Body repair panels

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Robmiami84

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I've been looking at C10 body panels. Can anyone tell me the difference between the "normal" and "premium" parts. Ive noted things like doors and fenders coming at two very different prices but nothing on the site lists the difference. Is the metal thinner than stock on the normal stuff? Is premium the only way to go? Also is one brand better than another? Or are they all the same?
 

Ricko1966

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I've been looking at C10 body panels. Can anyone tell me the difference between the "normal" and "premium" parts. Ive noted things like doors and fenders coming at two very different prices but nothing on the site lists the difference. Is the metal thinner than stock on the normal stuff? Is premium the only way to go? Also is one brand better than another? Or are they all the same?
My personal opinion,when possible find good used. My expierience has been factory panels are usually better than aftermarket. And no they are not all the same. Nor do they all come from the same place. That's one reason I prefer O.E. parts they are all they same,they all came from the same place,and are all original quality.
 

edgephoto

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I am restoring my GMC and can tell you that used is way better than repro. The body shop also concurs.

I needed rockers, cab corners, one door and one fender. Found used fender, NOS door and one NOS rocker. I bought one repro rocker and it was slightly different but worked.

I think LMC states on their website that premium is the same gauge metal as OE.
 

TotalyHucked

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Hey Robert, I work for AMD so I can shed some light. Generally, the "premium" panels were developed in recent years and feature newer, crisper tooling. The non-premium panels are usually what we refer to as "crash parts", or what's been available to bodyshops for the last 30+ years as cheap replacement parts. The crash parts are generally lighter gauge metal and more universal in hole placement/features so they'd cover more years.

If you look at our site, you'll notice we don't play the premium or non-premium game. If it's branded AMD, we developed it here in house in Georgia and it's a premium piece that matches OE as closely as possible. Contours, thickness, bodylines, holes, mounting points, etc. If it's an "X-Brand', then that's not something we had anything to do with the development of, we just source it from elsewhere, but we've evaluated it and decided it's a good piece. For squarebody trucks, we've just about developed everything you'd need ourselves.

That said, alot of people don't realize how much variation there was in original pieces. Contrary to Rick's statement, original pieces are not all the same and did not come from the same place. There were several foundries/stamping plants for the OE's and we have disassembled and evaluated enough original stuff to positively say, there's as much variation in original sheetmetal as there is aftermarket. I've personally fitted so many OE squarebody doors on OE cabs and seen how the same door fits 5 different cabs 5 different ways.

I say all that just so you're aware, you may have more adjustment to be done on a new panel that what you expect, because your truck may vary from the ones we developed our stuff off of. A good example is hoods. Lots of people buy a hood, slap it on the truck and are unhappy with the gaps. What they don't realize is, in many cases the fenders, hinges, and core support need to be loosened and adjusted along with the hood. Sometimes that even moves into adjusting the doors. Just like building a fresh drivetrain, all the pieces have to be adjusted to play nicely together.

Do your research and buy from whoever you like the best, I'm on this forum personally, not for AMD. But I can tell you we're a small company of legit car and truck guys and take pride in our work. I wouldn't come to bat for us if I didn't like and use our products personally.
 

edgephoto

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Thanks for clarifying. I did buy some other smaller sheet metal stuff and what I got from AMD fit with minimal tweaking. As was stated above, OEM replacement was not perfect either. There was even difference left to right on original stuff. My '87 has been in my family since '88 and the body guy was showing me slight difference side to side.

Remember these are mass produced vehicle. They are not precision but are "commercially acceptable". That is the term my OE uses to justify ever so slight variations.
 

Fat 454

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"What they don't realize is, in many cases the fenders, hinges, and core support need to be loosened and adjusted along with the hood. Sometimes that even moves into adjusting the doors. Just like building a fresh drivetrain, all the pieces have to be adjusted to play nicely together."

If you want nice panel gaps the above is essential. You also need to start with replacing ALL your body mounts. Everything is shimmed on the trucks, so you will need to start from the cab and work your way outwards.
If you look at the high $ hot rods, a huge part of the build has always been getting "perfect" panel gaps. This however includes potentially re-profiling, cutting, welding etc. etc. as well as just correct mounting. And if you are going that far, it would pay to get the best panels you can to start with, irrespective if they are OEM used, or "premium".
Depends how fussy you are, however "perfect fit" is a long way from "OEM" production line....
 

83Stepper

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Premium with some sites are a heavier gauge, close to what was offered in an OEM application. I've gotten some aftermarket repops and some oem sheet metal, both of which had to be worked into the vehicle. The right way of doing it is loosening all the bolts as mentioned previously. To get all the gaps right, it's a bit of a pain, but definitely worth doing it the right way. Bought some panels for my '77 C10 from AMD and was very happy with what I received. Both outer rockers and the drop-in floor were the right gauge and fit really nicely. With these old trucks, nothing is really plug and play.
 

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