700r4 gear hunting

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Johnathan S

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I have a rebuilt 700r4 and it’s “hunting” between 3rd and 4th gear. I’ve been reading up on it trying to figure out what could fix it and can’t seem to find a definite answer, I see that it’s apparently a common problem on F body Camaros. It’s not that big a deal it’s just annoying. It does not have a Torque converter lockup my old 700r4 does so I’m thinking about taking that solenoid out of the old one and putting it in the rebuilt and see what that does. But if anyone has suggestions I’d appreciate it
 

HotRodPC

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I have a feeling you have a tall gear in the truck huh? 3.08s maybe. Some 3.42, 3.73 or 4.10's should take care of that. Otherwise, I'd just use 3rd and then 4th on the freeway for 65mph or more.
 

C10MixMaster

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I have a rebuilt 700r4 and it’s “hunting” between 3rd and 4th gear. I’ve been reading up on it trying to figure out what could fix it and can’t seem to find a definite answer, I see that it’s apparently a common problem on F body Camaros. It’s not that big a deal it’s just annoying. It does not have a Torque converter lockup my old 700r4 does so I’m thinking about taking that solenoid out of the old one and putting it in the rebuilt and see what that does. But if anyone has suggestions I’d appreciate it


who rebuilt it? if it is a reputable builder they should help you verify everything is set up rite. all 700r4 from the factory were lockup transmissions. was this some racing trans with the lock up removed? alot of times the converter locking and unlocking feels like gear changes. is this 700r4 original to the truck or added later? does the carb have the proper linkage for the 700r4?
 

Johnathan S

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who rebuilt it? if it is a reputable builder they should help you verify everything is set up rite. all 700r4 from the factory were lockup transmissions. was this some racing trans with the lock up removed? alot of times the converter locking and unlocking feels like gear changes. is this 700r4 original to the truck or added later? does the carb have the proper linkage for the 700r4?
I bought the transmission off eBay from a company called ATracing world the other 700r4 is original to the truck the rebuilt one just didn’t come with a lockup it says it’s built for mild street/strip use but the carb/TV cable geometry is is not a straight line it’s about half in inch off
 

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It may have a torque converter that doesn’t have a lockup clutch inside. I’d check with the builder because if you try to swap solenoids, it’d be a waste of time, or the solenoid port may have been capped off anyway.
 

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I bought the transmission off eBay from a company called ATracing world the other 700r4 is original to the truck the rebuilt one just didn’t come with a lockup it says it’s built for mild street/strip use but the carb/TV cable geometry is is not a straight line it’s about half in inch off
So is that geometry throwing your TV cable adjustment off? It's possible that might be your problem. If you're not getting enough pull on the cable, it'll cause earlier shifts and reduced line pressure so it's detecting cruising to early. I'd get that geometry right since you should anyway or you're harming the transmission. TV Cable adjustment is critical on a 700r4 and first thing to burn up is the 3/4 clutch pack.
 

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It may have a torque converter that doesn’t have a lockup clutch inside. I’d check with the builder because if you try to swap solenoids, it’d be a waste of time, or the solenoid port may have been capped off anyway.
Yep, I'd find out of the converter has a TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) in it for lock up and if it does, I'd sure hook it up. It helps keep the transmission cooler and 700r4's need all the help you can give them with heat.
 

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I bought the transmission off eBay from a company called ATracing world the other 700r4 is original to the truck the rebuilt one just didn’t come with a lockup it says it’s built for mild street/strip use but the carb/TV cable geometry is is not a straight line it’s about half in inch off

1/2 inch off? not the factory carb im guessing, if not, this link might help little long winded but good info http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/
 

Johnathan S

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Yep, I'd find out of the converter has a TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) in it for lock up and if it does, I'd sure hook it up. It helps keep the transmission cooler and 700r4's need all the help you can give them with heat.
Yeah I got a Edelbrock AVS2 and an Edelbrock performer intake but I’m using the original throttle cable bracket and TV cable that came with the truck. I have a Edelbrock throttle cable bracket but the hardline going from the back of the carb to the brake booster is in the way so I’m gonna get a hose adapter to just make it a full rubber hose. The Torque converter I bought separate from the transmission it was advertised as “stock stall” for these trucks as far as if it’s a lockup one or not I’m not certain but I’m gonna try and fix the geometry first and see if taht does something
 

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I also was curious about cooling, I have the water cooled trans cooler in the radiator but I’m wondering if an external air cooler would be better since the one in the radiator only cools the transmission fluid as cool as the coolant gets
 

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You need to check with Edelbrock, Jets, Summit, etc. and get the geometry correction kit for 700R4s and I guess 200-4Rs, also. That should account for the differences even when using GM parts. As far as the cooling system goes, the stock setup should be adequate for puddling around, but if you’re hauling, towing, racing, etc., the secondary cooler in series with the radiator cooler would be a good idea. You want the trans temp to be less than or equal to 175*, not ice cold but not burning up. The higher above 200*, the bigger trouble you’ll find yourself in shorter and shorter order.

