86 K10 5.3 swap

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Camar068

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1986
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K10/LM7 5.3/4L60e/np208/3.73/32"
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10 yrs Air Force
shew.....tedious work on the fuse block today. I'll hit the harness side later this weekend. I've got a few boxes just not sure how it's gonna look when it's done. The boxes are at work, but I need to drop by to get the pulse generator anyway to test/clean the injectors. I'll slap up some pics tomorrow.

I've got one "U" shaped box and a full enclosure (both aluminum free from work). I was thinking maybe stack them and use one for excess harness and the other for the fuse box. I need to take my time on it cuz once they're cut there's no going back.

[edit] Listening to Pink Floyd Pulse helped get through the block. I'll have to put on Maggot Brain for the rest as I know it works for tedious work.
 

Honky Kong jr

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shew.....tedious work on the fuse block today. I'll hit the harness side later this weekend. I've got a few boxes just not sure how it's gonna look when it's done. The boxes are at work, but I need to drop by to get the pulse generator anyway to test/clean the injectors. I'll slap up some pics tomorrow.

I've got one "U" shaped box and a full enclosure (both aluminum free from work). I was thinking maybe stack them and use one for excess harness and the other for the fuse box. I need to take my time on it cuz once they're cut there's no going back.

[edit] Listening to Pink Floyd Pulse helped get through the block. I'll have to put on Maggot Brain for the rest as I know it works for tedious work.
The Final Cut usually helps me relax.
 

Camar068

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1986
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K10/LM7 5.3/4L60e/np208/3.73/32"
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10 yrs Air Force
well crap, it's a multi-function counter not a pulse generator. No biggie, just thought I'd be able to have a little "cool factor" while testing them. I did notice that amazon has some cheap ($25) ultrasonic cleaners. May nab one for this.
 

Camar068

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K10/LM7 5.3/4L60e/np208/3.73/32"
Engine Size
10 yrs Air Force
cleaned out the oil fill tank today. All I need now is a fitting to go into the block on the LS and a drain on the tank that has a barb. Only needs to handle about 20-30 psi. I'll pick those up when I go to get the tap to thread the trans adapter for the VSS sensor tomorrow.

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Camar068

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got the fittings I needed. It works great. Only took 1.5 minutes to pump 5 qts at 25 psi. I used a Seadoo filter from amazon ($7) and a water trap from work prior to it. I'll probably throw in something inside the water trap screen. I'm thinking rolled up scotch brite.

I've got the tap, had to order drill bits big enough to do the trans adapter VSS. They'll be here Monday.

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Camar068

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I've got the adapter mounted in the vice on the drill press at work. I wanted to double check the distance from the edge before I drilled. This should be off my list tomorrow. I spent a lot of time making sure it was level/square in the vice. My plan is to thread the inside ring on the adapter. If it's not straight and won't work, I'll just woller it out like Jchevy33 did and call it a day. Cross fingers picks tomorrow.

Recieved small $15 pulse generator. Has 2 outputs with frequency and duty cycle adjustments. I'll use that to hook up to a relay to control the injectors to measure the output after I clean them. Hopefully it has enough current to control a relay.

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Camar068

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10 yrs Air Force
Installed speed sensor. I went in from the top. Hopefully enough room above for the connector. Read somewhere there needs to be a 0.030" gap between the wheel and the sensor. Mine is ~35-40....couldn't find my feeler gauge so I used business cards (0.015"). 30 was loose and 45 wouldn't go in.

So in the end:

-$27 for the big ass drill bit set (needed 13/56 for the die, and 1" for the outside whole....had to wholler a bit)
-$20 for the 22x1.5 tap
-$20 for various aluminum tubing (only needed one size)
-$25 for sensor
-$6 for reluctor wheel

If you have some of this stuff laying around it should be cheaper. I don't count the drill bits as I can use them later.....lol possibly the tap but I doubt it.

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Camar068

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-Soldered the pigtails for each fan with a thermistor on each positive to control current spikes

-Took out tail light and cut "excess" metal out of the way so I could work on the tail light hinge for the fuel filler.. Did it in such a way I could mount the tail light utilizing 2 screws (how it was before lol....relocated ground). This allows the lights to still function until I figure out mounting the hinge and positioning the filler.

-ultrasonic cleaner on the way. I'm thinking I'll build a small gas tank and run it the same as the air compressor "LS oil prime method" to clean/test the injectors.
 
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Camar068

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10 yrs Air Force
Saw an old APC battery back up and really liked the grooves and rounded edges on it. I've been looking for a box to wrap up excess wiring and hide. Whats cool is the fuse box I have will fit in the smaller compartment. I'll either take Plas-t-pair to the power outlets or just fill it with fiberglass resin and slap some paint on it.

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Camar068

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10 yrs Air Force
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Camar068

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K10/LM7 5.3/4L60e/np208/3.73/32"
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10 yrs Air Force
Got the hinge mounted an bent backjust past the tail light. I can mount the tail light with the hinge installed. Now time to figure out a way to get the two together.

If someone wanted to make some money on the side, they could make an insert out of metal thats screwed into the the 4 holes the tail lights mount to. Then you could screw it in place after ur hinge is installed.....weld in place. Remove screws and mount the tail light with shorts screws to the new plate u installed.
 

Honky Kong jr

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Saw an old APC battery back up and really liked the grooves and rounded edges on it. I've been looking for a box to wrap up excess wiring and hide. Whats cool is the fuse box I have will fit in the smaller compartment. I'll either take Plas-t-pair to the power outlets or just fill it with fiberglass resin and slap some paint on it.

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Next time your at a yard lift the driver side front carpet. They have plastic boxes under there that hold the comfort control module. If it's automatic there will also be one on the passenger side. 98 and newer.

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Honky Kong jr

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Got the hinge mounted an bent backjust past the tail light. I can mount the tail light with the hinge installed. Now time to figure out a way to get the two together.

If someone wanted to make some money on the side, they could make an insert out of metal thats screwed into the the 4 holes the tail lights mount to. Then you could screw it in place after ur hinge is installed.....weld in place. Remove screws and mount the tail light with shorts screws to the new plate u installed.
Awsome job on the door!!
 

Camar068

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Truck Model
K10/LM7 5.3/4L60e/np208/3.73/32"
Engine Size
10 yrs Air Force
oh.....nice and slim.

Gonna play with the tail light idea I mentioned above tomorrow. The hinge isn't attached to the light yet. I like the idea I mentioned above better.....plus if it's easy enough I'll slap up the dimensions etc to cut your own. The pics seems like "rigging" compared to what I mentioned afterwards. Virtually no alignment required....installing the hinge the way you like it would be the hardest part.
 

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