Accel HEI Super Coil (140003) Magic or Trash

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Ricko1966

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I would say the only thing they really need is lighter advance weight springs. For a truck anyways. Which they supply when you order the distributor.
So how many degrees of timing including vacuum advance do you have at highway cruise? Is that with functional EGR or without EGR? Those numbers need to change with EGR or without EGR,and depending on what heads you are running. And depending on the vehicle,the highway rpms,and the advance springs,you need more or less vacuum advance and some applications it needs to drop out at higher vacuum,drop out sooner to prevent part throttle detonation. I'm sure the street fire is setup just fine for 90 percent of guys,running mild 350s,but I'm also sure it's very generic and would require work to be optimal.
 
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bucket

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See,I suspect they have a very lazy curve, and a vacuum advance that doesn't add much to total,leaving a lot of timing out,so they don't get come backs on detonation issues. That's why I called their tech to see what was really in them and if I could tailor them with readily available parts. I'm sure 99 percent of people put them in,no detonation and their car starts and runs reliably so they are happy. Blind to the fact they've left x? degrees of timing out of the equation that they could benefit by having. I actually only MSD because I value your opinion of the street fire,wanted to see what I was starting with instead of hit and miss chances of finding a usable JY distributor to go through,their tech guy blew that sale.

It's been a long time since I timed one. I would be incredibly shocked if you couldn't tune one with standard HEI springs and vac advance. They have worked good enough for me that I haven't really messed with them. I have got snappy performance out of all of them.

There is nothing really fancy about them at all. The benefit of them is that they are a much higher quality unit than what you would get from the parts store as a stock replacement. If it would help, this weekend I could probably pull a cap off of one and take a couple pictures of the inner bits so you can see what they are made with.
 

Ricko1966

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It's been a long time since I timed one. I would be incredibly shocked if you couldn't tune one with standard HEI springs and vac advance. They have worked good enough for me that I haven't really messed with them. I have got snappy performance out of all of them.

There is nothing really fancy about them at all. The benefit of them is that they are a much higher quality unit than what you would get from the parts store as a stock replacement. If it would help, this weekend I could probably pull a cap off of one and take a couple pictures of the inner bits so you can see what they are made with.
Oh no,I'm not in any need right now,I was but found and bought a good GM HEI that satisfied my needs at the time. If you do ever mess with yours,because you were doing maintenance anyway,I would love to have as much info as possible,like total centrifugal added and at what rpm,can I use GM,Weights,Springs,Eccentrics,Vacuum cans,Coil etc. But again this is not important now,might be helpful in the future,but DO NOT go to any extra effort for me. Thank you for offering.
 
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Dejure

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Snoots, it's about maintenance. Sooner or later, the rotor and cap are going to need replacement.
 

PrairieDrifter

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So how many degrees of timing including vacuum advance do you have at highway cruise? Is that with functional EGR or without EGR? Those numbers need to change with EGR or without EGR,and depending on what heads you are running. And depending on the vehicle,the highway rpms,and the advance springs,you need more or less vacuum advance and some applications it needs to drop out at higher vacuum,drop out sooner to prevent part throttle detonation. I'm sure the street fire is setup just fine for 90 percent of guys,running mild 350s,but I'm also sure it's very generic and would require work to be optimal.
Couldn't tell you. My initial is about 11-12. I haven't touched it in a few years since the msd is good, so I don't remember my total or rpm.

Non egr and stock heads. Streetfire is definitely generic and will work fine for what most people want or need.
 

Dejure

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On passing out on a 12 pack, so a case is a waste, yep, BUT, on the other hand, life is full of examples and proofs what many consider overkill, such as by buying better quality than you need, can be the smart move.

For example:

(1) Putting more expensive, 12 gauge outlets in your house and shop means you're going to go years farther down the road before having to replace them, due to wear.

(2) On my old 69, the points worked, but adding capacitive discharge dropped the point amperage from 7 amps to 200 miliamps, so the points lasted years longer [to the point the lobes wore down before the points fried].

(3) When I rebuilt my kitchen, I could have hung the uppers on the vertical 2x's and called it a day. Since I had the walls open, adding horizontal 2x's between the verticals and to which the uppers could be attached, I feel a lot more comfortable around the 100 pounds of Fiestaware my wife loaded some of the cabinets with.

etc.

I have no clues, yet, as to what year the 350 is in my new 78. It may have ran points. If it had points, it was time for a change. At the time the change was made, what's on there might have been far more than needed, but, well, the above.

Meanwhile, I well understand there are no magic ignition components that last forever, so do want to be able to buy a replacement cap. I just know nothing about the details of the system I have and how prone the manufacturer was to the proprietary replacement part crap.

Sounds like that latter shouldn't be a problem.
 

Dejure

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A point on the "a coil will only fire at a higher voltage. . . " thing.

In all my years of being around electronics, the coils and transformers I worked with were designed for a set voltage. Though that could vary under certain conditions, if a coil was firing at a higher/lower voltage than the original circuit was designed to fire at, it meant something was wrong.

For example, coils work by fighting change. Using a points system example, as the points open, cutting power to the coil, the coil voltage keeps raising, until the voltage can no longer jump the point gap, and until the output voltage can jump the gap of the plug.

For a good running rig, this would happen when the rotor and terminal on the cap are perfectly aligned.

Now, consider my old 97 Astro, or my 01 Accord. Both started eating rotors and caps in a fraction of the miles they did when the rigs were newer.

It was discovered the distributor gears on these rigs wore, going from nice, square teeth to something you could cut a steak with (literally). This problem was repeatedly reported on the Net, but no one explained the "whys and wherefores."

SIDE NOTE: This is, likely, a more common problem than most realize, and justification for a distributor swap a few tens of thousands of miles down the road.

Obviously, sloppy teeth allowed/caused the system to fire at other than during perfect alignment of the rotor and cap terminal. Mindful of this, I remembered what I noted above - coils fight change, which results in the coil output voltage climbing, until the voltage can jump the sparkplug gap, or someplace else in the system, if there are problems.

Since the gap between rotor cap contact and rotor grew, just as with the much lower voltage and amperage points, the voltage grew in the coil, to not only get past the plug gap, but the gap between the distributor contact and roter too. This caused a lot of premature wear on the cap and rotor.

In the end, the coil was firing at a much higher voltage than the system was designed for. It could well have been 10k more than stock.

Even with new, quality plug wires, I could see an aura (which is when all the foregoing (coil voltage raised higher than normal) occurred to me). The quality plug wire dielectric strength was inadequate in relation to the higher voltage from the coil, caused by the fire gap in the distributor rotor and cap.

Upon pulling the distributors and considering the condition of the teeth, compared to photos of new gears, that the distributor firing point had changed over time became obvious.

The new, fairly inexpensive distributors solved all problems, and the rigs went years before needing new caps and rotors.

SIDE NOTE: In light of the abuse the coils took (I could see a bit of aurora thing around the Honda coil), they got changed along with the distributors.
 
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Nardulli

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Well, I have the Accel unit. It is cheaply made, and I was having all manner of issues. I pulled it and replaced it with a GM OE unit. Nothing beats the OEM in my experience. Bought it from GM parts direct online.
 

1lejohn

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I had a fairly new Accel dizzy fail. I think it was the pick up. I replaced it with a FAST brand. It's been good for 2 years.
 

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