74 k10 bed not level

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Oregon
First Name
grant
Truck Year
1974
Truck Model
k10
Engine Size
350
my 74 full time 4x4 k10s bed is unlevel, on the passenger side it is higher than the trim and body lines ect. The left side looks normal, what could be causing this? It’s not the frame I know that much. Here’s some pictures.
 

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FireTruck1984

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So it’s like this when sitting on level pavement?, It may not be the bed But worn body mounts/Cab mounts ? IDK just a thought.

Park it on perfectly level pavement, Take some measurements.
Ground to wheel Arch, Ground to Frame, Check for level on front of Bed and top of tailgate.
 

scrap--metal

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My guess would be a rotted out cab mount on the passenger side of your cab.

Usually the lowest "thing" is where the problem is. Gravity is a powerful force. Things usually don't become unlevel by defying gravity.
 

TotalyHucked

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I would start by checking your rear cab bushings and the cab mounts they sit on first. It's not uncommon for the bed on these to not be dead square all the way around but there's a big difference in heights there. And 4x4s use a taller cab bushing so the effect is worse when they start to fail.
 

SquareRoot

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A second lady friend on the passenger side should even things out. Of course my ex didn't agree with my logic. :shrug:
 
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grant
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Engine Size
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Okay, I will check the body mounts. I watched a video on replacing them the other day and in the video the guy cut a small square on the floor to get to a nut. Is that something that is required? I’d rather not cut through the floor if I don’t have to.
 
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grant
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1974
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k10
Engine Size
350
A second lady friend on the passenger side should even things out. Of course my ex didn't agree with my logic. :shrug:
Haha wouldn’t that make the bed appear more unlevel if it is indeed the cab mount?
 

TotalyHucked

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Okay, I will check the body mounts. I watched a video on replacing them the other day and in the video the guy cut a small square on the floor to get to a nut. Is that something that is required? I’d rather not cut through the floor if I don’t have to.
That's only if the bolt spins and won't come out. There's basically a nut/nutplate under the floor there that has a couple spot welds on it, the bolt screws into that. Sometimes if the bolt is super rusted in there, it'll pop those spot welds and just spin the nut with it. When that happens, you have to cut access holes in the floor. Start spraying a penetrating oil up in there several times over a few days before you attempt to pull the bolts out. Might even just throw some heat on them before you even start as well, certainly can't hurt
 
Joined
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grant
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1974
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k10
Engine Size
350
That's only if the bolt spins and won't come out. There's basically a nut/nutplate under the floor there that has a couple spot welds on it, the bolt screws into that. Sometimes if the bolt is super rusted in there, it'll pop those spot welds and just spin the nut with it. When that happens, you have to cut access holes in the floor. Start spraying a penetrating oil up in there several times over a few days before you attempt to pull the bolts out. Might even just throw some heat on them before you even start as well, certainly can't hurt
Okay I will do that, thank you.
 

75gmck25

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I was able to replace the cab mounts on my ‘75 in the driveway using a small hydraulic jack for support and hand tools to remove the bolts. I was lucky and none of the bolts were fully rusted in place.

The one pair of PIA to remove bolts were the two at the radiator support. There was no good angle for my wrenches to turn them and I ended up buying some special sockets at Lowe’s that finally worked.
 

PrairieDrifter

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Tires the same size? Sacked out suspension will cause this as well as body mounts. A twisted frame is pretty much the only other option. Also parked on not flat ground will only enhance the problem.
 

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