86 k10 refrigerant type?
- Thread starter GunMan9
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skysurfer
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Is your system still R12 or has it been converted to R134? Impossible to answer your question with the lack of info provided.
chengny
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That AC Pro charging kit works good on a functioning system that is only low on refrigerant. Just be careful - don't overfill. Add your gas slowly and over a period of days. An overfilled system is just as useless as an underfilled one.
What is the current state of your system? Is it empty or just low?
If empty, has it been exposed to atmosphere (did it have a leak that allowed the entire charge to escape)?
If it has been open to the atmosphere for any length of time you cannot just recharge. You will need to replace the filter/drier and evacuate all moisture and non-condensables (i.e. air) from the sytem.
When the system has been evacuated and shows that it can maintain a deep vacuum you can then add your 134a. Charge is 56 ounces (about 3 1/2 of those 16 oz. cans). You will need to jump the low pressure switch to get the compressor started and allow the initial charge. After you get a couple of cans in replace the connector and let the switch take control.
I have no idea how do I tell
When a conversion is done, a sticker should have been affixed to the system - generally on the evaporator housing.
But it is highly unlikely that you still are running R-12. It was taken off the shelf years ago. If you still have a charge of R-12 in your system it would be a miracle.
There are no mechanical changes made to the A/C system when the conversion to 134a is made.
The R-12 (if still in the system) is recovered. The system is then flushed, fresh oil is added. A new orifice tube and filter/drier are installed. It is then evacuated and recharged with 134a.
All factory components that are reusable. The orifice tube and filter/drier are identical to original and are only changed because they are considered as maintainance parts.
What is the current state of your system? Is it empty or just low?
If empty, has it been exposed to atmosphere (did it have a leak that allowed the entire charge to escape)?
If it has been open to the atmosphere for any length of time you cannot just recharge. You will need to replace the filter/drier and evacuate all moisture and non-condensables (i.e. air) from the sytem.
When the system has been evacuated and shows that it can maintain a deep vacuum you can then add your 134a. Charge is 56 ounces (about 3 1/2 of those 16 oz. cans). You will need to jump the low pressure switch to get the compressor started and allow the initial charge. After you get a couple of cans in replace the connector and let the switch take control.
I have no idea how do I tell
When a conversion is done, a sticker should have been affixed to the system - generally on the evaporator housing.
But it is highly unlikely that you still are running R-12. It was taken off the shelf years ago. If you still have a charge of R-12 in your system it would be a miracle.
There are no mechanical changes made to the A/C system when the conversion to 134a is made.
The R-12 (if still in the system) is recovered. The system is then flushed, fresh oil is added. A new orifice tube and filter/drier are installed. It is then evacuated and recharged with 134a.
All factory components that are reusable. The orifice tube and filter/drier are identical to original and are only changed because they are considered as maintainance parts.
GunMan9
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Also I have no idea how to tell if it is low or not. The picture above of my AC says r12. Is there a certain way to tell if it has been converted
SAATR
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Without an ID sticker there really isn't. R134A uses larger charge fittings than 12, and these are usually left on after a conversion. You low side fitting on the drier does not have a conversion fitting on it, so it may well still be R12, or Freeze 12 which is a cheaper, more environmentally friendly alternative. The best way to check the charge is to connect a set of gauges and see what kind of pressure you have in the system. You can also press the schrader valve in the fitting down with a screwdriver to see if there is any pressure on the system at all. If it's empty, then I would have it evacuated with a vacuum pump and checked for leaks, then converted to 134A.
jake wells
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yes that is a good price get it done.
chengny
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Now, seeing that there is no conversion sticker and no 134a adapters, I would say your system has never been converted.
But, is the A/C system not working at all? Is it working but not performing to spec?
Before you pay for an unnecessary procedure you might try this quick evaluation of your system. It won't tell you whether it contains R-12 or 134a. But it will give you a good idea of it's overall condition and whether you are looking at extensive repairs in addition to the conversion.
