Bilstein Shocks Bushing/Sleeve Question

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Mr Stay Puft

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Mine is that other mount to.
Interesting. You have the 2" custom lift from ORD too. Is your shock the 33-185590 with 8.13" of travel? I can't quite read it on the photo.
 

bucket

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When I ordered the shocks online there was nowhere to specify on the website during purchase between dual and single front shocks. The only options were whether you wanted to get their extended front shock mounts (and I assume longer shocks to accompany them), which I didn't get. At the time I didn't realize that not all 4X4 trucks had the dual shocks. When I received the shocks I emailed to ask why I only received 1 set of 33-185590 Bilstein shocks (8.13" travel) front shocks and that I needed 4 for my truck. They said you only need 1 set with modern tech and that it should be mounted on the further forward (auxiliary) location, as it's more vertical, and inside the lower mount. I emailed back after I installed them and included pictures of the install. I said it seemed like the angle was wrong as neither of the stock shocks were mounted with this configuration of mount locations. They said it was ok and that the bushings can take a decent amount of deflection. For the record, I'm not trying to speak negatively of ORD as they are clearly more versed in off-road and these trucks than I am. This truck will be my first foray into off-road adventures, it just didn't look right to me and I was curious if other installs looked like this as this seems like a very popular shock and lift kit.

I'd say that they are correct on all counts, including the forward mount location being more effective. However, you will want to verify those shocks are long enough for full droop, when mounted in that location. If they run out of travel, you will surely ruin the shocks.

Without the bushing sleeves, just mount them the way SquareRoot described and it will be fine.
 

Mr Stay Puft

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I'd say that they are correct on all counts, including the forward mount location being more effective. However, you will want to verify those shocks are long enough for full droop, when mounted in that location. If they run out of travel, you will surely ruin the shocks.

Without the bushing sleeves, just mount them the way SquareRoot described and it will be fine.
Thanks bucket, really appreciate the verification. What’s the best way to verify the shock stroke is adequate? Should I unbolt the shock and stabilizer, jack up the frame, then let the wheel just droop?
 

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Thanks bucket, really appreciate the verification. What’s the best way to verify the shock stroke is adequate? Should I unbolt the shock and stabilizer, jack up the frame, then let the wheel just droop?

If you don't have a forklift or other large equipment to use, I'd do this:

Unbolt the sway bar on one side.
Remove both lower shock bolts.
Jack up one side of the axle until the opposite side starts to lift off the ground.
Slide jack stands, blocks of wood or something under the truck for safety.
Probably chock the rear wheels too.
Then see if the shocks can still be installed on each side, with some room to spare.
 

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I believe mine are those shocks. I didn’t get the other ones, I think they were the king travel ones.
 

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Well I correct myself. Looks like my shocks are 33-185606
 

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Well I correct myself. Looks like my shocks are 33-185606
Yours appear to be about an 1” longer than mine with about 1/2” more travel. I am not sure I’ll have time this weekend with all the kids stuff we have to do, but I will report back after I test the suspension travel per Bucket’s advice.
 

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If you don't have a forklift or other large equipment to use, I'd do this:

Unbolt the sway bar on one side.
Remove both lower shock bolts.
Jack up one side of the axle until the opposite side starts to lift off the ground.
Slide jack stands, blocks of wood or something under the truck for safety.
Probably chock the rear wheels too.
Then see if the shocks can still be installed on each side, with some room to spare.
Or just measure eye to eye length at rest. Measure up travel to bottoming out on the bump stop as a min length and call that length the approx droop to get a max length. That’ll give you an absolute min and rough max length.
What you’ll find is there will only be 1 r 2 lengths that come close to those 2 numbers. Then decide whether you want them to be a little short or long on the extension or compression.
You’ll only have a couple choices and taking the extreme on droop, no sway bar, like you’re on a RTI ramp will likely push the numbers the wrong way.
Remember, you’re not building a rock buggy. Only so many options without moving mounts to get an extra long travel shock in there.
It’s a normal pickup with a “normal” suspension.
No tools or physical work needed to figure shock length.
Then once you figure out what you think they should be look at the Skyjacker chart. It’s comprehensive and easy to read and a good gut check as their shock measurements match up well for theoretical lift kit heights.
Plus there’s some other variabilities, like are your springs soft or stiff, are the bump stops really extended enough or at all, are you going to work and load the bed to max cap where the truck is sitting on bump stops.
Again, the lengths of shocks you can get are not infinitely variable. You’ll have only one or 2 choices that are within the range of length and travel that you need.
 

