Vbb199
B-rate Hillbilly Customs
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2018
- Posts
- 9,040
- Reaction score
- 15,333
- Location
- Salisbury NC
- First Name
- Vince
- Truck Year
- 89, 79
- Truck Model
- 89 Suburban R1500, 79 C10
- Engine Size
- 350, 502
Yes, you read that right, im putting out a feeler post and willing to discuss offers and such for it.
My 1979 c10 ive worked on tirelessly over the past years with lots and lots of work. Here goes the full layout of work, money invested, etc.
I wont get down to every single little detail unless specifically requested.
1979 c10, custom deluxe, non ac, manual windows and locks.
Body looks like complete ****, and its pretty ate up in the rockers, A pillar floor areas, bed, lowers of fenders, hood, and tailgate. I didnt buy it for looks. I bought it rip ass.
Originally a 250 straight 6 truck, with a 3 on the tree. 3.08 open diff 12b.
If youre dying to have the oe driveline, i can get the line on the 3 speed. I havw the straight 6, carb, and the OE rear end is in there, but built well. 3 speed column i also have. With original documentation on the truck from its purchase in 78. Or whatever year.
Heres the lineup for its present setup:
4 core radiator from a gen 5 truck, dual e fans wired into the holley efi. Stays down at 190 on hot days.
Big block 502. Holley sniper efi. Yes it works, no it isnt garbage. Yes its tuned.
Throws you back in the seat, rips your fkn head off, outruns bro trucks. Makes more torque than your daddy's big block. Probably has less than 10,000 miles. Im gonna be honest and say even less than 5000 but i dont know. Its sat longer than its actually ran. But it has been broken in
HEI distributor, but i locked the weights out, gutted it, and turned it into a pulse signal for the holley, and the holley now fires the coil thru the HEI. So timing is programmed for it.
Th400 trans, with around a 2500 stall. I ended up having to put adjust my throttle am ratio because the thing just broke tires loose with a thump of the pedal. Its a real neck snatcher. I got a pretty expansive build list on the 400, but it should withstand 800hp. I dunno about the cast input and output after that.
Driveline is brand new, built to spec 1350 driveshaft with spicer 1350 yokes, as well as a spicer 1350 output on the th400.
1350 input flange from strange i think on the 12 bolt.
Rear end is the truck 12 bolt.
OE axle shafts, however the internals is a True Trac from eaton. Yukon 3.73 r/p. I have a spec sheet for my final clearances on that build if you want it.
Ive wrenched the **** out of it with those slicks a couple times and its never given me trouble. Not here to lie and tell anyone ive never beaten the piss out of my own truck. I like fun, not stupidity that costs money.
The rear end is all new bearings and seals, inner and out. New brake hardware. The OE drum shoes. Before you puke, know that the drum shoes on it arent shoes you can buy at ANY store, and this is a downside.
Within my business, we have customer who makes aftermarket, military, and high performance brakes of ALL sizes. I had them custom make these shoes and the material put on them. That said, theyre significantly more effective at stopping than any OEM shoe pad.
Any OEM shoe will fit the drums tho. All new drum hardware. All new cylinders, rubber lines, etc.
Oe booster... its manual brakes. They work well enough to lock all 4 down. Yes its dangerous. Most everyone on this website has probably had manual brakes.
Gas tank and fuel system is as follows : brand new 87 fuel cell, with a walbro 450 fuel pump in it, with steel core ethanol rated fuel line with AN fittings and such up to the sniper.
Its been dropped by yours truely.
1.5 revolutions cut out of both front coils, the rear end was flipped on top of the leaf springs, with brand new shocks, and a panhard bar welded from the frame to the axle to keep side to side movement down, and theres 1 single trac bar tied from frame to axle to keep axle wrap down.
Ive had the truck up to 135mph before. It felt better than almost every modern pile of **** (pre 2010) ive driven. Wasnt shaking, wasnt wandering. Wasnt bouncing.
Front end is all new balljoints and brake pads, but im gonna be honest and tell you the bearings, rotors, and calipers are all OE, but i bled them all out and got them functioning in unison. So take that however you wish.
Thats most of the information on it, just yesterday i fired it up after sitting for 2 or 3 months, and moved it and let it run. I just dont mess with it anymore.
The downside is the rear ends got some lame ass, second hand drag slicks that are approximately 30" or so tall. 12.5 wide. For a 15" wheel, on some nasty car wheels.
I had to do some cutting and tucking in the rear fender wells to make that fit and not rub.
I can share many more pictures, details, and whatever else you want. But this is the general overall spec list.
If this is something an individual would he serious about, you can DM me directly, and we can talk on the phone, or whatever you want.
Im located in salisbury NC, 28147.
Concerning a price, i dont even really know what to list this thing for. I feel like i'd have to have a minimum of 15 grand to feel like i didnt get the shaft.
