Battery kill switch

[My78truck]

Okay, how does everyone feel about a wireless battery kill switch. I have searched for articles about "the best" and there are a couple. My only concern is battery drain. But then if you let these new computerized vehicles sit for more than a week, you get met with a dead battery. My elderly neighbor found that out.

I called my local mechanic. I know he doesn't like messing with radio wiring (was told that when I was getting a new radio). I ask how he felt about tapping for a kill switch. They said they would ask.......they never called me back so I will take that as a no.

 

[RecklessWOT]

If that's what you wanna do, go for it- it's your truck. If you know how I personally feel about it, I think anything wireless or bluetooth, or anything of the sort has no place in these trucks. The beauty of them is their simplicity, tried and true, reliable and basic. Start adding fancy modern **** to them and it loses that whole appeal. But that's just my opinion. There's people that have big touch screen stereos and back up cameras and hideous LED headlights, some nutty people even go so far as to swap in LS engines and fancy interiors from newer trucks. I don't understand it one bit, but hey, to each their own.

But from simply a practicality standpoint yes you're right, I would be worried about a constant draw that would kill the battery after a couple weeks of non use. There are plenty of other ways to make it harder for people to steal your truck without getting all crazy with the modern technology. A simple hidden switch that cuts fuel or ignition would do the job perfectly fine

 

[My78truck]

If that's what you wanna do, go for it- it's your truck. If you know how I personally feel about it, I think anything wireless or bluetooth, or anything of the sort has no place in these trucks. The beauty of them is their simplicity, tried and true, reliable and basic. Start adding fancy modern **** to them and it loses that whole appeal. But that's just my opinion. There's people that have big touch screen stereos and back up cameras and hideous LED headlights, some nutty people even go so far as to swap in LS engines and fancy interiors from newer trucks. I don't understand it one bit, but hey, to each their own.

But from simply a practicality standpoint yes you're right, I would be worried about a constant draw that would kill the battery after a couple weeks of non use. There are plenty of other ways to make it harder for people to steal your truck without getting all crazy with the modern technology. A simple hidden switch that cuts fuel or ignition would do the job perfectly fine

You are correct, thanks, I have concluded that in my mind. Simple is better, and yeah, not sure why there are people that want to change what is already perfect. I might understand a track truck, but not a daily driver. My better half always talks about adding headers and a blower and doing this and that to the engine, and I always have a few choice words for him. Stock is best. Heck, when I had to get a new radio, it is the basic, bare bones radio (unfortunately it does have a digital display )and 1 speaker - just like it came with. No CD player, no satellite radio, no Bluetooth no boom-boom stereo speakers/sound system. That is why the new vehicles are so darn expensive to work on. Gotta have a computer to figure it out. I already know where I want to hide a switch, now I just need to find someone to tap the appropriate wires to hook it up there, I can take it from there.

Thanks for your honesty and input.

 

[Camar068]

here's a few options:

-hidden magnetic switch that you put a Rockauto magnet
-toggle switch
-a switch thats original to the vehicle thats not used much (push and hold, then start and let off). This would need to be wired in a self holding relay configuration.

 

[My78truck]

here's a few options:

-hidden magnetic switch that you put a Rockauto magnet
-toggle switch
-a switch thats original to the vehicle thats not used much (push and hold, then start and let off). This would need to be wired in a self holding relay configuration.

I have decided on a toggle switch. Now to find someone to tap the appropriate wires and I can install and mount the switch. No sense having them install the switch and know where I put it. I am perfectly comfortable connecting 2 wires to a toggle switch, it is the other end I get worried about. I know when to leave it to a professional.

 

[Camar068]

but really having someone else do that is no different than them knowing where u put the switch. They know where to go to bypass it.....just at the other end and not at the switch.

just a thought.

 

[75gmck25]

One simple solution would be to put a continuous duty solenoid similar to this one in the main battery cable running down to the starter, and then switch it on and off with a toggle switch.https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...8ikcLan6CxpgdLzc1D0aAnqpEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Once you turned off the toggle switch you would have no power at all connected to the truck, so no battery drain.

 

[My78truck]

but really having someone else do that is no different than them knowing where u put the switch. They know where to go to bypass it.....just at the other end and not at the switch.

just a thought.

True. I just am not confident enough to venture into that territory.

 

[Camar068]

True. I just am not confident enough to venture into that territory.

we'll get you there in time

 

[My78truck]

One simple solution would be to put a continuous duty solenoid similar to this one in the main battery cable running down to the starter, and then switch it on and off with a toggle switch.https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...8ikcLan6CxpgdLzc1D0aAnqpEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Once you turned off the toggle switch you would have no power at all connected to the truck, so no battery drain.

Thanks, but will need some installation instructions. Unfortunately anyone with a coat hanger, or a slim-jim, can get into these trucks. I have an inside hood release, so wouldn't anything connected to the battery be fair game to disconnect to by pass? Of course, after saying that, that takes time and most non-professional thieves want the quick get-away. I totally understand a "kill-switch" is just a deterrent, just like locks and deadbolts on a house. If they really want it, they will get it. I forgot to state that my steering wheel is a locking one, if that helps, or matters.

What is really sad, is that WE put so much time and effort into maintaining and restoring these trucks and we have to worry about them getting stolen. I am also considering a tracker.

 

[Camar068]

What is really sad, is that WE put so much time and effort into maintaining and restoring these trucks and we have to worry about them getting stolen. I am also considering a tracker.

Totally agree. I'd love to have a tracker with a remote kill switch so I could woop their ass (to say the least) when I make it die on them.

But as I said, we'll get a multi-meter in your hands and a few youtube video's, and you'll be off to the races. Will take some time though. Really most of the time it's no worse than finding a water leak in a water hose.....your using your multi-meter instead of your eyes.

 

[75gmck25]

I've considered buying a commercial alarm system (Viper, etc) but none seem to stand out as a great choice. Some of the better ones also have features designed for newer vehicles, and they don’t make much sense on a squarebody (remotely close my windows?). However, it’s easy to find one with remote monitoring, so you would get an alert when the vehicle is opened or moved.

Another commercial option is LoJack. I know there is an installation cost, and probably a monthly fee.

 

[My78truck]

Okay, how does everyone feel about this?

https://killswitchcentral.com/

Also, I have this connector just hanging out that is plugged into the "IGN" slot on the fuse block. Can that connector be used or is the wiring too light? Probably not the optimal spot though.

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[Matt69olds]

It’s pretty easy to add a theft deterrent switch. You could put a switch inline with the purple wires at the neutral safety switch (that would prevent the truck from cranking) or a switch inline with the power feed to the distributor.

You could install a continuous duty solenoid inline to the main power feed to the truck. Then it won’t crank, the ignition won’t power up, no headlights, dome lights, etc. the only issue is the clock or radio presets won’t stay programmed.

I don’t think there is anything wrong with adding options or things to add to the comfort of these trucks. I will agree the huge stereo screens look out of place in a classic truck, and the LED lighting (ok, that’s not only out of place, but looks stupid!!) maybe not as stupid as the “Palakie” lean (or whatever it’s called) but still stupid. Nothing wrong with simple, but you can have simple and functional at the same time.


Nothing will stop a determined thief. The best you can do is discourage them, or slow them down. For the money, this is the best option in my opinion.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...ed-alarm-led-light-indicator-84918/22144508-P

Put this flashing LED in the defroster vent where it’s visible thru the windshield. Wire the positive wire to a terminal labeled “batt”. Wire the negative wire to a terminal in the fuse box labeled “ignition”. When the key is on, the light is off. Anytime the key is off, the light will flash.

 

[My78truck]

here's a few options:

-hidden magnetic switch that you put a Rockauto magnet
-toggle switch
-a switch thats original to the vehicle thats not used much (push and hold, then start and let off). This would need to be wired in a self holding relay configuration.

I have chose toggle. I went to O'Reilly's and bought (at the suggestion of the sales person) a 35 amp toggle and wire. He explained how to do this - cut purple wire, add red wire, run red wire where I want it, connect to toggle terminal, connect another length of red wire to same terminal, feed back to other end of purple wire and finish with connectors (butt & heat shrink).

Does that sound right? He said I didn't need to use the other terminal on toggle to ground it since it is basically an in-line connection. Is that correct?