Bed Panels: Welded or Bolted?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Doppleganger

Full Access Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
12,705
Reaction score
58,937
Location
OH-MI: Just like it sounds
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
5.7
Stupid question of the day: what parts of the beds are welded and what parts are bolted together? I ask because my bed, although rust free, at one time had a serious 5th wheel in it. Must have a dozen almost laser like 3/4" holes drilled in it. I used a tarp when I got a load of dirt and even that didn't stop it from sifting out. The cost and time to weld them all shut would probably be absurd. Looks like a lot of seam sealer around the wheel wells, and actual bolts on the front of the bed, so cant tell whats welded and whats bolted. If the floor can be neatly replaced, I'd almost consider it.

TIA
 

DanMcG

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2014
Posts
1,076
Reaction score
1,891
Location
Central NY
First Name
Dan
Truck Year
1978 1985
Truck Model
k10 k10
Engine Size
400 350
The bed bolts together. The bed sides inner and outer panels are welded together then bolt to the floor and the front panel. There are two small welds where the rear stake pocket meets the floor easy to cut with a grinder.

You must be registered for see images attach


Looks like another weld on the leg down, behind the tailgate trunion
 
Last edited:

Doppleganger

Full Access Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
12,705
Reaction score
58,937
Location
OH-MI: Just like it sounds
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
5.7
Exactly what I needed to know. THANKS!

So does the front and sides have to come off to remove/replace the floor? I'm guessing yes as I cant picture underneath the floor where they would bolt to.

I'm going to have the bed off for paint, tanks, etc....seems like a good time to do it if it comes to that.
 
Last edited:

bucket

Super Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
30,439
Reaction score
28,345
Location
Usually not in Ohio
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
'77, '78, '79, '84, '88
Truck Model
K5 thru K30
Engine Size
350-454
I think it would be much easier to just disassemble the whole thing. The seam sealer can be tough to break free when removing the individual pieces from the floor, it may be near impossible to get the floor loose from everything all at once.
 

Doppleganger

Full Access Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
12,705
Reaction score
58,937
Location
OH-MI: Just like it sounds
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
5.7
Only thing I worried about was any alignment issues, but I suppose it couldn't move that much. Dunno. My old floor is better than 75% of any I see around here (newer or old). Cant see scrapping it. lol

Would be a great time to clean and seal all the sheet metal edges too.

Thanks fellas.
 

Jrgunn5150

Questionable methods
Joined
Jan 11, 2016
Posts
2,739
Reaction score
1,412
Location
Ionia Mi
First Name
J.R.
Truck Year
1979
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
6.slow
In the past when I've done this, I built a little cart, and used square tube tacked across the bed rails to square everything, then locked the bolts and tacked the corners.
 

Swims350

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2010
Posts
4,352
Reaction score
812
Location
Logan WV
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
none
I have personally dismantled 2 short fleetsides and it's simple.

You have bolts all along the lower sides, and along the wheel house inside, from under the truck those unbolt and then those spot welds are in back to set the gaps for the tailgate and keep them from moving in. You'll find back there in bottom of the stake pockets under the bed where the rear cross sill attaches 2 bolts on the inside and 2 on the outside of that sill. You can unbolt those wheel houses from the bedside to make it lighter and then they unbolt off the bed floor. The front bed panel unbolts but the bolts go in along the bottom and you need the bed pulled back or off to get at them. I used a grinder and a chisel by hand to remove the rear spot welds.

I of course remove the tailgate and lights, and unplug the harness from the bottom and let the light portion go with the bed, it runs along inside of the rear cross sill and can easily come off that if need be. I leave the frame portion of the harness just of course on the frame.
 

Doppleganger

Full Access Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
12,705
Reaction score
58,937
Location
OH-MI: Just like it sounds
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
5.7
This truck is a total basket case wiring wise - what isn't whipped is butchered or worse. Stripping it down to pieces isn't out of the question - more like a necessity.

Thanks a bunch for the details.....I'll probably make some sort of saw horse setup to put the bed on and do it all seperately. Truck's getting painted as well - always heard guys who did this say you could seal the panel edges better than they did at the factory when its apart also.

I'll take step by step pics when that day comes......Spring. :gr_grin:

Thanks fellas.
 

Jeff Hudak

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2019
Posts
8
Reaction score
3
Location
brideville de
First Name
jeff
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
k20
Engine Size
350
they bolt in the front and sides, you have to grind the welds in the back by the legs
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,160
Posts
950,625
Members
36,273
Latest member
dannyphx
Top