6.2 For A Daily Driver? What Are The Downsides?

[Thesiger]

Ive had a M1009 (blazer with a j code 6.2/th400/3.08 gears) for a couple years now.

Downsides:
Diesel is expensive
Loud
Slow (Its possible to accelerate on a hill on the highway but it really just dosent feel like it today.)
6.2 parts are expensive and sometimes hard to find.
Radiator? $400
Replacement oil cooler lines? Expensive and could only find them at hillbillywizard. GM used some proprietary connector.
Injection pump rebuild ($1000?) which is very high on the probability list of reasons why a 6.2 wont run right.
Vaccum pump - hard to find (the same vaccum pod was used on the 7.3 idi so I was able to use on of those).

Upsides:
18-20mpg


Common items you should replace:
crank pulley - the rubber disintegrates and can take out the whole motor when it goes
replace the stock box fuel filters with a spin on filter.
Remove the mechanical fuel pump and replace with an electric pump from a 6.5 (makes priming so much easier! keep a spare electronic pump in the truck)
Two good batteries - Do not try and start a 6.2 with weak batteries you'll just melt the starter solenoid contacts down. (hint a 6.2 starter aint cheap)
Fuel lines need to be checked, any tiny air leak will cause a diesel to stop running or not run.
Be prepared for an injection pump rebuild.
Glow plugs! Learn how to test them and replace the ones that arent working. If they all work you wont have issues starting it if your patient.

Why do the fuse blocks melt? Easy, loose electrical connections create heat. If you have a fuse thats kind of loose in the fuse box it will melt. You can tighten up the connectors by prying on them with a small screwdriver so that the fuse fits snug. Its a 30 year old truck your going to be dealing with loose and corroded electrical connections, and the worst electrical problem of all. Previous owner(s).

Bob, you've given the most comprehensive analysis with all the answers I've been looking for. Thank you so much!

So then what's you're opinion on swaps? Say I have a good working 350 motor in a donor vehicle, would the installation costs out weigh the cost of maintaining the 'ol 6.2? At what point do I start running up against the total value of the rig in repair work? I already know 6.2s, even not super rusty running ones, in my area fetch only 3 to 4K. So at what point do you start putting in more money than its worth? And would a swap improve that value? (Also is the TH400 even compatible with a 350?)

@Itali83 all good points about a rotten 350. And yeah, for this truck I'd be planning to do a LONG distance trip with it, possibly 1,900 miles. Is that even practical?

 

[Originalthor]

The kicker on the 6.2 6.5 diesels is that they are kinda a dying bread. Going to be tougher and tougher to get parts for.

Say on your trip or any trip a part fails sometimes could be a bugger to get.
Now if you built-up the motor with good parts then I wouldn't worry. Not much can go wrong unless its catastrophic failure and your screwed at that point anyway.

Swaps are easily done. Wiring is simple even tbi is simple to adapt to the 6.2 harness. Fuel system probably the biggest hurdle depending on if you go carbed or tbi.

I drove my 350 tbi to Lake every other weekend and went into some fun little fishing spots without any worries once I got all the kinks out of it. 350 are great motors but there are some duds out there thats for sure. And if you break down on the side of the road with a 350 your chances of finding a part for it alot easier.

 

[Carbie]

I have a 1983 Scottsdale 4 wheel drive with a 6.3, I got it 1989 it had got hit. I bought a brand new 6.2 from Chevrolet a 1990 still in the creat.
I drive it all the time I have put over 100,000 miles on it. I have pulled 8 10x12 buildings I built 50 mile up to Bootjack by Mariposa ca from the valley. It had no problem pulling. I pull a 1989 30 5th wheel there also. I just pulled that 5th wheel from there to Mckinleyvill Ca. 450 miles the took it another 400 mile up to prineville Oregon. I have had a few problems, my transmission went out about 20 years ago, I put a 1996 700r4. I like my pickup.

 

[Thesiger]

I guess I'd call you lucky! you've been with your vehicle, and engine, literally since new in the box. You know what you have, and have not done to it, its whole history. Like another guy here was saying, one of the biggest issues buying old trucks is what previous owners have done to them. I guess with mine I do at least know I would be the 3rd owner, first owner was a Montana rancher, and that sounds like a pretty rough existence for a truck. I wish I had the luxury to go back in time and just buy a new pickup in 1989 and religiously maintain it...

 

[alabummy]

I guess both your guys' vehicles are nicer, (Especially @alabummy, that rig is sweeeet) I'd be dealing with a rusty non-runner, Craig I guess I could really learn from what you've done, because I'll probably be dealing with the same problems as you. Have you messed with any of the wiring/wiring harness?

basically the only redeeming factor for the 1990 2500 6.2 'burb I'm looking at is that its SO cheap, (I could possibly get it for $1,000) but I don't want to be burdened with a money pit just because I can pick it up for a low up front price...

Thanks Thesiger. Its all original unrestored. I got it from the original owner from Denver CO. Its in excellent condition in and out. I just turned 96000 miles on it last week. Has every option on the Silverado package. I absolutely love it.

 

[Originalthor]

I will say one thing working on a suburban is fixing rust is not as easy as cab and box. Lots of little things that rust out and there is no replacement parts. Especially in the back end stuff.

That one your looking at doesn't look bad in the front, doors look good and the running boards may have saved the rockers but the back end could be interesting.

Motors and transmission are easily replaceable. Rust sucks

 

[KARL]

I have owned a 6.2 sense 1986. it has 207000mils, with no issues. I pulled a 30ft. 5th wheel from the east coast to the west coast many times. Great engine. Change the oil. install a good turbo and a big Trans cooler on it. It's a K2500 410 gears 4-wheel drive pickup.

 

[Honest Bob]

Look at it this way, if you can get a squarebody for under $2k that is not completely rotten, running or not your probably doing pretty good. Its gonna cost money if you keep the 6.2 and its gonna cost you money if you put a 350 in it. How much its gonna cost depends on your mechanical skills and what you have laying around.

 

[Thesiger]

I will say one thing working on a suburban is fixing rust is not as easy as cab and box. