Barn door won't latch fully...

[Girth]

..... without slamming the thing. Similar to how the other doors react when the strikers wear out. (Fixed those already) Left side barn door latches just fine, but the right, if you don't slam it, it won't latch fully and will rattle. Is this just an adjustment of the striker bolted to the body?

I'd go out and fiddle with it, but a rough work week has left me in bed all weekend. Damn lower back again. It's given me tons of time to convert my mental lists into parts orders the last couple days though.

One of those orders in new weatherstripping for the barn doors, from Steele Rubber. Won't be adjusting the doors until after I get that on, but figured I'd ask ahead of time, in case anyone had specific insight on what I should look out for.

 

[Originalthor]

Yes those latches top and bottom slide back and forth.

My barn doors do the same thing and drives me nuts. I've spent hours adjusting to get to close nice then dust comes in cause its not tight enough. I have old weather stripping too.

 

[Girth]

Yes those latches top and bottom slide back and forth.

My barn doors do the same thing and drives me nuts. I've spent hours adjusting to get to close nice then dust comes in cause its not tight enough. I have old weather stripping too.

Kinda what I figured. Drove it the other day and heard a wicked rattling from the back.... sure enough, RH barn door wasn't latched all the way. Wife must be spoiled, after I adjusted/fixed the other doors so they close properly, she didn't check to make sure this one was shut.

I'll let you know how this weatherstripping goes on, since I see you've the same year Burb even. Will probably post pics in my "build thread". Kinda worried about some rust at the bottom of one barn door.... but will handle that as it comes, then see about adjusting these doors latches and strikers. Should probably get in there and lube everything too...

 

[SirRobyn0]

Don't forget to check the hinges too. As I'm sure you know, a loose hinge causing a door to droop even a little bit can make it hard to shut.

Sorry to hear about your back. I had a fair bit of back trouble when I was younger and always figured that would be what slowed me down, but no. As I've gotten older my back gives me very little trouble these days, it's everything else around it now.....

 

[Girth]

Don't forget to check the hinges too. As I'm sure you know, a loose hinge causing a door to droop even a little bit can make it hard to shut.

Sorry to hear about your back. I had a fair bit of back trouble when I was younger and always figured that would be what slowed me down, but no. As I've gotten older my back gives me very little trouble these days, it's everything else around it now.....

Good point, and thank you. I remember noticing the gaskets around the hinges, where they come through the door skins, are GONE. Sure that contributed to the rust around the drain holes in the bottom of the door, so those just got added to a parts order.

Perfect excuse to mess with the hinges. HA! I'll make the wife help. She might not ask if I need help this time though.... after having to stand through a little hail and sleet, as I was replacing one of the barn door windows last weekend.

I think as I get older, I'm more careful about what it is I'm doing. Spending all week in awkward positions inside, on and around a Blackhawk though.... not as easy as it once was.

 

[SirRobyn0]

I think as I get older, I'm more careful about what it is I'm doing.

I certainly agree with that. I also get considerable more upset if I have to do the same job twice. Or like I was just fighting a charging system issue on my 96' Grand Cherokee. Went over all the grounds, and connections, replaced anything that looked even boarderline, replaced the alternator under warranty. A couple weeks worth of trying things, and driving it. It was charging just not very well. Finally I discovered when I'd initially replaced the alternator I'd installed a 90amp unit and the Jeep called for a 120amp unit. The regulator is built into the ECM and I think the 120 and 90 regulators are different, because installing the 120amp unit solved all my issues. I was happy to have it fixed, but certainly kicking myself.

At work I had to step back from the actual car repair a few years ago.... I guess about 5 or so. I manage the shop, but I use to be a combination manager / tech previously now I spend a LOT more time at my desk in the shop doing paper work which I don't enjoy, but I just can't be on my feet / bent over all day anymore. I can help the guys out and / or give advice, I just need to sit a lot more.