Aftermarket EFI

[87silveradok20]

I'm thinking about going to aftermarket efi on my truck. I have tbi on it now but want to swap my engine out for one of the blueprint 383 motors. This is the motor I'm looking at putting in the truck. http://www.jegs.com/i/Blueprint-Engines/138/BP3834CT1/10002/-1

With that being said I have a few questions
1) will everything off the front of my stock 350 mount to this motor?
2) what intake manifold should I get to go with the motor?
3) what is the best aftermarket efi for this motor. I want something simple and reliable that will give me good power. (I don't want a carb so don't bring that up)
4) Will I need anything special to get this motor to work with my th400. It has a mild shift kit and the sprag clutch in it.
5) am I missing anything else I'll need?


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[WFO]

I'm not up on EFI stuff, but you would need a different harmonic balancer, since your 350 was internally balanced.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Okay, that's great and all, but how about just going with a carburetor? Just kidding, let me see if I can help a little.

1. This motor is based on a late 350. Your accessories, flexplate, etc. should swap over just fine, but I think you'll need a new harmonic balancer, as mentioned above.
2. You'll need a square bore, four barrel carb intake without EGR provisions if you go with say FiTech, which is what I would go with if I were going aftermarket. I imagine Holley being the same, but I'm not 100% on that. I would look at both Edelbrock and Holley/Weiand intakes.
3. Easy. Carburetion is the best EFI. Again, kidding. I'd want to go with FiTech if I was doing an aftermarket setup. I know people use Holley, but I haven't heard anything about theirs. I have heard bad things about Holley's replacement TBI, though. I don't know if you've considered using a 50mm BBC Rochester TBI unit and seeing what you'll need to do to the intake (if anything), deleting the EGR, and reburning the PROM. That way you can keep the electronic setup you have now, and with that monster TBI and injectors, you should have no problem making that a 420 hp motor like they say. I like the Rochester TBI, and whenever I dig into making my Jimmy more powerful, I'll build my setup around the Rochester unit.
4. Yes, you'll want a higher stall converter to get the most out of the new engine. Check around on that page because they should recommend a stall range for the TC.
5. If you go with an aftermarket EFI system and don't want to keep a Rochester based system, you'll need to see about a distributor. I'd also do something about the exhaust. Long tube headers and delete the cat at least. If you have air injection, get rid of it. Here's the link to a built 50mm TBI. It's cheaper itself than FiTech, and you already have the control system, but I guess it depends on how much you'll spend on the PROM burning. It may work out a little cheaper or the same.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/162366...7290-0%26rvr_id%3D1306536922471&ul_noapp=true

 

[gpmorgan]

To use the fitec efi system you will need to upgrade your fuel pump. I used an aeromotive 340lpg 90psi pump. The efi unit has a built in regulator and needs at least a 58psi fuel pump. I used the factory fuel lines including the return line. It needs to have a square bore intake so no adapters are needed.

 

[87silveradok20]

Okay, that's great and all, but how about just going with a carburetor? Just kidding, let me see if I can help a little.

1. This motor is based on a late 350. Your accessories, flexplate, etc. should swap over just fine, but I think you'll need a new harmonic balancer, as mentioned above.
2. You'll need a square bore, four barrel carb intake without EGR provisions if you go with say FiTech, which is what I would go with if I were going aftermarket. I imagine Holley being the same, but I'm not 100% on that. I would look at both Edelbrock and Holley/Weiand intakes.
3. Easy. Carburetion is the best EFI. Again, kidding. I'd want to go with FiTech if I was doing an aftermarket setup. I know people use Holley, but I haven't heard anything about theirs. I have heard bad things about Holley's replacement TBI, though. I don't know if you've considered using a 50mm BBC Rochester TBI unit and seeing what you'll need to do to the intake (if anything), deleting the EGR, and reburning the PROM. That way you can keep the electronic setup you have now, and with that monster TBI and injectors, you should have no problem making that a 420 hp motor like they say. I like the Rochester TBI, and whenever I dig into making my Jimmy more powerful, I'll build my setup around the Rochester unit.
4. Yes, you'll want a higher stall converter to get the most out of the new engine. Check around on that page because they should recommend a stall range for the TC.
5. If you go with an aftermarket EFI system and don't want to keep a Rochester based system, you'll need to see about a distributor. I'd also do something about the exhaust. Long tube headers and delete the cat at least. If you have air injection, get rid of it. Here's the link to a built 50mm TBI. It's cheaper itself than FiTech, and you already have the control system, but I guess it depends on how much you'll spend on the PROM burning. It may work out a little cheaper or the same.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/162366...7290-0%26rvr_id%3D1306536922471&ul_noapp=true

Alright so
1) I think I good in what I need here. Just a harmonic balancer correct?
2) Is dual plane or single plane going to be better here?
3) I'll look into the Rochester and the fitech stuff and go from there.
4) I'll check into that as well
5) ok so my tbi distributor won't work?, I already have long tube headers into a dual 3 inch.


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[Crispy]

Thats a nice engine to start out with. Nice to see something other than an LS swap for power. Good luck with the build.

 

[87silveradok20]

Do you guys think the 400 hp fitech system will be enough for this engine? Or should I just go to the 600hp one. There is a $200 difference so if I can save the money I'll do it, but I'd like to do it right as well.


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[Honky Kong jr]

Do you guys think the 400 hp fitech system will be enough for this engine? Or should I just go to the 600hp one. There is a $200 difference so if I can save the money I'll do it, but I'd like to do it right as well.


