Best rear locker/ best price?

[brianhannon]

Hey all,

Looking into buying a locker. Tired of the open rear, I've got a built 383 and I need the power to the pavement! 3.42 10 bolt/ TH350.

 

[CSFJ]

Are you going to be using a different axle, or sticking with the 10 bolt? The reason I ask, is an engine like a 383, and lots of traction on a 10 bolt is likely to result in broken parts of axle when it hooks.

 

[brianhannon]

Are you going to be using a different axle, or sticking with the 10 bolt? The reason I ask, is an engine like a 383, and lots of traction on a 10 bolt is likely to result in broken parts of axle when it hooks.

I was planning on using the same rear. I'm not one to hammer into it too hard but I'd like both wheels to be there on the occasion that I do

 

[CSFJ]

Well, the Detroit Locker is hard to beat, but I almost would recommend one of the lunchbox lockers from a company like Loc-Rite or such. Those should drop into the existing open carrier, so you won't be into it for setting up a new ring and pinion, and they usually run around $300. I'd go that way first, and make sure you'll be able to keep from breaking anything before you spend a lot right away.

 

[brianhannon]

Thanks for the advice!

 

[68post]

Detroit TrueTrac, it is a all gear bias-sensing limited slip.
Smooth as an open diff and strong as all their products. Lockers are harsh On-road and will push you straight when its slick unless you let off the gas ( rain , snow, or ice).
There are different needs for each scenario , and for the street a clutch type posi or limited slip works best.

I'd use a support cover on your ten bolt and not worry about anything else on it. They are much stronger than most give them credit for.
An aftermarket diff with an upgrade to 30 spline aftermarket axles and they are as strong as a 12 bolt w/aftermarket axles. Stock they have the same pinion shaft diameter as a car 12 bolt - which is larger than a truck 12 bolt. I wouldn't be afraid of a set of slicks and high rpm dragstrip launchs afterwards !

.02 cents w/experience.

 

[marks86]

get rid of the 10bolt.

 

[bucket]

Detroit TrueTrac, it is a all gear bias-sensing limited slip.
Smooth as an open diff and strong as all their products. Lockers are harsh On-road and will push you straight when its slick unless you let off the gas ( rain , snow, or ice).
There are different needs for each scenario , and for the street a clutch type posi or limited slip works best.

I'd use a support cover on your ten bolt and not worry about anything else on it. They are much stronger than most give them credit for.
An aftermarket diff with an upgrade to 30 spline aftermarket axles and they are as strong as a 12 bolt w/aftermarket axles. Stock they have the same pinion shaft diameter as a car 12 bolt - which is larger than a truck 12 bolt. I wouldn't be afraid of a set of slicks and high rpm dragstrip launchs afterwards !

.02 cents w/experience.

Exactly. Plus the Truetrac gets rid of the factory carrier which is a weak point.

 

[bucket]

get rid of the 10bolt.

There's NOTHING wrong with an 8.5 10 bolt for street/racing use. The common 4x4 logic really doesn't apply here, and neither does the old muscle car era 10bolt/12bolt thing. The 8.5 10 bolt is a much stronger unit than the old 8.2 10 bolt. The 8.5 is basically what put the old car style 12 bolt out of production.

 

[Rusty Nail]

I have beat the living snot out of the stock 8.5 in my SS for almost twenty years and never had trouble from it once on street tires.
On ten inch slicks, hooking HARD - (fronts up) - I have spun the hub off of two axle shafts and turned the solid u-joint out of the pinion... All it does is beg for more.

I wouldn't be scared to sling mud with an 8.5.