Auto Locking Hubs?

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cedens

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Actually i'm not sure how to go about it, all we've done is repacked the autolocking hubs every few years, without problems. But parts look to be scarce other than some after-market warn piece that looks nothing like original. So why not just upgrade to what we had on the newer trucks and blazers we had. Not to mention 30 year old hubs make me nervous.
 

chengny

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Munroe Auto Locking Hubs

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Description
This automatic locking hub, Fig. 7, when placed in four wheel drive, directs power to the front wheels. The front axle turns the axle shaft, activating the tri-cam mechanism, which then moves the drive gear outward into engagement with the ring gear.
When two wheel drive is selected, disengagement is accomplished by the reverse movement of the wheels, which causes the drive gear and tri-cam to rotate to the disengaged position, moving the drive gear out of mesh with the ring gear.

Removal


1.Remove tire and wheel assembly, hubcap and hub lock.

2.Remove spring retainer, then the loose spring.

3.Carefully pull hub lock assembly from wheel. If hub lock assembly will not slide out freely, rotate wheel to facilitate removal.

Disassembly


1.Position hub lock assembly with plastic bearing side facing downward.

2.Pry inboard spring from assembly, then remove spindle lock, thrust bearing and tri-cam assembly.

3.Clean adapter housing assembly. If any part of this assembly is worn, replace as necessary.

4.Slide ring gear from adapter housing, then remove the six ring gear springs.

5.Remove ring gear spring retainer.

Assembly


1.Install ring gear spring retainer.

2.Position the six ring gear springs into adapter housing.

3.Grease outside surface of ring gear, then install into adapter housing. Ensure gear teeth are closest to springs.

4.Insert and install ring gear retaining ring. Ensure ring gear springs are properly seated in adapter housing.

5.Grease tri-cam assembly, then install into adapter housing.

6.Install thrust bearing, spindle lock and inboard snap ring. Rotate spindle lock tangs in both directions to check for free movement.

Installation


1.Install hub lock by first sliding hub onto axle shaft spline, then guide hub into wheel hub spline. When hub lock bottoms out, rotate entire wheel while pressing inward on hub until hub lock tangs engage wheel bearing locknut. Allow hub lock to seat itself. Hub lock should not protrude more than 3/8 inch from face of wheel hub.

2.Install spring, then unlock hub lock by rotating wheel hub while applying force to drive gear spring.

3.Install spring retainer and spring.

4.Install hub cap.
 
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chengny

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Warn(er) Auto Locking Hubs

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Description

The Automatic Locking Hub, shown in Fig. 6, engages or disengages to lock the front axle shaft to the hub of the front wheel. Engagement occurs whenever the vehicle is operated in 4WD. Disengagement occurs whenever 2WD has been selected and the vehicle is moving rearward. Disengagement will not occur when the vehicle is moved rearward if 4WD is selected and the hub has already been engaged.
Before disassembling a unit for a complaint of abnormal noise, note the following:


1.To obtain all-wheel drive, the transfer case lever must be placed in 4L or 4H, at which time the hub locks will automatically engage.

2.To unlock the hubs, shift the transfer case lever to 2H, then slowly reverse the vehicle direction approximately 10 feet.

3.An incomplete shift from 2WD to 4WD, or disengagement of only one hub lock may cause an abnormal sound from the front axle. Shift to 4WD to stop the noise, then unlock the hubs as previously stated.

Removal


1.Remove 5 screws retaining the cover to outer clutch housing.

2.Remove cover, seal, seal bridge and bearing components.

3.Compress the wire retaining ring and remove the remaining components from the hub.

Disassembly


1.Remove snap ring from groove in hub sleeve, then turn clutch gear until it falls into engagement with the outer clutch housing. Lift and tilt the drag sleeve to unlock the tangs of the brake band from window of inner cage, then remove the drag sleeve and brake assembly. The brake band must never be removed from the drag sleeve. The spring tension of the brake band can be changed if the coils are overexpanded and could affect hub operation.

2.Remove snap ring from groove in outer clutch housing, then pry plastic outer cage free from inner cage while inner cage is being removed.

3.Pry plastic outer cage tabs free from groove in outer clutch housing, then remove outer cage.