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Don't worry about the trans cooler for now. You need to get it to shift right first. Cooling or not is not your problem. You can install a trans cooler anytime, it's not your problem right now.

I went through the same hell as you are now. Edlebrock "air gap" manifold with Edlebrock carb. Previous owner jerry-rigged everything, it was all way off, and he had brake and delay switch disconnected and plugged into nothing.

You need to get the correct "Edlebrock" Throttle valve adapter that bolt's onto the carb linkage first of all, I tried making my own to save $15 and I got close but not correct, just spend the $15 and get the Edlebrock one, most all O'riellies and Autozones have them in their "performance" sections, or order it on ebay.

Once you have the TV adapter, you have to get your throttle cable bracket that is bolted to the manifold right as well. You can get aftermarket throttle cable / TV cable bracketts from several different manufacturers, but you can use your factory bracket as long as you mount it as close a possible to where the factory bracket used to be. The factory bracket is actually better, because it does NOT have all the stupid adjustments that will just make things more confusing.

Follow what I am saying here. The carb cable (not the TV cable) does not care where the bracket is, as long as it has enough play to let it rest on the idle stop, and enough play to pull it wide open. The TV cable is adjustable in the bracket, or at least it should be on most ALL 700R4 factory brackets. You MUST learn / know how to adjust the TV cable in the bracket.

Once you snap in the TV cable into the square hole in the factory bracket, you can push up on the bottom of the plastic square dilly and pull it back to put tension on the cable...this tension is critical for the converter to lock up!

Do a search, there are thousands of posts, with diagrams, and pictures on how to adjust the TV cable. YouTube is the best, just look it up. Your factory throttle cable bracket is fine because the intake manifold bolts are still in the factory place, but they may be a bit higher or lower, but that wont matter, the carb does not care where the bracket is, as long as the pull on the throttle is from idle to WOT (wide open throttle). But the trans cable geometry MUST be PERFECT to go into lock up. Go to YouTube and search "700R4 TV cable adjustment".

NEXT! You must have your BRAKE PEDAL release switch hooked up properly. On a 700R4, once you are in Torque Converter Lockup, the torque converter stays locked up until you press on the brake pedal. Some GM cars/truck have TWO switches behind the brake pedal in the cab, (one for the brake lights and one for the TCC) and some just use the brake light switch to DIS-engage the TCC (torque converter clutch). You must make sure that all the VERY simple wiring is hooked up correctly for this to happen, it's not hard, it's just a single wire from the brake light switch to the TCC that makes it happen, and most ALL 700's have this.

It seems complicated at first, but it's really not. There is also a delay switch that will not allow the TCC to lock up until the engine temp comes up, it is wired into the temp gauge, and again VERY simple.

If the previous owner had dicked around with the wiring, or if you have changed stuff not knowing what gets plugged into where, it's not hard to fix, just a few wiring splices and you got it. It is not computer/module stuff, just basic wiring, and bending and adjusting the factory cable bracket to get it RIGHT.

I had to bend my factory throttle/TV bracket quite a bit, and then fabricate a brace out of aluminum. The factory bracket bolted to the inside of the "Edelbrock" manifold vacuum port, and my custom aluminum brace bolted to the 3rd intake bolt from the rear (on the left side of course). I may have had to dremel off part of the factory bracket as I don't remember if this was on my k1500 or my Camaro.

Just do yourself a favor and watch a bunch of youtube videos, it's all there, and I seriously doubt you have a "NON" lock-up converter on your 700R4. Just make sure that you have a tiny bit of play on the TV cable at idle, and that it's nice and tight at full WOT.
 

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bowtie overdrives has a nice ez tv cable system that corrects the geometry needed based on your carb.
higher mileage 700s also hunt between 3/4 when there is wear/pitting on a cylinder in the valve body(IRRC) it also happens on the 4l60E, a bandaid fix is a shift kit to increase the pressure that allows the enough pressure so the 4 stays engaged.
 

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