Botched crank shaft install

[Ypsik10]

Just came from machine shop going to bring a bearing in tomorrow so they can mic it and make sure they are the 20 that they are labeled ..

 

[Swims350]

if that checks out then it makes me wonder if they gave you back your crankor a different one. Either way if it checks out and is supposed to be right, the only way I see this working in a line hone/bore to make sure it's all straight and true.

 

[Ypsik10]

Just came from machine shop they are going to mic bearings tomorrow and see if they are 20 under as they claim.. Sorts looking like the bearing are labeled wrong I will keep you all posted thanks so much for all your help!

 

[yevgenievich]

You will know what is going on after measuring. It is possible they gave back the wrong crank

 

[Ypsik10]

That's not even close to fitting! Something major is wrong here. Like trying to put a large 2.45" journal crank in a 2.30" journal block. Or a 2.65" journal crank in a 2.45" block. Gotta do some measuring for sure.

Did this exact same crank once fit in that block?

Yes so long as they gave me same crank back I bought it as a shortblock

 

[1973c10]

Just came from machine shop they are going to mic bearings tomorrow and see if they are 20 under as they claim.. Sorts looking like the bearing are labeled wrong I will keep you all posted thanks so much for all your help!

it wouldn't be the first time that bearing have been labeled wrong
or the wrong crank got sent back with the block .
take the crank with you and have them double check it to

 

[Ypsik10]

Ok will do!

 

[crazy4offroad]

First thing I thought was #1 on the crank had not been turned. At 0.020" the bearing will fit outside the block, it's not much for the bearing to spring out that little bit, but in the block it is a big difference. No way to tell without a caliper micrometer. The digital ones are cheap at Harbor Freight. Once the machine shop gets it figured out grab some plasti-gauge and check every crank and rod bearing for oil clearance. Dry the back of the bearing and block/caps before installing and then oil them on the crank-riding surfaces. When me and dad built mine we mic'ed everything before assembly using snap gauges, caliper micrometers and dial indicators. It is definitely something you dont want to just throw together.

 

[Rusty Nail]

I'd throw that sumbitch in the trash can and not look back.

 

[MikeB]

Bearing fits crank fine wen not in block. Wen inserted in the very clean block and properly seated it still has a gap

I think we're missing something very basic here.

Who is the bearing manufacturer and what is the part number?

What is the block casting number? It's on the "ledge" behind #7 cylinder.

What is the casting number on the crankshaft?

 

[1973c10]

Let's see what the machine shop says before we start throwing
things in the trash it went in to the shop as a short block
with a rotating assembly that wasn't stuck and if all they
did was turn the crank 20 under and now it don't fit
my guess is ether he got wrong crank back or they didn't
turn the first journal the same maybe 02 instead of 20 under
or wrong bearings

 

[Ypsik10]

Just got back from the machine shop they farm out there crank turning they have been using same people for 40 + years and miss labelled the crank mains are 10 rods are 20 not 20/20 as labeled they were very apologetic for the mistake and cleaned polished crank up on the spot and gave me a new free set of clevite 77 bearing..

 

[Ypsik10]

Ps wen I plasti-gauge do I just oil the bearing on the part ware the crankshaft is touching and leave the cap side dry? Plastic gauge available at local auto parts store?

 

[Swims350]

sorry read it wrong

 

[Swims350]

and NO oil to plastigauge. you lay one tiny piece of wax down on top put on the cap, torque to spec, DO NOT turn, remove cap grab the gauge graph and see which matches the squished thickness, remember which way you lay it, because you want to measure the smashed width not the length you cut it to