Alternator wiring

[foamypirate]

Alright the old alternator wires lead back to one of the red wires and the brown one.

Then the other red one ran to a power distribution block on my firewall. I'm guessing these two thicker red wires are my "power ins". I'm just looking at schematics to try to figure out the brown wire.

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Yep, those are the two wires I was talking about. One of them should be running the the junction block on the firewall (which was originally fed from the battery terminal on the starter). I opted to run dedicated wires from my distribution block for the 2 running into the bulkhead, and then a heavier gauge wire directly to the junction block, for the HVAC.

If I recall, I deleted the brown wire. You do, unfortunately, lose the alternator light, but you can just watch the volt gauge instead. I don't know if there is a way to maintain the light, seems like a lot of swaps ditch it (mine included).

 

[347strokin]

Yep, those are the two wires I was talking about. One of them should be running the the junction block on the firewall (which was originally fed from the battery terminal on the starter). I opted to run dedicated wires from my distribution block for the 2 running into the bulkhead, and then a heavier gauge wire directly to the junction block, for the HVAC.

If I recall, I deleted the brown wire. You do, unfortunately, lose the alternator light, but you can just watch the volt gauge instead. I don't know if there is a way to maintain the light, seems like a lot of swaps ditch it (mine included).

It's all making sense now. I'll be going for a first start today on the motor. Fingers crossed!

 

[347strokin]

Yep, those are the two wires I was talking about. One of them should be running the the junction block on the firewall (which was originally fed from the battery terminal on the starter). I opted to run dedicated wires from my distribution block for the 2 running into the bulkhead, and then a heavier gauge wire directly to the junction block, for the HVAC.

If I recall, I deleted the brown wire. You do, unfortunately, lose the alternator light, but you can just watch the volt gauge instead. I don't know if there is a way to maintain the light, seems like a lot of swaps ditch it (mine included).

I guess one last question. Lol. I'm running a 150 amp breaker between the battery and the alternator. What rating fusible link did you use running to your ignition system? The Chilton's schematics don't specify a rating on that guy.

 

[foamypirate]

I guess one last question. Lol. I'm running a 150 amp breaker between the battery and the alternator. What rating fusible link did you use running to your ignition system? The Chilton's schematics don't specify a rating on that guy.

There isn't a hard and fast rule, per se, but in general, a 6" length of fusible link, 2 gauges smaller than the wire it feeds, is a good general rule of thumb.

For example, if your power feed to your harness was 14 gauge wire, you would use a 6" length of 16 gauge fusible link.

 

[347strokin]

There isn't a hard and fast rule, per se, but in general, a 6" length of fusible link, 2 gauges smaller than the wire it feeds, is a good general rule of thumb.

For example, if your power feed to your harness was 14 gauge wire, you would use a 6" length of 16 gauge fusible link.

Alright great. Thanks again. Oh man. And another question. On my truck, the tan wire at the firewall will be for my oil pressure guage and the dark green wire will be for my coolant temp. Are these wires on the right side bundle of the firewall when looking from the front of the truck?

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[foamypirate]

They'll be on the left side of the bulkhead. The right side bundle is tail light wiring, if I recall.

 

[347strokin]

They'll be on the left side of the bulkhead. The right side bundle is tail light wiring, if I recall.

Thanks again Foamy.

 

[347strokin]

No go yet boys. I'll keep you updated! Unfortunately I'm back to work for two weeks. So if she doesn't start today, she'll be sitting until I return.

 

[h3adbang3r14]

i have a si style alternator in my 81 and used an adapter i found on ebay that goes from the si plug on alternator to the cs plug on harness to run bolt gauge has built in resistor

 

[4WDKC]

Here is how I setup my wiring:

I have a heavy gauge wire straight from the battery, through a large fuse, then to a distribution block. From the distribution block, I power both power wires into the factory bulkhead, a wire to the junction block on the firewall for the HVAC, and a power wire to my LS swap harness.

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Where did you mount this distribution block?

 

[foamypirate]

It's on the on the core support, engine bay side, on the driver's side. I relocated my battery to the driver's side to use the factory LS battery cables. If you aren't keen on relocating the battery, the passenger side might make more sense.

Nice Vette, btw! I've got a C5 (currently in pieces waiting on a steering rack rebuild), but always loved the looks of the C3.

 

[4WDKC]

It's on the on the core support, engine bay side, on the driver's side. I relocated my battery to the driver's side to use the factory LS battery cables. If you aren't keen on relocating the battery, the passenger side might make more sense.

Nice Vette, btw! I've got a C5 (currently in pieces waiting on a steering rack rebuild), but always loved the looks of the C3.

Thanks, its another work in progress. I was hoping it was on the firewall, I want to put mine there but havent gotten around to it. Guess I need to get on that before I do serp. conversion and efan. Have been stalling as it will evolve into removing electric bracke controller that is probably as old as the truck, removing the useless baja lights.

 

[347strokin]

I want a Corvette now. lol

 

[foamypirate]

I want a Corvette now. lol

C5s aren't bad, price wise. I bought a really low mile one for $17.5K. If I had to do it again, I'd get something with a few more miles; this one has some weird issues from sitting that I've been working on repairing. I've seen good examples go for 14-15k.

 

[foamypirate]

Thanks, its another work in progress. I was hoping it was on the firewall, I want to put mine there but havent gotten around to it. Guess I need to get on that before I do serp. conversion and efan. Have been stalling as it will evolve into removing electric bracke controller that is probably as old as the truck, removing the useless baja lights.

You could always run it on the firewall. Just make sure you put the big 150 amp fuse as close to the battery as possible, and use some good heavy gauge wire (8ga) to the distribution block, and you'll be fine.