Body mounts......

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Doppleganger

Full Access Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
12,677
Reaction score
58,789
Location
OH-MI: Just like it sounds
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
5.7
So my truck is a really clean left coast ride. Zero rust - everything **** and span. I go to see if the body mounts will break loose. Left front does but is stiff. I use a judicious amount of PB on it....it loosens about 3/16" and then stops. Will click loud....hoping its still loosening but seems more like that stupid idea of a tack welded nut has come loose and is spinning - dunno. The right front feels like it wants to be an asshat too.

I have it loose - is there a strategy here, such as cutting the bolt to free the cab from the frame? Seems it would be easier to deal with the cab off the truck and on its back. I hate the thought of cutting a perfect floor, then tack welding it back down - was thinking more of finding dead center of the bolt and drilling a hole (1" diameter?) to access the nut and also then to use a flat rubber grommet to close it.....like I have seen in other vehicles use for years. Something GM should have done for access to the nut.

You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
 

shiftpro

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2012
Posts
4,855
Reaction score
6,092
Location
BC Canada
First Name
shiftpro
Truck Year
73-87
Truck Model
1500, 2500, 3500
Engine Size
350, 383, 454, 496!
So my truck is a really clean left coast ride. Zero rust - everything **** and span. I go to see if the body mounts will break loose. Left front does but is stiff. I use a judicious amount of PB on it....it loosens about 3/16" and then stops. Will click loud....hoping its still loosening but seems more like that stupid idea of a tack welded nut has come loose and is spinning - dunno. The right front feels like it wants to be an asshat too.

I have it loose - is there a strategy here, such as cutting the bolt to free the cab from the frame? Seems it would be easier to deal with the cab off the truck and on its back. I hate the thought of cutting a perfect floor, then tack welding it back down - was thinking more of finding dead center of the bolt and drilling a hole (1" diameter?) to access the nut and also then to use a flat rubber grommet to close it.....like I have seen in other vehicles use for years. Something GM should have done for access to the nut.

You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach

Flame wrench bro... carefully blow the head of the bolt off. You might nick the big curvy washer but that's not a problem. Just be prepared to lift the cab higher than normal.
 

Frankenchevy

Proverbs 16:18
Joined
Jan 3, 2018
Posts
6,080
Reaction score
7,750
Location
USA
First Name
Jeremy
Truck Year
Square
Truck Model
CUCV
Engine Size
Small
A couple of mine made that noise when loosening them, I swore I was going to snap something. Turns out they were just chattering from sticking-releasing-sticking-releasing. I just kept shooting penetrating oil up there and praying. I used new bolts and copious amounts of anti-seize when I reinstalled knowing they’d likely be back out in the near future.
 

Ken B

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2019
Posts
1,191
Reaction score
1,455
Location
indiana
First Name
ken
Truck Year
81
Truck Model
c10
Engine Size
250
PB Blaster can after can..spray it work the bolt as far as it will got . spray more walk away. I finally got them all out. after 39 years they all came out. Just waiting on new mounts that are backordered from LMC
 

legopnuematic

Licensed Junk Dealer
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2016
Posts
2,466
Reaction score
6,299
Location
MO
First Name
Spencer
Truck Year
1971, 1̶9̶7̶4, 1976, 1979,1̶9̶8̶5, 2002
Truck Model
Dart Swinger, Sierra 10, C10 Cheyenne, C10 Big Ten, Silverado 10, Ram 2500
Engine Size
225/6, 350 c.i., 350 c.i., 5.9l Cummins
On the 85 cab I sold, (St Louis built, and lived in Saint Louis, Missouri winters) I didn't spray anything on them, or anything special. Put the socket on the 1/2 impact and let it rip, all 4 came out without issue. 1 Bolt was about rusted in 2 aswell.

most of the time the click sound is the bolt going from being stuck to not stuck. You'll know when the caged nut breaks.
 

Scott91370

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2018
Posts
993
Reaction score
1,015
Location
Burleson, Tx
First Name
Scott
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
Sierra1500
Engine Size
350
Mine was exactly like this - no rust, under side of the truck still looks new and bolts were a pita to get out. There was A LOT of blue lock tight holding them in place. I used a 36" breaker bar to get them out. Even if you cut them you'll still have to get the stud out and you won't have a bolt head to do it with. KEEP TWISTING.
 

Matt69olds

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2018
Posts
2,447
Reaction score
3,816
Location
Central Indiana
First Name
Matt
Truck Year
81
Truck Model
GMC 1/2 ton
Engine Size
455 Olds
Drill a tiny hole in the floor right above the body mount. Spray lots of PB blaster or your rust penetrate of choice into the hole. Wait a few days, spray again. When you think you have sprayed enough, spray some more and let it soak.

Yes, I know it sucks drilling a hole in pristine floors, but if the cage nut breaks loose, your going to need a much bigger hole to fix it.
 

AuroraGirl

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2019
Posts
9,693
Reaction score
6,867
Location
Northern Wisconsin
First Name
Taylor
Truck Year
1978, 1980
Truck Model
K10, K25
Engine Size
400(?), 350
A couple of mine made that noise when loosening them, I swore I was going to snap something. Turns out they were just chattering from sticking-releasing-sticking-releasing. I just kept shooting penetrating oil up there and praying. I used new bolts and copious amounts of anti-seize when I reinstalled knowing they’d likely be back out in the near future.
i also had a engine cradle mount of similar design not look rusty that the only thing that rusted was the bolt most of the way up. it snapped off in the captive nut with a cm sticking out in a little nub. same sounds.

