6.2 porous block?

[CORVAIRWILD]

25 years ago I bought an oil boiler for an apartment building, and the heating coil was leaking from the gasket, so I heated up the nuts and bolts with an oxy acetylene torch, just like I would do on a car, and Snap Crackle Pop, Just Like Rice Krispies, the housing cracked out from the threaded holes. I had just hooked the whole thing up and it was working, so I ground a little bit of the surface, similar to what you did on your 6.2 block, and I cleaned it thoroughly thoroughly thoroughly, and I put in J-B Weld, and it held for 15 heating seasons. Hot cold all winter, and cold all summer, and I only seeped a small amount.

I suppose I could have ground out the J-B Weld and redone it, but it leaked only a tiny amount, maybe a gallon a season I would guesstimate.

So JB Weld is an amazing material, and you have the advantage of my knowledge. You can either pay a professional welder a couple hundred, or try to JB Weld method. And an oil boiler runs up to 180 degrees, just like a diesel engine. Keep in mind that this is on the outside, not as easily accessible as my boiler obviously, but the heat on the outside of the block isn't as intense as it is on the inside. I would also use water wetter, which improves the water-heat transfer rate, and maybe even some K&W block seal. I used that on my 6.5 with 300,000K, and it's slowed down my coolant consumption considerably, that being through a head gasket

 

[84 M1008]

25 years ago I bought an oil boiler for an apartment building, and the heating coil was leaking from the gasket, so I heated up the nuts and bolts with an oxy acetylene torch, just like I would do on a car, and Snap Crackle Pop, Just Like Rice Krispies, the housing cracked out from the threaded holes. I had just hooked the whole thing up and it was working, so I ground a little bit of the surface, similar to what you did on your 6.2 block, and I cleaned it thoroughly thoroughly thoroughly, and I put in J-B Weld, and it held for 15 heating seasons. Hot cold all winter, and cold all summer, and I only seeped a small amount.

I suppose I could have ground out the J-B Weld and redone it, but it leaked only a tiny amount, maybe a gallon a season I would guesstimate.

So JB Weld is an amazing material, and you have the advantage of my knowledge. You can either pay a professional welder a couple hundred, or try to JB Weld method. And an oil boiler runs up to 180 degrees, just like a diesel engine. Keep in mind that this is on the outside, not as easily accessible as my boiler obviously, but the heat on the outside of the block isn't as intense as it is on the inside. I would also use water wetter, which improves the water-heat transfer rate, and maybe even some K&W block seal. I used that on my 6.5 with 300,000K, and it's slowed down my coolant consumption considerably, that being through a head gasket

Thanks for the heads up. There was JB weld on the cracks which was flaking off. I found the JB weld when I was mocking up a starter bracket.

 

[CORVAIRWILD]

Yeah, I saw the J-B Weld. Somebody that JB Weld. Somebody once told me not to use brake clean for surface cleaning, because it has oil residue. He recommended, now what was it? Google it, obviously if you do decide to repair the block, you want the best sealing possibilities.

 

[84 M1008]

Yeah, I saw the J-B Weld. Somebody that JB Weld. Somebody once told me not to use brake clean for surface cleaning, because it has oil residue. He recommended, now what was it? Google it, obviously if you do decide to repair the block, you want the best sealing possibilities.

I'm going to weigh my options. This engine is not in the truck. I'm not going to roll the dice on either welding it or patching the cracks.