Aftermarket EFI

[4WDKC]

The cam in that second engine is similar duration and more lift than the cam in have in my street/strip 406 in my vette. In my car its alot of fun but in a heavier truck with a smaller cube motor not sure it would be so great. I think the cam is to big for intended purpose. Here what my cam sounds like with drual duals/x pipe and 406 cubes, 11:1

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[87silveradok20]

The cam in that second engine is similar duration and more lift than the cam in have in my street/strip 406 in my vette. In my car its alot of fun but in a heavier truck with a smaller cube motor not sure it would be so great. I think the cam is to big for intended purpose. Here what my cam sounds like with drual duals/x pipe and 406 cubes, 11:1

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My truck has 4:10 gears and 33s with that cam will the truck drive worse than it did stock? I couldn't imagine it would be.


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[4WDKC]

Honestly I would pull a vortec engine from a junkyard that offers returns/warranty (U pick a part) take it home tear apart and have a machine shop check it over before return period is up. This will allow you build the engine to do what you need and probably cheaper too. It has factory roller cam and you can usually reuse stock roller lifters one piece rear main seal. When my 406 lost oil pressure I considered crate engine but felt the only benefit was the warranty and that is void if you change cam/heads etc.

 

[4WDKC]

My truck has 4:10 gears and 33s with that cam will the truck drive worse than it did stock? I couldn't imagine it would be.


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in the ad it says it will need a 2k stall min. do you have one already? Define worse, what didnt you like about it?

 

[87silveradok20]

in the ad it says it will need a 2k stall min. do you have one already? Define worse, what didnt you like about it?

Right now the truck is bone stock except headers and dual exhaust. Then engine I have blew a head gasket and my dad gave me some money to put the motor I want in it. I want something that moves out of its way a little faster than it did stock. Anything over stock is ok with me.


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[4WDKC]

without that stall those other engines will buck, be slow off the line (probably better than stock) may even die. IF you just want better than stock you could buy a vortec 350 of a yard or a running engine swap in a better cam and be much happier. My truck has 410s and 315/70r17 so I understand the poor performance, I am about to swap to vortec heads and a cam for a 95 z28. Its cam is 203/207 @.050 .447/.459 lift with 117 LSA, It is bigger than the stock vortec cams and a ton bigger than the anemic TBI cam but, it will still work with stock convertor and gives a boost in performance in all rpm range to 5k

for that matter you should look into the cost of a LS swap, stock 5.3s are 285 ish hp and 6.0 is like 360. If you buy and entire wrecked truck you get everything you need to do the swap and maybe cheaper than those crate engines.

 

[87silveradok20]

without that stall those other engines will buck, be slow off the line (probably better than stock) may even die. IF you just want better than stock you could buy a vortec 350 of a yard or a running engine swap in a better cam and be much happier. My truck has 410s and 315/70r17 so I understand the poor performance, I am about to swap to vortec heads and a cam for a 95 z28. Its cam is 203/207 @.050 .447/.459 lift with 117 LSA, It is bigger than the stock vortec cams and a ton bigger than the anemic TBI cam but, it will still work with stock convertor and gives a boost in performance in all rpm range to 5k

for that matter you should look into the cost of a LS swap, stock 5.3s are 285 ish hp and 6.0 is like 360. If you buy and entire wrecked truck you get everything you need to do the swap and maybe cheaper than those crate engines.

I was planning on swapping converters, how do you think the truck would act with that?


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[87silveradok20]

without that stall those other engines will buck, be slow off the line (probably better than stock) may even die. IF you just want better than stock you could buy a vortec 350 of a yard or a running engine swap in a better cam and be much happier. My truck has 410s and 315/70r17 so I understand the poor performance, I am about to swap to vortec heads and a cam for a 95 z28. Its cam is 203/207 @.050 .447/.459 lift with 117 LSA, It is bigger than the stock vortec cams and a ton bigger than the anemic TBI cam but, it will still work with stock convertor and gives a boost in performance in all rpm range to 5k

for that matter you should look into the cost of a LS swap, stock 5.3s are 285 ish hp and 6.0 is like 360. If you buy and entire wrecked truck you get everything you need to do the swap and maybe cheaper than those crate engines.

I was planning on swapping converters, how do you think the truck would act with that?


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[4WDKC]

With a convertor it will accelerate faster as it allows the engine to spin up to (but not limited to) the 2k rpm while the truck is accelerating with a load placed against it.

 

[MikeB]

As mush as I'd like to run the gm motor I just don't have another $1000 to put into this. Blueprint has another motor that is a 383 that puts the same numbers as the one I posted earlier. It however has vortec heads and a roller cam. It's part number is bp3833ct1. Would this be a better option?

230/236 duration is still a pretty big cam for a weekend cruiser and for towing, where I suspect the engine will rarely see above 4000 RPM. I'd just hate to see you end up sacrificing low-mid RPM torque and gas mileage for high RPM horsepower that you will rarely use. I'd like it much better with cam specs similar to these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cro-00409lm/overview/make/chevrolet

As for cost, how much of the $1,000 savings over the HT383 will you spend on name brand water pump, damper, and intake manifold?

A personal point of reference: I once ran a 383 in a 69 C10 with 9.4 compression, Dart Iron Eagle 180cc heads, 650 CFM carb on a Performer RPM manifold, and a 210/210 Crane Energizer flat tappet cam with 1.6 roller rockers for .470"/.470" net lift. The power that thing made compared to the truck's previous 350 was just awesome. It would spin the tires in 1st gear and chirp them going into 2nd with a TH350 and 3.08 axle. It would rev to >5500, but its best quality was insane pulling power from right off idle.

 

[MikeB]

Yes, a 2000 RPM stall converter (which is probably closer to 2400 behind a 383) would get the engine into its powerband quicker. But unless the trans has a lockup converter TH350C, 700R4) it will slip a little more than a stock converter at highway speeds. You will also need a trans cooler in-line with the cooling lines built-in to the radiator. Slip = heat.

 

[87silveradok20]

As for cost, how much of the $1,000 savings over the HT383 will you spend on name brand water pump, damper, and intake manifold?

I was planning on re using my water pump id have less than 300 in the intake and damper.


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[87silveradok20]

Yes, a 2000 RPM stall converter (which is probably closer to 2400 behind a 383) would get the engine into its powerband quicker. But unless the trans has a lockup converter TH350C, 700R4) it will slip a little more than a stock converter at highway speeds. You will also need a trans cooler in-line with the cooling lines built-in to the radiator. Slip = heat.

Ok, I already have an extra trans cooler on the truck so I'm good there.


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[MikeB]

Nice brand new 350 for $3,300 with a TQ curve as flat as Kansas. Has a 2 year 50,000 mile warranty.

http://paceperformance.com/i-23849470-19367080-sp350cid-357-hp-base-crate-engine.html

GMPP 350/357 HP BASE CRATE ENGINE

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[87silveradok20]

Nice brand new 350 for $3,300 with a TQ curve as flat as Kansas. Has a 2 year 50,000 mile warranty.

http://paceperformance.com/i-23849470-19367080-sp350cid-357-hp-base-crate-engine.html

GMPP 350/357 HP BASE CRATE ENGINE

You must be registered for see images attach

I like the price on that engine, I just wish it had power closer to the other ones.


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