I like the engine bay start ability. Just like a transit coach. My diesel would be a bit more involved. LOL
Heat is what blows out fuses. Soldering the ring terminals onto a fuse will change it's current handling ability.
The blowout characteristics of Fuses and Fusible links are quite different so it's not easy to handicap the correct fuse for the application. Soldering ring terminals to the fusible links doesn't appreciably degrade them either.
If you want to use a fuse... Why not replace the J-stud block with a couple of 8mm stud mount MIDI Fuse holders? You can get MIDI fuses from 30A-200A and you can tell at a glance whether they are blown or not.
The holders and fuses are inexpensive and don't require modification of the fuse elements.
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I modified the starter and power feeds more than a little bit.
Parallel Wired Diesel Batteries
Positive lugs...
- The 4AWG battery to battery positive cable runs along the top of the radiator in the stock location terminated to both side terminals as stock.
- The Positive lugs on both batteries use longer bolts and spacer slugs to handle two connections. Stock setup only uses two connections to the RH battery and the crossover cable connection only on the LH battery.
- The RH Battery has a short 4AWG positive cable to reach the remote solenoid BAT terminal. Stock would run all the way to the starter BAT stud.
- The LH Battery has a Short 8AWG positive cable to reach the fusible link stud strip #1 Stud. Stock would only have the crossover cable.
Ground Lugs...
Stock runs to the Alternator on the RH side and I've forgotten where on the LH side.
- The 4AWG ground cables run directly to the frame on the LH & RH sides.
- 4AWG cables run from both rails to the block at the motor mounts. I originally used heavy braided straps but they corroded faster than I cared for.
- Braided straps run from both frame rails to the cab, bed, inner-fenders, and rad support. My vain attempt to cut down on galvanic corrosion between body panels.
The starter has a remote solenoid and no wires down the bellhousing at all.
- The Purple Crank wire runs in the wire tray over the doghouse then down the AC box with the AC blower relay wiring, along the blower power wire, and then along the RH inner fender to the remote starter solenoid. I made a new 14AWG Purple wire to reach from the Packard 56 Firewall passthrough to the solenoid ring terminal and covered it with expanding sleeve.
- The fat 4AWG starter power wire runs from the remote solenoid to the oil pan rail then to the BAT terminal on the starter. This wire only has power when the remote solenoid next to the RH battery is energized.
- The starter mounted solenoid gets power from the BAT terminal through a 6" Purple wire from the 3/8" BAT terminal to the #8 crank wire terminal so the starter will crank as soon as the fat 4AWG cable is energized.
Typically there are three or four fusible links. Two at the starter and one or two on the J-stud.
To avoid the wires down the RH side of the bellhousing in that tube next to the starter and make changing the links easier.
I made up four fusible links with ring terminals on both ends. Three on a four position stud isolator strip mounted on the inner fender next to the LH battery and one on the J-Stud.
At the 4 #10 stud distribution block;
- The Cab power 12AWG feed is on Stud #4 with a BLACK 16AWG Fusible Link to Stud #1.
- The Headlamps 12AWG feed and 12AWG alternator Sense are on Stud #3 with a GRAY 14AWG Fusible Link to Stud #1.
- The Larger J-Stud 8AWG feed is on Stud #2 with a ORANGE 10AWG Fusible Link to #1.
- The 8AWG second LH battery positive connection runs to stud #1.
At the J-Studs on the firewall;
- The 8AWG CS130D alternator BAT wire runs right to the larger J-Stud along the RH valve cover inboard edge. No fusible link here.
- Glow Plug relay 8AWG Glow Plug power direct to the larger J-Stud as well. Every glow plug has its' own fusible link as stock for 1985 & later systems.
- The 10AWG AC Blower relay feed wire is attached to the smaller J-Stud and it's protected by a GRAY 14AWG fusible link wire between the Large and Small J-Studs.
The distribution block I bought from WiringProducts...
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It looks like GM might've done it that way... If they put a 6.5L AMG Diesel in a 1976 K20 LOL
No I don't have pictures. No I'm not taking any in the back of my dark barn in the dead of winter at -20°F.
