79 Trans am

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Swims350

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view from the top and bottom and then inside the 1/4's and such.
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Swims350

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Swims350

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these are the pass. 1/4 inside the door vent and then the inner part that's got the holes. The lower bottom was replaced and you can see it and that's where I saw patch work on the inner wheel house from the previous owner.

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Swims350

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driver's inner 1/4 you can see they patched the 1/4 outside at one point

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Swims350

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the rear pan that had bad scale I just sprayed over it with cheap black to try and keep it from further rust until I can treat it.
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Swims350

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Swims350

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^^^^ those were the ones I found from the body shop you can see the slapped over bondo inside the wheel well
 

Swims350

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I knew they had repaired the lower valance area and the front fenders in front and rear on DS and rear on PS, some door work and decklid, but didn't know about the outer 1/4 except for the inner wheel house area and the lower 1/4 on one side I saw had rust in the previous pics.

It looks like I'm gonna have to get some por15 down inside them holes to try and seal up the innder 1/4's and down bottom because it shows some rust.
 

4WDKC

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interior is going back white with either black dash, console, carpet, and belts or dark carmine red as it was stock. The car was also red stock, no I'm not a huge stock fan, but I always talk of painting something red and like it, so it's going to be a bright red almost orange or a dark orange almost red LOL.

Oh I thought I remembered it had red interior for some reason. Black panels white seats?
 

Swims350

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Oh I thought I remembered it had red interior for some reason. Black panels white seats?


it does or did lol it's weird.

The car factory was white or oyster seats, door panels, headliner and most trim, with carmine seat belts, dash console and carpet. W

what it is right now is red dyed seats, black carpet, black dyed console, red seat belts, faded and cracked red dash, one white door panel brand new, one brand new white door panel dyed red, like the seats.

I was going to do all white seats, door panels, headliner and rear trim, then black or red carpet, dash, console, and kick panels.

similar to his from google...

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Swims350

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welding up the holes is not an option my wire brush on my grinder turned it into swiss cheese like I figured it would. I'm gonna have to patch it. There's alot and in alot of areas so I may need a front pass. pan, or do the whole side and replace their rusty rear one that's not down on the crossmember.
 

bucket

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So how are the rear rails on this thing? Hopefully those are good and you are ahead of the game at least a little bit.
 

Swims350

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So how are the rear rails on this thing? Hopefully those are good and you are ahead of the game at least a little bit.


from what I saw the rails in back are nice, the trunk and the rest of the floors pretty decent as well but who knows if I get to diging more I may find more that's bad if so she'll be going down the road again
 

Swims350

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I'm gonna have to get it up higher, get under it and really go over everything good to check and see what's rusty what's bad rust and what's not so bad, to see where I stand I guess.

I think next up I'm gonna need to remove the glass, if I'm gonna have to skin the roof ( if I can find one cheap) and get in there to do a floor pan I'd rather not risk my glass, even though I know you can get welding paper and put on em. The rear has never been removed but the front is brand new glass.
 

Swims350

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well I had done more digging into this rust BS and of course found more/got worse. The pass. front pan has swiss cheese holes around the size ofa pencil eraser all over, pits that are bad, and all seems to be from the topside.

The pan the put in back on the PS, well it's not spot welded to the floor support brace, in fact the front is like 1/2-3/4 inch off it and in back it's 1/4-1/2 inch off it. So I think a full pan from toeboard to rear seat is in order, removed their crap and install full pan. Or I can do a front piece and a rear as the section inbetween over the front brace is fine.

The DS is not bad, I found one tip pin hole in the rear around the size of a pen end, like 1/16 of an inch or so, barely noticeable. The front where the firewall brace runs behind the toeboard, the actual toeboard has some holes, not bad and not thru as the firewall piece is behind it.

Now the NEW BAD, pass. rear frame torque box area has some kinda bad rust, scale pits, some swelling and bursting out of metal on bottom. I saw no holes just that spil from where rust got in between the layers and caused it to swell and split or seperate. I also noticed that entire rail going to the back had some bad rust scale on it. Not sure what I'll do, thinking wire brush by hand or drill and por-15.

I am also strongly thinking of aking a "tip over" jig from wood for it, as some have done on youtube or fb for their 2nd gen f bodys, Since poor boys got poor ways, I got no concrete floor except out in the carport, and no money for no $800 dollar store bought rotissere, nor can I build my own with steel because of my lack of welding.... LOL I think this wood deal may be my only really good option to really get in there, clean it, fix it treat it etc. Plus it'd be easier then trying to lay under it, or jack one end or one side high enough to do anything. It will let it lay vertical like 90 degrees on the side, like a store bought deal, but only that position, which is perfect for me. I'll have to do some more research on materials and some looking at mine and go from there. I wanted to do the same on the camaro, but then wanted a 4wd squarebody bad, and then couldn't have 2 projects, one being neglected etc. Then sold it to Andy, then found the bad crap on the square, and just stumbled into the TA, now back to the same old BS as before. I think I'm being punished for not just fixing the camaro. I can't seem to get away from frame issues.
 

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