Adhesive remover

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ChuckN

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Getting ready to reapply side molding for my ‘81. I bought an eraser wheel, but I’m now looking at the chemical route. I know that acetone will do it but will eat the paint. 3M makes a 38987 adhesive remover, but the old residue is so hard, old and crusty that I have a hard time thinking it would work. Any experience? Thanks in advance.
 

ChuckN

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Wax and grease remover should do it
Any particular product? The 38987 upon test did better than anything else I had in the garage. I did try some bug and tar remover that I had, but it couldn’t compete.
 

mtbadbob

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REAL lacquer thinner & a plastic scraper. Get it to soften, then scrape with plastic scraper. Brake cleaner or wax remover/degreaser should get the remaining residue off. WD-40 also works on a lighter scale.
 

ChuckN

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REAL lacquer thinner & a plastic scraper. Get it to soften, then scrape with plastic scraper. Brake cleaner or wax remover/degreaser should get the remaining residue off. WD-40 also works on a lighter scale.
Thanks! I appreciate it!
 

Dmack

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Any reason you don't want to use the eraser wheel? I used one on the old trim adhesive on a bed I painted and it worked fine.
 

DrvnDrvr

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Eraser wheels work well just have variable speed on the tool. With high rpms it tends to get away from ya. I use a 110v plug after a light dimmer for speed control on a 10000 rpm grinder. Maybe go dremel.
 

SirRobyn0

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REAL lacquer thinner & a plastic scraper. Get it to soften, then scrape with plastic scraper. Brake cleaner or wax remover/degreaser should get the remaining residue off. WD-40 also works on a lighter scale.
This is what we use at the shop (lacquer thinner). And it is what I used to remove the glue from the paint on my Cadillac when I did the vinyl top. It's also what I used when I replaced sections of the trim on my truck. It's also a great cleaner for parts, but you really don't want to get it on your hands as it will dry them out like crazy and definitely use in a well ventilated area. You might as well buy a gallon of the stuff because once you use it, you'll want to have it around for removing other stubborn stuff.
 

ChuckN

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Any reason you don't want to use the eraser wheel? I used one on the old trim adhesive on a bed I painted and it worked fine.
Well, I got a bad arm. This last year I had to replace some broken fence posts after a windstorm and while digging out the old concrete, I gave myself “tennis elbow “ apparently. And it’s a real thing, painful holding anything up with my dominant right hand, and my grip for holding any kind of tool for extended periods of time is pretty weak.
 

Finkaire

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P&S supply has two products: Remove all or SolveX used at the dealer to remove cosmoline from the boat ride years ago. I used used it to remove any grease I might have gotten on the interior. Great stuff!
 

SirRobyn0

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Well, I got a bad arm. This last year I had to replace some broken fence posts after a windstorm and while digging out the old concrete, I gave myself “tennis elbow “ apparently. And it’s a real thing, painful holding anything up with my dominant right hand, and my grip for holding any kind of tool for extended periods of time is pretty weak.
Your not the only one with tennis elbow from not tennis. I have it to, and I have to be careful off repetitive movement with my right arm. Kind of hard to do for a mechanic. Well at this point in my carrier I use a desk at work more that I fix cars, but when I have to do any wrenching I use air or battery tools WAAAAY more than I use to.
 

ChuckN

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Your not the only one with tennis elbow from not tennis. I have it to, and I have to be careful off repetitive movement with my right arm. Kind of hard to do for a mechanic. Well at this point in my carrier I use a desk at work more that I fix cars, but when I have to do any wrenching I use air or battery tools WAAAAY more than I use to.
I hear ya- I have to be really careful too. My buddy had to come over and help me put the wheels back on the other day, too painful. Though 12 ounce curls don’t seem to bother it, lol.
 

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