Ball Joint Replacement First Time!

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gearheadmike

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you must replace the sleeve and it should come with the ball joint. moogs do. any ball joint that doesn't come with the sleeve I would not buy. moog is an excellent choice. as far as u joints I like spicer. remember spicer is nicer. highdesertranger

I was thinking of going with spicer seeing my rear driveshaft is a spicer lol

And the sleeve I thought I seen some where there torque spec is like 100 ft lbs?
 

Linville33

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Just a little tip for the drivers side pb blaster the hell out of the steering arm for a day and then torch for like 2 minutes start beating the **** out of it and repeat. I got my first one to pop out with a pickle fork in the upper balljoint and hitting right next to the stud closest to the cab on the round end of the arm itself.

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bigcountryguy19

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It sets the preload. We thought that it was for castor but I called Moog and they were for preload.

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Preload on what?


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bigcountryguy19

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Never mind lol I had a brain fart, it must set the distance that the ball joint goes in so both joints on the knuckle evenly seat in the axle c.


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hirschdalechevy

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Just press the joints into the knuckle , start your sleeve in the top , slide the knuckle into place , torque the lower nut to 35lbs. Then torque your sleeve to 50lbs , (need the socket) , then torque your upper nut to 90lbs , then the lower nut to 75lbs , done.

There is no perfect torque spec for the ball joint nut's and sleeve's , every axle and joints are not the same but this fomula will get you close enough.

You are supposed to put it all together like above and use a pull scale and it should read 25lbs of pull when you are done if not you re torque until you hit that number but I have never went that far with it.

Just use the above formula and you will be close enough. On the upper joint with the cotter pin , take the nut to the torque and if it does not line up never loosen , alway's go a little more to line it up.

Good luck , (it's easy)
 

gearheadmike

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Ok I started today on pass side got the stuff all off and axle out I'm just down to the knuckle and ball joints got the nuts off just how do I get the knuckle off? Do I have to press the ball joints out first?
 

hirschdalechevy

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You will need to get a pickle fork and a hammer then give the old ball joints the beat down. Then the whole knuckle will come off , then you press the old out and new in.
 

Linville33

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Do what Hirsch said but if you run into the same problem I had with my pickle forks not being wide enough for the ball joint work it into the top one and then work the bottom one just back and forth and it should come off. Don't forget the snap ring on the lower ball joint otherwise you will beat it for hours and it doesn't seem to come off.

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gearheadmike

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Well I bought a $10 ball joint separator at local az one hit and came right off. I'm just waiting for my parts to come in. I got the u joint out just need to install new one then I have to rent a press tool for the ball joints and then reinstall. It came apart fairly easy but I'm not gunna say much right now lol.
 

hirschdalechevy

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You own it now , just take your time and follow the steps and torque's and put her back together.

:grd:
 

gearheadmike

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Well it's all back together so thanks everyone I can't take it for a test drive as my garage door broke and I can't open it right now lol. Now I just have to find my hub problem ugh.
 

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