Best Tie Rods Ends & Front Suspension parts?

[82Diesel]

Finally gonna get my 1982 Chevrolet K10 into the shop for this winter, Going to Ground-up Restore the Frame, Bodywork, etc... The engine is 95% Completed already... (Yes I will put photo's up) Once it's in the garage I will start a thread in the "Under Construction" section of the Forums So I can document it all.

I am wanting to stay Close to Original as possible on Suspension parts, Brakes, Tie Rods, etc... Brakes I most likely will go with Wagner.
Does GM still make DELPHI Parts for these trucks? Made in USA Made would be nice Cannot stand the Taiwan/Chinese Crap Does NOT Last Although Extremely cheap.

Thanks.

 

[MrMarty51]

Rock Auto has a pretty good supply of components and a variety of brands. PLUS, they are a sponsor of this forum and they do list a nice discount code every so often, code lasts until they post a new code.

 

[yevgenievich]

I had decent luck with spicer parts so far.

 

[legopnuematic]

Moog problem solver is made in the USA. Using them for all the steering parts on my 79

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[75gmck25]

I bought the front end parts for my K25 from Rock Auto, since even with shipping they were cheaper than local. I also picked Moog for most of the parts, and then later read posts about folks having issues with Moog. Not sure I made the best choice, but it works fine.

For changing ball joints you may need a couple extra items. The ball joints come with a replacement top bushing and you need a ball joint spanner socket like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRDEG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to remove and reinstall the top bushings. I got it on Amazon since I could not find it locally. Also, if you unbolt the steering arm from the hub you are supposed to reinstall it with new locking nuts. The locking nuts seemed to be a standard size until I looked for them at the auto parts stores (none had them), and I finally found them at Ace Hardware. I already had the large socket needed to remove the 4WD hub. All the other tools I borrowed from Autozone.

When you have the tie rods disconnected there is a process for adjusting the free play in the steering box. With the rods disconnected from the box, you tighten down the box adjustment until it takes only about 10-14 inch lbs to turn the steering wheel with a socket on the nut holding the steering wheel. You need to check it through the full range from left to right, since it varies as you turn the wheel. You want to take out free play, but do not want the box to bind at any point.

Bruce

 

[TubeTruck]

I would buy MOOG. They are best for parts store suspension and hold up really well. They are all I use.

 

[MrMarty51]

The 14 inch pounds mentioned in the above post, that would be the required torque when going over the center of the steering gear, after going over center the torque required to turn the nut will decrease.

 

[82Diesel]

I had decent luck with spicer parts so far.

Spicer parts? Interesting, Reminds me a bit of Tabco... well for body parts at least.

 

[82Diesel]

I would buy MOOG. They are best for parts store suspension and hold up really well. They are all I use.

I did a little "Pre-Research" Beforehand and That's what I've come across most people are using MOOG B/c To my understanding they are like Original but hold up even better. Though some have said they are "Ridiculous" as to price.

What's your opinion on that?

 

[82Diesel]

I bought the front end parts for my K25 from Rock Auto, since even with shipping they were cheaper than local. I also picked Moog for most of the parts, and then later read posts about folks having issues with Moog. Not sure I made the best choice, but it works fine.

For changing ball joints you may need a couple extra items. The ball joints come with a replacement top bushing and you need a ball joint spanner socket like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRDEG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to remove and reinstall the top bushings. I got it on Amazon since I could not find it locally. Also, if you unbolt the steering arm from the hub you are supposed to reinstall it with new locking nuts. The locking nuts seemed to be a standard size until I looked for them at the auto parts stores (none had them), and I finally found them at Ace Hardware. I already had the large socket needed to remove the 4WD hub. All the other tools I borrowed from Autozone.

When you have the tie rods disconnected there is a process for adjusting the free play in the steering box. With the rods disconnected from the box, you tighten down the box adjustment until it takes only about 10-14 inch lbs to turn the steering wheel with a socket on the nut holding the steering wheel. You need to check it through the full range from left to right, since it varies as you turn the wheel. You want to take out free play, but do not want the box to bind at any point.

Bruce

Thanks Bruce, I'll keep that in-mind. Ofc My Father whose Both Owned & Restored many many many of these trucks will be helping me do the Suspension My only problem is I want to stay Original as Possible with parts and do it the Costly & Proper way... I am not a man of "Cheap" Under-Quality parts.

 

[TubeTruck]

I did a little "Pre-Research" Beforehand and That's what I've come across most people are using MOOG B/c To my understanding they are like Original but hold up even better. Though some have said they are "Ridiculous" as to price.

What's your opinion on that?

They are a little ridiculous on their prices. Some about double the price of their competitors. But honestly I'd pay for quality over quantity.

 

[82Diesel]

They are a little ridiculous on their prices. Some about double the price of their competitors. But honestly I'd pay for quality over quantity.

Right on. That seems to be the thing, People have just "Accepted" Today's Products vs "Us" Guys who refuse I guess you could say to use That Really Crap Aftermarket Material & want the best of the best.

 

[hunters628]

I agree on using moog. Seems to be the best we can get without going to some extreme off roading parts.

 

[82Diesel]

Moog problem solver is made in the USA. Using them for all the steering parts on my 79

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I have a question about Bushings and Rubber Mounts... For throughout the frame, Does anyone still remake Rubber ones? Like on the Spring hangers I will absolutely will NOT go with Polyurethane or that crap.

 

[MikeB]

I did a little "Pre-Research" Beforehand and That's what I've come across most people are using MOOG B/c To my understanding they are like Original but hold up even better. Though some have said they are "Ridiculous" as to price.

What's your opinion on that?

I have used nothing but Moog suspension and steering parts for 25+ years on several cars and trucks, except for some NOS Federal Mogul parts that I found at Autozone in dirty old boxes. Before that I had used some cheapie parts from a couple vendors with problems such as creaking ball joints, tie rod ends that would not take grease, and rubber dust boots that cracked after a few years (or even months). In contrast, the Moog parts I installed on a 69 C10 8-10 years ago still work well and none of the dust boots are cracked.

Best I can tell, the cheap crap from China started showing up in the early 90s. And today they even use part numbers similar or identical to Moog's, leading some to believe they are re-branded Moog parts. There may be some cases where that's true, but certainly not if the part costs 50%-75% less!

Believe me, you don't want to go through all the work of installing cheap no-name parts, and then have to spend more money and time to do it right later.

Check out Rock Auto for very good prices on Moog.