4.Remove clutch sleeve and attached components from outer clutch housing.

5.Compress return spring and hold the spring with clamps, then position the assembly in a vise so that the vise holds both ends of the clutch sleeve. Remove retaining spring.

6.Remove clamps holding the return spring, then slowly open the vise to permit the release of the return spring in a safe manner. Remove retainer seat, spring and spring support washers from the hub sleeve.

7.Remove C-ring from clutch sleeve. It is necessary to position sleeve assembly so that the C-ring ends are aligned with legs of cam follower, allowing removal between the legs.

8.Remove conical spring from between cam follower and clutch gear, then separate cam follower from clutch gear. Do not pry the legs of the cam follower apart.

Assembly & Installation


1.Install tangs of cam follower over flats of clutch gear, then compress conical spring and position with large diameter located against clutch gear.

2.Position clutch gear assembly over splines of hub sleeve. The teeth of the cam follower should be located at the end of the hub sleeve with no splines, and the clutch gear and spring should slide freely over splines of hub sleeve.

3.Install C-ring into groove of hub sleeve, then install a spring retainer over each end of return spring.

4.Position one end of return spring with retainer against shoulder of clutch gear, then place support washer on end of the return spring. Compress return spring and install retainer ring into groove of hub sleeve.

5.Place assembled components into outer housing. The cam follower should be positioned with legs facing outward.

6.Install 3 of the cover screws into 3 holes of the outer clutch housing. These screws will support the component to permit the clutch hub to drop down so that the tangs of the brake band can be assembled.

7.Carefully install the plastic outer cage into outer clutch housing with ramps facing toward cam follower. The small external tabs of the plastic cage should be located in wide groove of outer clutch housing.

8.Install steel inner cage into the outer cage, aligning tab of outer cage with window of the inner cage, then install retaining ring into groove of outer clutch housing above outer cage.

9.The brake band and drag are serviced as a complete assembly. Install one of the 2 tangs of the brake band on each side of the lug of the outer cage, located in the window of the steel inner cage. It will be necessary to tilt these parts to engage the tangs in this position as the drag sleeve is positioned against the face of the cam follower.

10.Remove the 3 screws and rest the end of the hub sleeve on a suitable support, then install washer and snap ring above drag sleeve. The following steps may be completed as the hub is installed into vehicle.

11.Install wire retaining ring into groove of end of clutch housing without spline. The tangs of retainer ring should point away from splined end of clutch housing.

12.Hold the tangs together and install the 2 bent down tabs of seal bridge over tangs. The seal bridge holds the wire retainer ring in a clamped position in groove of outer clutch housing. Install O-ring into groove of outer clutch housing and over the seal bridge.

13.Lubricate and install the bearing over the inner race. The steel ball bearing should be visible when the bearing is properly installed.

14.Install bearing retainer clip into hole in outer race, then install bearing and retainer assembly in end of hub sleeve. Install seal ring over outer clutch housing.

15.Install bearing race spring into bore of cover, then install cover and spring assembly. Align holes in cover to holes in outer clutch housing and install 5 screws.

16.Install O-ring over seal bridge to prevent it from dislodging during handling prior to the hub bearing being installed into the vehicle.

17.The hub and attached parts should turn freely after installation. The 5 cover screws must be loosened to install the hub into the vehicle. After installation, torque the cover screws to 40---50 inch lbs.
 

chengny

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Bearing Adjustment Procedure

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EXC. HUBS W/MONROE AUTO. TYPE LOCKING HUB


1.Remove dust cap or locking hub, lockwasher and outer locknut.

2.Using suitable spanner wrench, torque inner adjusting nut to 50 ft.. lbs. while rotating hub. Back off adjusting nut and torque to 50 ft. lbs. on 1985---87 models with manual hubs, or 35 ft. lbs. on all other models, while rotating hub, Fig. 4.

3.Back off adjusting nut just enough to free bearing on 1986---87 models with manual hubs, or 3/8 of a turn on all other models.