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I'd say 600 only because a 383 should be close to 400 and you don't want to be running at the limits of the system and run into lean issues. Just my .02

 

[87silveradok20]

I'd say 600 only because a 383 should be close to 400 and you don't want to be running at the limits of the system and run into lean issues. Just my .02

Alright that is what I was thinking but I just wanted to be sure.


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[4WDKC]

Alright so
1) I think I good in what I need here. Just a harmonic balancer correct?
2) Is dual plane or single plane going to be better here?
3) I'll look into the Rochester and the fitech stuff and go from there.
4) I'll check into that as well
5) ok so my tbi distributor won't work?, I already have long tube headers into a dual 3 inch.


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1. If you get an internally balanced 383 wouldnt his balancer work?
2. there is some debate about which is better for efi, personally I think single plane is better as it doesnt divide your fuel spray to half the engine.
3. The holley stuff is good but cost more, the part i like is it uses GM sensors so if one goes bad on you any parts store has a replacement. You want the 4bbl TBi not the stock GM tbi replacement from holley.
4. What was said earlier.
5. I am using a tbi dist. for a 90 camaro with both of my Holley setups.

 

[MikeB]

Seems like a waste to run a flat tappet cam in a roller cam block. The engine also has heads of unknown origin with unknown flow rates, probably re-conditioned rods, and unknown cam other than basic specs. They don't say what the bore is, but a lot of rebuilders will take it out to +.040". Even at +.030", you'd be on your last overbore.

So now what? Well, for another $1,000 you could get a NEW GM crate HT383 with roller cam, forged crank, Vortec heads, damper, water pump, and intake manifold. It may not rev as high as the Blueprint engine or make as much peak horsepower, but it WILL make more torque over a wider RPM band, which your truck will like.

The HT383 is rated at 444 lb/ft @ 3000 RPM, and the Blueprint supposedly makes 450 @ an unspecified RPM -- probably 4000-4500. Poor torque at lower RPM is why they specify a 2000-2300 RPM stall converter! That's fine for a light car with low rear axle ratio, but not so much for a heavy 4WD pickup. (BTW, read my signature.)

However, if you plan to spend a lot of time at high RPMs to take advantage of the higher horsepower, then get the Blueprint engine. Just be sure to use a good break-in oil like Driven BR30, or you may wipe a cam lobe during the first few minutes. Also, don't forget to pre-lube the engine.

As for EFI, I wouldn't dismiss the new Holley Sniper. Sounds like a well thought out system, and they have been doing EFI since the 1980s.

Counter-weighted 400-style damper for use with externally balanced 383:

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[gpmorgan]

From what I've read, the tbi distributor is already locked out and the rotor is fazed. That's just what the aftermarket efi makers want if you elect to use the system that has timing control. They don't mention the tbi dizzy though. They all seem to think that msd is the only dizzy to get.

 

[87silveradok20]

Seems like a waste to run a flat tappet cam in a roller cam block. The engine also has heads of unknown origin with unknown flow rates, probably re-conditioned rods, and unknown cam other than basic specs. They don't say what the bore is, but a lot of rebuilders will take it out to +.040". Even at +.030", you'd be on your last overbore.

So now what? Well, for another $1,000 you could get a NEW GM crate HT383 with roller cam, forged crank, Vortec heads, damper, water pump, and intake manifold. It may not rev as high as the Blueprint engine or make as much peak horsepower, but it WILL make more torque over a wider RPM band, which your truck will like.

The HT383 is rated at 444 lb/ft @ 3000 RPM, and the Blueprint supposedly makes 450 @ an unspecified RPM -- probably 4000-4500. Poor torque at lower RPM is why they specify a 2000-2300 RPM stall converter! That's fine for a light car with low rear axle ratio, but not so much for a heavy 4WD pickup. (BTW, read my signature.)

However, if you plan to spend a lot of time at high RPMs to take advantage of the higher horsepower, then get the Blueprint engine. Just be sure to use a good break-in oil like Driven BR30, or you may wipe a cam lobe during the first few minutes. Also, don't forget to pre-lube the engine.

As for EFI, I wouldn't dismiss the new Holley Sniper. Sounds like a well thought out system, and they have been doing EFI since the 1980s.

Counter-weighted 400-style damper for use with externally balanced 383:

You must be registered for see images attach

As mush as I'd like to run the gm motor I just don't have another $1000 to put into this. Blueprint has another motor that is a 383 that puts the same numbers as the one I posted earlier. It however has vortec heads and a roller cam. It's part number is bp3833ct1. Would this be a better option?


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[4WDKC]

As mush as I'd like to run the gm motor I just don't have another $1000 to put into this. Blueprint has another motor that is a 383 that puts the same numbers as the one I posted earlier. It however has vortec heads and a roller cam. It's part number is bp3833ct1. Would this be a better option?


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Ideally you want to see the dyno graph not for the peak hp/lb number but so you can see the torque curve and its location. What are you goals/intended use for the truck? Towi street/strip, off road, drag racing. Are you ok with running premium fuel in the truck all time?

 

[87silveradok20]

Ideally you want to see the dyno graph not for the peak hp/lb number but so you can see the torque curve and its location. What are you goals/intended use for the truck? Towi street/strip, off road, drag racing. Are you ok with running premium fuel in the truck all time?

For this truck I'm just going for a weekend cruiser. This truck will just be on the road. I may tow occasionally with it(less than 5 times a year) and it wouldn't be very heavy. I have no problem running premium fuel in it.


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