Make me an offer, if this is something you are interested in reader.
Heres the actual thread on it... i dont have pictures at the minute i can immediately share, but i have these in the thread itself.
Thanks
My 1979 c10 ive worked on tirelessly over the past years with lots and lots of work. Here goes the full layout of work, money invested, etc.
I wont get down to every single little detail unless specifically requested.
1979 c10, custom deluxe, non ac, manual windows and locks.
Body looks like complete ****, and its pretty ate up in the rockers, A pillar floor areas, bed, lowers of fenders, hood, and tailgate. I didnt buy it for looks. I bought it rip ass.
Originally a 250 straight 6 truck, with a 3 on the tree. 3.08 open diff 12b.
If youre dying to have the oe driveline, i can get the line on the 3 speed. I havw the straight 6, carb, and the OE rear end is in there, but built well. 3 speed column i also have. With original documentation on the truck from its purchase in 78. Or whatever year.
Heres the lineup for its present setup:
4 core radiator from a gen 5 truck, dual e fans wired into the holley efi. Stays down at 190 on hot days.
Big block 502. Holley sniper efi. Yes it works, no it isnt garbage. Yes its tuned.
Throws you back in the seat, rips your fkn head off, outruns bro trucks. Makes more torque than your daddy's big block. Probably has less than 10,000 miles. Im gonna be honest and say even less than 5000 but i dont know. Its sat longer than its actually ran. But it has been broken in
HEI distributor, but i locked the weights out, gutted it, and turned it into a pulse signal for the holley, and the holley now fires the coil thru the HEI. So timing is programmed for it.
Th400 trans, with around a 2500 stall. I ended up having to put adjust my throttle am ratio because the thing just broke tires loose with a thump of the pedal. Its a real neck snatcher. I got a pretty expansive build list on the 400, but it should withstand 800hp. I dunno about the cast input and output after that.
Driveline is brand new, built to spec 1350 driveshaft with spicer 1350 yokes, as well as a spicer 1350 output on the th400.
1350 input flange from strange i think on the 12 bolt.
Rear end is the truck 12 bolt.
OE axle shafts, however the internals is a True Trac from eaton. Yukon 3.73 r/p. I have a spec sheet for my final clearances on that build if you want it.
Ive wrenched the **** out of it with those slicks a couple times and its never given me trouble. Not here to lie and tell anyone ive never beaten the piss out of my own truck. I like fun, not stupidity that costs money.
The rear end is all new bearings and seals, inner and out. New brake hardware. The OE drum shoes. Before you puke, know that the drum shoes on it arent shoes you can buy at ANY store, and this is a downside.
Within my business, we have customer who makes aftermarket, military, and high performance brakes of ALL sizes. I had them custom make these shoes and the material put on them. That said, theyre significantly more effective at stopping than any OEM shoe pad.
Any OEM shoe will fit the drums tho. All new drum hardware. All new cylinders, rubber lines, etc.
Oe booster... its manual brakes. They work well enough to lock all 4 down. Yes its dangerous. Most everyone on this website has probably had manual brakes.
Gas tank and fuel system is as follows : brand new 87 fuel cell, with a walbro 450 fuel pump in it, with steel core ethanol rated fuel line with AN fittings and such up to the sniper.
Its been dropped by yours truely.
1.5 revolutions cut out of both front coils, the rear end was flipped on top of the leaf springs, with brand new shocks, and a panhard bar welded from the frame to the axle to keep side to side movement down, and theres 1 single trac bar tied from frame to axle to keep axle wrap down.
Ive had the truck up to 135mph before. It felt better than almost every modern pile of **** (pre 2010) ive driven. Wasnt shaking, wasnt wandering. Wasnt bouncing.
Front end is all new balljoints and brake pads, but im gonna be honest and tell you the bearings, rotors, and calipers are all OE, but i bled them all out and got them functioning in unison. So take that however you wish.
Thats most of the information on it, just yesterday i fired it up after sitting for 2 or 3 months, and moved it and let it run. I just dont mess with it anymore.
The downside is the rear ends got some lame ass, second hand drag slicks that are approximately 30" or so tall. 12.5 wide. For a 15" wheel, on some nasty car wheels.
I had to do some cutting and tucking in the rear fender wells to make that fit and not rub.
I can share many more pictures, details, and whatever else you want. But this is the general overall spec list.
If this is something an individual would he serious about, you can DM me directly, and we can talk on the phone, or whatever you want.
Im located in salisbury NC, 28147.
Concerning a price, i dont even really know what to list this thing for. I feel like i'd have to have a minimum of 15 grand to feel like i didnt get the shaft.
Make me an offer, if this is something you are interested in reader.
Heres the actual thread on it... i dont have pictures at the minute i can immediately share, but i have these in the thread itself.
Thanks
