Advice on drop before I order

[mxracer394]

It's came to the point it's time to order my lowering kit. It's basically a frame up build due to a can swap. I originally was going with a 2.5" spindle and 4" hangers and shackle drop. The more I look it seems easier to do a 3/5. I'm trying to decide now do I go with coils or spindles? I'm not trying to do it on a budget. I want to do it right the first time. I have seen where the 3" spindles and flip kit leaves the front higher than the rear so I was thinking maybe a 3/4 kit. I want either completely level or a light rake stance. This will not be a daily driver at all. If Any one has suggestions or pictures please share

 

[J Knight]

I would do a 2.5in spindle and 1in drop spring and a flip in the rear, that will give you a 3.5/5in drop and it will reduce the factory "rake" from 2in to .5in. It might cost a little more but well worth the money. FWIW, a 4in drop in the rear is a pita if you dont have the right tools to get the rivets out of the hangers.

 

[Old77]

X2 on what J Knight said

 

[mxracer394]

I like that idea. Don't know why I wasn't thinking to do thAt. Any recommendation on which parts to go with? Would definitely prefer a flip kit that had been used with out having to notch. That's one reason I have pretty much decided against the 2.5/4 is because of the modifications it takes. I like wrenching but not cutting. Also is there any issues with the stock rallys and 2.5" spindles?

 

[J Knight]

Any recommendation on which parts to go with??

Western Chassis, Bell Tech, CPP, McGaughys are all good kits. Me personally I like CPP spindles and Western Chassis flip brackets(with gussets) and shock extenders.

Would definitely prefer a flip kit that had been used with out having to notch.

You don't have to notch with a flip kit if you have at least 5.25in between the frame and the top of the leaf spring at ride height(.25in bracket, 3in axle tube, 2in minimum travel). In the pic below you can see I had a flip with 6.75in at ride height(.25in bracket, 3in axle tube, 3.5in travel).

I like wrenching but not cutting.
Also is there any issues with the stock rallys and 2.5" spindles?

You might need to lightly trim the lower leading edge of the lower control arms so they don't rub when turning at full lock to lock.

 

[firebane]

I would do a 2.5in spindle and 1in drop spring and a flip in the rear, that will give you a 3.5/5in drop and it will reduce the factory "rake" from 2in to .5in. It might cost a little more but well worth the money. FWIW, a 4in drop in the rear is a pita if you dont have the right tools to get the rivets out of the hangers.

4.5" grinder and a couple of cutoff wheels and a grinding pad. about 20 mins per side.

 

[mxracer394]

Thanks for the advice gonna try and get the stuff ordered by next week

 

[smoothandlow84]

If the rear end sits higher than the front after the drop is installed, you might also try removing the overload spring in the rear leaf pack. The rear end will sit lower, and be a less harsh ride. I have a 5 front and 7 rear drop on my 84 square shortbox. The front consists of a drop spindle and coil, the rear consists of a flip kit, one leaf removed and drop shackles (not hangers). I did also install a mini notch for added clearance. Installing drop shackles and not hangers will require trimming notches into the bed support rails to allow the drop shackles to clearance. There is NO NEED to use drop hangers. Actually, the rear is simpler than the front to lower. Don't forget about the change in shock length ( I went with shorter gas charged shocks instead of shock extension mounts).

If you are running the oem rallys (like I was), the small wheel dia and backspacing will end up rubbing the lower arm and tearing off the inner wheel weights. The p.o. notched the lower arms, which I am dead set against. Cutting too much can weaken the arms. Its worth it imo to run a larger dia. wheel to avoid clearance issues, rather than hacking away at the factory arms just to make something work with a drop spindle. A larger dia wheel gives the truck a lower stance look, with added clearance between the spindles, calipers and arms. If you must run the rallys then reinforce the arm if you absolutely have to notch for clearance. A cut off whell is an easy fix, just not always the best way ...but thats my opinion and its your truck.

Just last weekend I cut out the bed between the fenderwells and installed a tunnel since in the near future it will be bagged starting with the rear, and fully notching the frame. The front factory bumpstops and bracket were cut off and replacement polyurethane stops and lower brackets were fabbed so bottoming out isnt so harsh (metal on metal and shredded tires).


Btw...bodywork continues because paint will be done next month......

One more item to keep in mind is fenderwell clearance up front. I removed my factory fenderwells and installed new fenderwells that are about 4 inches below the hood. The rear fenders arent an issue even running 12 " wide tires on 20" wheels.

definately post progress pics...sub'd

 

[mxracer394]

Good looking truck thanks for the tips

 

[mxracer394]

Alright here is what I'm planning to order.
2.5" western chassis spindles
1" drop western chassis coils springs
5" western chassis flip kit.
What about shocks?

 

[J Knight]

Alright here is what I'm planning to order.
2.5" western chassis spindles
1" drop western chassis coils springs
5" western chassis flip kit.
What about shocks?

Get the western chassis shock extenders for the rear, you can run stock shocks front and rear.

 

[mxracer394]

Alright thanks