Battery to Starter Cable routing

[Daveo91Burb]

In my 383 build I took lots of pics as I removed the original 350, but this one I missed and don't exactly remember the routing. I'm thinking it might go between the motor mount and block? If that's right, can I thread it thru? And if not, would going underneath the motor mount be OK? And where does the rotated bracket shown in the second pic mount to? Thanks - getting close on putting this bee-yatch back together.

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[idahovette]

I would make it easy on myself and route it below the mount not through it. As long as you secure it and keep it out of the exhaust and fan you should be good

 

[chengny]

In my 383 build I took lots of pics as I removed the original 350, but this one I missed and don't exactly remember the routing. I'm thinking it might go between the motor mount and block? If that's right, can I thread it thru? And if not, would going underneath the motor mount be OK? And where does the rotated bracket shown in the second pic mount to? Thanks - getting close on putting this bee-yatch back together.

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The battery positive cable to the solenoid actually uses two of those rubber coated supports. The first one - after leaving the battery - is the twisted one that you are holding in the image above. It bolts to the upper flange of the frame rail as shown here:

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After passing through that first clip, the cable heads a little bit inboard to the second clip. This clip is just a simple "J" shape and it is secured by one of the fuel pump mounting plate fasteners (the little ones that don't pass through the fuel pump housing). Like this:

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After that, lead it down under the mount and into the frame rail - up against the web (vertical component):

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It will be protected in there for the remainder of the run to the solenoid. I have never seen any fasteners holding it to the web - it is a stiff heavy gauge cable, so it just kind of stays put. When it reaches the point where it needs to turn towards the solenoid, just bend it to the proper shape. It will retain that shape until someone unbends it.

 

[Craig 85]

On my big block it's routed under the motor mount and attaches to the transmission strut rod brace,

 

[Daveo91Burb]

Thanks for all the help and suggestions, everyone. Especially pics and drawing @chengny. I did it pretty much as you suggested. I'm not really happy with the tight loop before it gets to the fuel pump block off plate - I may make some minor adjustments, but it should work.

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[DanMcG]

I'm not really happy with the tight loop before it gets to the fuel pump block off plate -

I think you want to move the cable and frame clip to the vacant hole under your tranny cooling line and before the crossmember rivets. take a closer look at Chengny's pic.

 

[smoothandlow84]

On my big block it's routed under the motor mount and attaches to the transmission strut rod brace,

X2...same here. I also have some rubber coated clips that attach to the side of the oil pan.

 

[chengny]

Thanks for all the help and suggestions, everyone. Especially pics and drawing @chengny. I did it pretty much as you suggested. I'm not really happy with the tight loop before it gets to the fuel pump block off plate - I may make some minor adjustments, but it should work.

Ah yeah Jeez, I'm sorry Daveo. I wasn't very clear about how the cable is routed past the mount. I described it as below:

After that, lead it down under the mount and into the frame rail - up against the web (vertical component)

That's pretty much correct, but I left out one key word that would have eliminated that sharp radius bend (in the run between the fuel pump and the frame rail). The word is "then. As in:

After that, lead it down under the mount and then into the frame rail - up against the web (vertical component).

Here are a couple of images showing what I mean:

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And, like Dan says, the other sharp bend - in the section from the frame rail to the fuel pump - can be eased by shifting the cable clip to any of the holes forward of the cross member. The location of the holes may vary by model year and body style, but note the location that was used for the cable clip on this truck (and it was bone stock for this kind of stuff). It was a little bit past the start of the frame rail's downward slope:

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Again, sorry for the confusion, but I have so many photos of the trucks I have owned/repaired over the years. When I go to post, it can take hours to find a representative view of the issue at hand.

 

[Daveo91Burb]

Thanks for the advice, everyone. Jerry: don't feel bad about anything. Your advice was great and I knew I wasn't doing it exactly like you said - just seemed like there were some differences in my frame or cable that I had to accommodate. In the end, I moved the clip on the frame rail forward to the same location as the oil cooler lines and it made the bend to the fuel pump a lot less severe. As for after the fuel pump plate, I kept it as I first did it with it going behind the mount (i.e. to the web of the frame rail) right from there rather than under the mount. I'm sure under the mount is the correct way, but the bends don't seem too bad and if I did go under the mount I think I'd have too much slack to deal with. Perhaps my cable has been replaced and is longer than OEM. (does seem newer than truck) Thanks again!