First do what SAATR says - pull the dust cap of the service port on the receiver and depress the schrader valve pin. If the system still has any refrigerant in it some will squirt out.
If nothing comes out, stop and go get the conversion done- the system has been exposed to atmosphere and is contaminated with moisture and air.
They shop will (or should anyway) flush the system, change the oil, evacuate and then recharged with 134a.
If you do find some refrigerant remaining in the system:
Next check compressor function by jumping the low pressure switch. The switch is on the receiver shell - the rubber connector that has 2 wires attaches to it. Pull the connector off and stick a bent piece of wire into the 2 slots to simulate a closed switch. This is best done with the engine running.
As the wire is jumped across the terminals look over at the compressor. When the jumper connects the terminals, the clutch plate should pull in and begin turning along with the drive pulley.
If it does pull in and start driving the compressor, reach over and feel the low side tubing (the large aluminum pipe that comes out of the evaporator casing and goes into the receiver).
If there is some refrigerant in the system, and the compressor is pumping, the line should begin to cool down.
At that point you will at least know that you have a functioning system. If it does not operate normally, the problem could be that is just needs a charge or the low pressure switch is bad.
But, is the A/C system not working at all? Is it working but not performing to spec?
Before you pay for an unnecessary procedure you might try this quick evaluation of your system. It won't tell you whether it contains R-12 or 134a. But it will give you a good idea of it's overall condition and whether you are looking at extensive repairs in addition to the conversion.
First do what SAATR says - pull the dust cap of the service port on the receiver and depress the schrader valve pin. If the system still has any refrigerant in it some will squirt out.
If nothing comes out, stop and go get the conversion done- the system has been exposed to atmosphere and is contaminated with moisture and air.
They shop will (or should anyway) flush the system, change the oil, evacuate and then recharged with 134a.
If you do find some refrigerant remaining in the system:
Next check compressor function by jumping the low pressure switch. The switch is on the receiver shell - the rubber connector that has 2 wires attaches to it. Pull the connector off and stick a bent piece of wire into the 2 slots to simulate a closed switch. This is best done with the engine running.
As the wire is jumped across the terminals look over at the compressor. When the jumper connects the terminals, the clutch plate should pull in and begin turning along with the drive pulley.
If it does pull in and start driving the compressor, reach over and feel the low side tubing (the large aluminum pipe that comes out of the evaporator casing and goes into the receiver).
If there is some refrigerant in the system, and the compressor is pumping, the line should begin to cool down.
At that point you will at least know that you have a functioning system. If it does not operate normally, the problem could be that is just needs a charge or the low pressure switch is bad.
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chengny
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No - the $150 is only the quote for an R-12 to 134a conversion.
I'm sure that price doesn't include any additional parts/repairs.
These systems are very basic and the components are well built. So assuming that nothing else is required, the conversion should cost as estimated.
I only included that check procedure to save you from bringing it in for a simple conversion and then getting hit with a big "Oh, by the way" charge to restore operation.
Good luck.
Note: when converted to 134a from R-12, the refrigerant charge (as indicated on the factory sticker) should be reduced. It can be dialed in, but a general starting charge with 134a is 80% of the R-12 weight as indcated on the sticker.
I'm sure that price doesn't include any additional parts/repairs.
These systems are very basic and the components are well built. So assuming that nothing else is required, the conversion should cost as estimated.
I only included that check procedure to save you from bringing it in for a simple conversion and then getting hit with a big "Oh, by the way" charge to restore operation.
Good luck.
Note: when converted to 134a from R-12, the refrigerant charge (as indicated on the factory sticker) should be reduced. It can be dialed in, but a general starting charge with 134a is 80% of the R-12 weight as indcated on the sticker.
Driver4r
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Sorry to get to the party late, but your truck is r-12. And r-12 is about 75-100 bucks a can right now, and if you charge the system with 134, you run the risk of leaking it out easily, cause the makup of 134 is alot less dense, so it might slip thrue the hoses that were made for the more dense r-12.