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And the Bilsteins are WAY too much work unless you’re just flat ass dead set on them.
If you haven’t tried to remove the sleeves or bushings out of their new shocks you wouldn’t understand. I tried with a press and a vise. I could have got them out but I’d have been quite likely boogering up the shock eyelets. They are IN there TIGHT. More so than other shocks especially when new and the rubber bushings haven’t been worked by being used for a while.
JMO. It’s not impossible but IMO, nowhere worth the effort required.
Also consider, like I did, is this a vehicle you’ll put 100k miles on in the next 5 years and actually realize the longevity of Bilsteins? Most of our old trucks aren’t. They’re either garage queens or local low mile drivers.
Of course there are some exceptions like @SirRobyn0 who drives the wheels off his beauty of a truck.
 

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And the Bilsteins are WAY too much work unless you’re just flat ass dead set on them.
If you haven’t tried to remove the sleeves or bushings out of their new shocks you wouldn’t understand. I tried with a press and a vise. I could have got them out but I’d have been quite likely boogering up the shock eyelets. They are IN there TIGHT. More so than other shocks especially when new and the rubber bushings haven’t been worked by being used for a while.
JMO. It’s not impossible but IMO, nowhere worth the effort required.
Also consider, like I did, is this a vehicle you’ll put 100k miles on in the next 5 years and actually realize the longevity of Bilsteins? Most of our old trucks aren’t. They’re either garage queens or local low mile drivers.
Of course there are some exceptions like @SirRobyn0 who drives the wheels off his beauty of a truck.
I have not read though the entire thread so I'm not really sure of all the details, but I'm going to write a little and maybe someone will find use in it. @Grit dog sorry about taking so long to see the tags, my power went out last night at 1AM and just came back on around 5.

My opinion on Bilstein as a mechanic, is not good I agree they are not worth the work, and frankly I don't think they are shock that will last.

Thanks, she not restored but I try to keep her up. Brought home a load of gravel Friday and the gravel yard is simply dreadfullly muddy so she's getting a bath tomorrow. I've thought about what you said a while back, and I kind of forget, most of the folks here don't drive their squares as much as I do and I'm sure being a mechanic helps me in that department. But that's what these truck were built to do, run down everyday and haul a load when needed. I wouldn't hesitate to take my truck on a multiple state trip.
 

Mr Stay Puft

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@Grit dog thanks man. I measured the eye to eye sitting on the ground and they are 20.5". The shocks have a max length of 21.63" per Bilstein's website. I've emailed ORD to see what's up. I am thinking I either need longer shocks or to install them in the shorter location (which would also make the bushing sit more neutral). I measure 3.5" from the top of the spring mounting plate to the bump stop. And yes the bushing are very tight. I also installed the Bilstein steering stabilizer and had to swap bushings. I needed a large hydraulic press at work and it was no joke.

To your point on the Bilsteins, you're probably right. It's not a daily commuter for me but I do plan on taking this on more and more family camping trips and slowly expanding my off road adventures. As I've been fixing up the truck I have leaned towards getting whatever is the general consensus for the better and often more expensive option as I would rather do things once and do it right. I figured the shocks made a difference but it's probably more about the springs. We will see what ORD says, but I might end up going your route....I'm still learning, this forum has been amazing.
 
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^Bilstein site/ORD have the lengths screwed up especially for lifted trucks.
I ordered a set of Bilsteins thinking I didn’t need to do home work. For a 3-4” lift iirc. They were way too short.
Again, love Bilsteins for their longevity.
But at double the price of decent gas shocks, they don’t make sense unless you are wanting 100k miles out of a shock. Imo.
 

Mr Stay Puft

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ORD has now said the shock is supposed to go in the aft upper mount. Which is different from what they told me before. I will switch it tonight. Just wanted to keep that info on here in case anyone else finds themselves with these questions.
 

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Bilstein 33-185590 front stock position
21.5” ext
13.5 collapsed
8.1” travel
255/70 valving

Bilstein 33-230320 front AUX position
24.35” ext
15” collapsed
9 1/4” trav
360/80 valving
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The Ranchos were on the Jimmy when I purchased it. was way to stiff for me. The photo is for the stock set up. When you remove the Stock position shock and use the Aux more vertical longer travel positon you need to keep the bottom mount inboard like the 2nd photo.
 
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89GMCJimmy

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"I measured the eye to eye sitting on the ground and they are 20.5""
Is this stock or aux position? More vertical aux position will have longer travel and be more effective.
Mine sits at 21" and ive tried both positions with 33-230320 and 33-185606 the valving is different as well as the overall length and travel
 
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