Brand new clutch fork moves up and down

[iamtherealJayy]

So after having my throw out bearing changed to a longer one and a new clutch fork installed, the place told me that because of the ls swap my engine sits too high and that’s the reason for the 45° angle on the adjustment rod. I get home (finally after having to replace the ujoints in the driveshaft because they exploded on the way home) the truck started moving with the pedal on the floor again. After several hours to calm down and further investigation I notice the fork moves up and down just like the old one, just not as much movement as old one. When I press the pedal down the fork pushes down and the whole adjustment changes. I know I’m missing springs somewhere in the fork adjustment area but I don’t know where to get these springs. I have one spring that has a short stack of coils on one end to a long straight with a hook on the other end. I noticed it’s running from the fork to the motor mount and pulling downward, I bent the spring in the straight and pulled it over to the frame by the shock. I drove around the property but it still doesn’t feel right. The pedal is super hard to press and the fork still has movement. If you press it the whole way to the floor about an inch up has a bind? or something similar where it clicks down. I also noticed there’s 3 washers between the zbar and the new adjustment rod, like it’s being spaced out a little bit.

 

[rusted nuts]

So after having my throw out bearing changed to a longer one and a new clutch fork installed, the place told me that because of the ls swap my engine sits too high and that’s the reason for the 45° angle on the adjustment rod. I get home (finally after having to replace the ujoints in the driveshaft because they exploded on the way home) the truck started moving with the pedal on the floor again. After several hours to calm down and further investigation I notice the fork moves up and down just like the old one, just not as much movement as old one. When I press the pedal down the fork pushes down and the whole adjustment changes. I know I’m missing springs somewhere in the fork adjustment area but I don’t know where to get these springs. I have one spring that has a short stack of coils on one end to a long straight with a hook on the other end. I noticed it’s running from the fork to the motor mount and pulling downward, I bent the spring in the straight and pulled it over to the frame by the shock. I drove around the property but it still doesn’t feel right. The pedal is super hard to preWrong partsnoticed there’s 3 washers between the zbar and the new adjustment rod, like it’s being spaced out a little bit.

..

 

[iamtherealJayy]

How so? Every bit of what was replaced was direct replacements from LMC for a 78 k10.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Here’s pics

 

[iamtherealJayy]

As you can see in the photo the fork keeps coming off the stud and it rotates around and each position of the fork makes a different adjustment. Can I use a screwdriver and push the retainer tighter to the fork to hold it? Also pedal has no free play after it returns, I have to pull it up to same height as the brake pedal. All the linkage inside the cab has been greased and with the adjustment rod removed the pedal moves freely to the floor and back up by hand.

 

[rusted nuts]

As you can see in the photo the fork keeps coming off the stud and it rotates around and each position of the fork makes a different adjustment. Can I use a screwdriver and push the retainer tighter to the fork to hold it? Also pedal has no free play after it returns, I have to pull it up to same height as the brake pedal. All the linkage inside the cab has been greased and with the adjustment rod removed the pedal moves freely to the floor and back up by hand.

I done know who installed the parts for You but don't go back to them ,..As far as throw out arm moving up and down they will do that if not adj right. Also people that worked on Your Truck should never have put that driveshaft back in ther with bad joints IF that is even what was wrong IMO I don't think they ever tighten it up..

 

[iamtherealJayy]

In all fairness I’m not blaming them for the ujoint. It was the rear ujoint at the axle that broke. They removed the driveshaft from the tcase directly. I had the driveshafts pulled before I gave up and decided to pay someone else to do it so I’ll take the blame for the ujoint I must not have gotten it tightened down enough. How do I go about adjusting it right? I measured currently I have 1-7/8” of free play but the pedal doesn’t return that amount, that’s how far I can pull it up and push it down before it disengaged the clutch. I measured with a 16” level against the firewall and measured on the pedal arm going to the bracket. It’s currently driveable but it needs some sort of tweaking, I rearranged the washers to 2 on the adjustment rod side and one on the clip side it’s pretty straight with the fork now, but still angles down as it’s pressed. I guess they stole my little spring for the return on clutch pedal I finally found a photo of how it goes on but I can’t find the spring to save my life. Is there a specific spring and location for the clutch fork? I’ve got mine hooked on the bottom of the fork and running to the frame beside the shock. It’s better now than when it was hooked to the motor mount, that pulled it downwards as it returned then it got really wonky.

 

[rusted nuts]

In all fairness I’m not blaming them for the ujoint. It was the rear ujoint at the axle that broke. They removed the driveshaft from the tcase directly. I had the driveshafts pulled before I gave up and decided to pay someone else to do it so I’ll take the blame for the ujoint I must not have gotten it tightened down enough. How do I go about adjusting it right? I measured currently I have 1-7/8” of free play but the pedal doesn’t return that amount, that’s how far I can pull it up and push it down before it disengaged the clutch. I measured with a 16” level against the firewall and measured on the pedal arm going to the bracket. It’s currently driveable but it needs some sort of tweaking, I rearranged the washers to 2 on the adjustment rod side and one on the clip side it’s pretty straight with the fork now, but still angles down as it’s pressed. I guess they stole my little spring for the return on clutch pedal I finally found a photo of how it goes on but I can’t find the spring to save my life. Is there a specific spring and location for the clutch fork? I’ve got mine hooked on the bottom of the fork and running to the frame beside the shock. It’s better now than when it was hooked to the motor mount, that pulled it downwards as it returned then it got really wonky.

When I adj them I just measure from the rubber part of the pedal to edge of dash and adj for 1/2 Inch of free play But I don't think You have the right parts either it will never work right till adj rod is in a straight line.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

My pedal doesn’t have rubber on it? There’s a rubber stop by the steering column but it’s not easily visible. The rod is straight with the fork pushed upwards, I don’t know what’s got the fork going downwards at the angle, but with the pedal up and clutch fork pushed up the adjustment rod is near level.

 

[rusted nuts]

My pedal doesn’t have rubber on it? There’s a rubber stop by the steering column but it’s not easily visible. The rod is straight with the fork pushed upwards, I don’t know what’s got the fork going downwards at the angle, but with the pedal up and clutch fork pushed up the adjustment rod is near level.

Measure from where you put your foot on it to push it in.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Up to the bottom of the dash? And push it until there’s resistance? I can do that in the morning before work.