But if its that bad twisting it off wasnt gonna do him more worse than not twisting. and his truck isnt from rust belt
 

PrairieDrifter

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Posts
3,844
Reaction score
5,632
Location
North Dakota
First Name
Mason
Truck Year
84,79,77,76,70,48
Truck Model
Suburban k10, bonanza k10, k30, k20, c10, gmc 1/2ton
Engine Size
350, 350, 350, 350, 350, 350
When I did mine on my suburban I had a couple that did the exact same thing, it's just the tension and rust breaking free, I soaked mine through access holes in the floor support. I did end up having to make a hole in the floor for one of em, it was most likely as stuck if not more than yours is.

Don't cut it until you've got no bolt head left to work with, otherwise you'll have to weld some nuts on what's left and keep at it. I used I think a 48 inch 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and I think I even needed a cheater pipe lol
 

Frankenchevy

Proverbs 16:18
Joined
Jan 3, 2018
Posts
6,080
Reaction score
7,750
Location
USA
First Name
Jeremy
Truck Year
Square
Truck Model
CUCV
Engine Size
Small
When I did mine on my suburban I had a couple that did the exact same thing, it's just the tension and rust breaking free, I soaked mine through access holes in the floor support. I did end up having to make a hole in the floor for one of em, it was most likely as stuck if not more than yours is.

Don't cut it until you've got no bolt head left to work with, otherwise you'll have to weld some nuts on what's left and keep at it. I used I think a 48 inch 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and I think I even needed a cheater pipe lol
Dang, that’s stuck...

@Doppleganger , if yours are that stuck, take anything that I said with the context that mine came out with a standard length 1/2” drive craftsman ratchet.
 

Bextreme04

Full Access Member
Joined
May 13, 2019
Posts
4,439
Reaction score
5,574
Location
Oregon
First Name
Eric
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
K25
Engine Size
350-4bbl
When I did mine on my suburban I had a couple that did the exact same thing, it's just the tension and rust breaking free, I soaked mine through access holes in the floor support. I did end up having to make a hole in the floor for one of em, it was most likely as stuck if not more than yours is.

Don't cut it until you've got no bolt head left to work with, otherwise you'll have to weld some nuts on what's left and keep at it. I used I think a 48 inch 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and I think I even needed a cheater pipe lol

I agree with this.. mine were rusty, muddy, and really stuck. Lots of PB blaster and a 1/2" breaker bar with a cheater pipe. They are huge bolts... you most likely can't get enough torque on them to shear the bolt.
 

Doppleganger

Full Access Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
12,677
Reaction score
58,789
Location
OH-MI: Just like it sounds
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
5.7
I do think its still turning (caged nut is holding), but is so tight its all I can do to turn it with a breaker + cheater bar. I have a 1300 ft lb (1400 blows per minute) Aircat 1150 air impact that has been ripping 3/4 bolts off at will that wont budge this one. UFB. I've been soaking the bolts around the bushings from underneath - the small hole above the nut sounds like a great idea too - could still plug it with a grommet after I'm done.

Once they're out, I'll run a tap through it then a new bolt bathed in anti-seize.
 

PrairieDrifter

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Posts
3,844
Reaction score
5,632
Location
North Dakota
First Name
Mason
Truck Year
84,79,77,76,70,48
Truck Model
Suburban k10, bonanza k10, k30, k20, c10, gmc 1/2ton
Engine Size
350, 350, 350, 350, 350, 350
I do think its still turning (caged nut is holding), but is so tight its all I can do to turn it with a breaker + cheater bar. I have a 1300 ft lb (1400 blows per minute) Aircat 1150 air impact that has been ripping 3/4 bolts off at will that wont budge this one. UFB. I've been soaking the bolts around the bushings from underneath - the small hole above the nut sounds like a great idea too - could still plug it with a grommet after I'm done.

Once they're out, I'll run a tap through it then a new bolt bathed in anti-seize.
Try and jack the cab up slightly so you can see the bolt through the bushing turning or not. The one bad one I had would only move a 1/16 of a turn and would pop really loud like that with pretty much all of my force, I got the shakes on a couple of pulls lol, you know when you torque on something so hard you start "shaking". My built in torque wrench says it was all of 200-250 ft lbs of torque.

But I did end up getting it out, and the new one went in with no issues. Keep at her!
 

Scott91370

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2018
Posts
993
Reaction score
1,015
Location
Burleson, Tx
First Name
Scott
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
Sierra1500
Engine Size
350
So...where ya at one this? Just curious of the bolts survived...
 

Doppleganger

Full Access Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
12,677
Reaction score
58,789
Location
OH-MI: Just like it sounds
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
5.7
Been working on the DD......steering rack leaked, so I bought a NEW (not reman) from Rock only to have it leak worse. Got a good used one that works just fine. Car is being aligned and the rack is on its way back....so back to the saga 'how the bolt turns' later today. :hat:
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,103
Posts
949,405
Members
36,203
Latest member
Rolf
Top