82 c10 350, not getting any spark

[dallastx74]

I have a 82 Chevy c10 , just purchased the truck it was running well. Stoped at the store and went to turn it back on it wouldn't start. Checked to see if i was getting fuel, plenty of fuel, checked for spark, no spark.... Checked the distributor and rotor it was all black and burnt so i replaced them and still no spark. Can someone please help me out on what to do next,i don't want to go broke replacing everything, just would love to get back running again...your time and effort is greatly appreciated

 

[gpmorgan]

It's probably going to be the ignition module. It's located in the dist. remove cap and rotor. There are 2 screws that hold it in. It has a plug on each end of it. The new one will come with a small tube of thermo-compound to be applied to the bottom of the new module.

 

[MrMarty51]

If cap an rotor`s burnt and sootey black, that is caused from a high rate of resistance in the going bad sparking plugs or the sparking plugs wires.
Must replace to fix this pwoblem.

 

[gpmorgan]

Usually "black sooting" is caused by the contact between the metal tang on the center of the rotor and the carbon plunger in the center of the cap that connects to the coil via the coil spring. Excessive "sooting" can be caused by the tang being bent outward to much causing more friction. Since you have replaced the cap and rotor, that shouldn't be the issue.

 

[dallastx74]

It's probably going to be the ignition module. It's located in the dist. remove cap and rotor. There are 2 screws that hold it in. It has a plug on each end of it. The new one will come with a small tube of thermo-compound to be applied to the bottom of the new module.

OK i will change the module out next and will let you know if it fires up or not

 

[dallastx74]

If cap an rotor`s burnt and sootey black, that is caused from a high rate of resistance in the going bad sparking plugs or the sparking plugs wires.
Must replace to fix this pwoblem.

I well also change the plus and wires...was going to do that anyway because the truck had been sitting up before i bought it for six months, as well as the oil and filter

 

[gpmorgan]

Oh yeah, welcome to the forum Dallas.

 

[towjoe]

I learned a long time ago to carry a spare ignition modual and a nut driver to change it in glove box. About as important as having a spare tire.

 

[RetroC10Sport]

Me too, Joe. I will second that.

 

[Irishman999]

It sounds like ignition module totally but if that does not fix it try a couple things I have encountered with my HEI.

There is a ground strap, small flat piece of metal that goes from the outside of the metal part of your coil down through the plug part of your plastic distributor cap. That is the ground, its easy to lose if you are not paying attention. I managed to lose mine at one point and it was a headache to diagnose. The truck would start and run, and sometimes it wouldn't.

Other thing that will kill your spark is the knock sensor system. If there is a pigtail coming out of your distributor with 4 wires your truck has the system. When the system ***** out on you the truck will lose spark. The fix is easy, the system is not even needed. All it does is detect pinging caused by low octane fuel and retards the timing a little bit. You can pull the plug, cut two wires on the distributor side and splice them together to eliminate it. I cant remember which two wires you splice together but its easy to find online.

As far as your plug wires, I highly suggest the Accel build your own kit. I purchased 3 plug wire sets by different manufacturers for my 85 and for whatever reason there was always one wire that was too short. You can find a crimper on ebay for like 10 bucks, after the set I got for my big block I am never going back.

 

[dallastx74]

OK i will change the module out next and will let you know if it fires up or not

Quick update changed the module out still no spark, there's only a couple more things i can think of....pick up coil or coil that's on top..is there a way i can test the coil on top before i just change it out or should i just opt out for a new distributor? Idk maybe i need to replace them plugs and wires...any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[dallastx74]

Oh yeah, welcome to the forum Dallas.

Thanks gpmorgan

 

[gpmorgan]

Do you have a volt meter or test light? If so, check and make sure you have 12 volts at the coil positive wire when the key is in the "on" position. I think it is the red or pink wire at the dizzy.

 

[dallastx74]

Do you have a volt meter or test light? If so, check and make sure you have 12 volts at the coil positive wire when the key is in the "on" position. I think it is the red or pink wire at the dizzy.

I don't have one but I'm going to look into one....if the distributor still gets no power what might be the problem?

 

[gpmorgan]

If there is no voltage on the wire at the dizzy, I would check the fuses. If all are good, it would have to be a wiring problem or a bad ign switch. When you changed the cap, did you get the coil ground strap, spring, and carbon button back in correctly? If there is voltage on the wire then yes the coil may be bad.