4.On 1980---84 K10---20/1500---2500 vehicles, proceed as follows:

a.On 1980 models, assemble adjusting nut lock by aligning nearest hole in lock with adjusting nut pin. Install outer locknut and torque to 80 ft. lbs.

b.On 1981---84 models, assemble drag sleeve retainer washer over the axle shaft and against bearing adjusting nut. The tang on the inside diameter of this washer is assembled in the keyway of the spindle. Assemble and tighten outer locknut to 160---205 ft. lbs.

5.On 1980---84 K30/3500 vehicles, proceed as follows:

a.On 1980---81 models, assemble lockwasher and locknut, then torque locknut to 65 ft. lbs. Bend one ear of lockwasher at least 30°over inner adjusting nut, and the other ear at least 60°over outer locknut.

b.On 1982---84 models, assemble drag sleeve retainer washer over axle shaft and against bearing adjusting nut. The tang on the inside diameter of this washer is assembled in the keyway of the spindle. Assemble and tighten outer locknut to 160---205 ft. lbs.

6.On 1985---87 models, assemble drag sleeve retainer washer. Ensure tang on inside diameter of washer passes onto slot in spindle and hole in washer aligns with locknut pin. Move adjustment nut as necessary to align pin, then torque locknut to 160 ft. lbs.

7.On all vehicles, check to ensure all hub assemblies have .001---.010 inch endplay.

8.Install dust cap or locking hub.

HUBS W/MONROE AUTO. TYPE LOCKING HUB


1.Remove locking hub assembly.

2.Torque locknut to 70 ft. lbs. while rotating hub and disc assembly.

3.Back off locknut, then torque to 25 ft. lbs. while rotating hub and disc.

4.Back off locknut to align nearest slot, then install locknut key.

5.Measure endplay. Endplay should be .001---.010 inch.

6.Reinstall locking hub assembly.
 

89Suburban

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More outstanding info from the man. Damn I wish I had this 2 years ago.
 

cedens

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awesome info, previously dad has been the one doing this, now it falls to me and I'm sure they haven't been repacked in a few years!

I'll add this to the list of to do on the truck, probably some time this weekend if i have time.
 

chengny

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A quick word on hub lubrication - use as little as possible. Unless required as a barrier to water ingress, grease has no real function in the hub other than to prevent oxidation on the splines.

Often there is a problem with too much grease being "packed" into the hub cavity. If overfilled, the inner clutch ring can become hydraulically locked and unable to slide in and out on the splines.

A couple of pertinent pages from the Spicer service manual are attached.

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bucket

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All my experience with auto hubs has been bad, and cleaning/greasing them has not helped. I gave up on them long ago. I do have a set of new take-off auto hubs, but they are for a Dana 60. I only bought them because they are uncommon.
 

cedens

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The previous owner told me i can't swap them out for manual locking hubs, he reminded me of an incedent ant the local speedway (which the infield was flooded) where troy had to get out into a foot of water over mud and lock hubs in

I guess mine are the warn's ones that GM used for years, passed by about 4 square body's for sale and driving 1 had manuals the other three still had auto locking (including the SWB 85-87 for sale out near Kingfisher Ok)
 

bucket

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I don't have to get out in any muck to lock my hubs. If there's any chance I'll need 4 wheel drive at all, those hubs get locked before I even drive the truck.
 

cedens

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typically for me, i would be in the same situation if i am in that truck i would know if 4x4 is needed before turning the ignition, right now i'm torn on restoring it, making it nice or some form of custom... also i want to do this as cost effectively as possible.

I did notice i was testing the dash lights put it in 4 hi to check 4x4 the right hub did lock in because when i backed out to run to town it gave me the tell tale click it was unlocked.
 

bucket

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When my auto hubs still worked properly, there was never any clicking or anything to let you know everything was golden. It wasn't an issue, they would unlock as soon as the truck started to roll in reverse. Over time, the left hub started getting VERY temperamental.
 

towjoe

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I had one of those dana 60 auto hubs try to engage going down road once and strip out. Sounded expensive when it done it lol
 

bucket

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I had one of those dana 60 auto hubs try to engage going down road once and strip out. Sounded expensive when it done it lol

Yep, that's what mine started doing after a while. That auto hub is what gave me the kick in the butt to install the axles/lift/tires under the Burb.
 

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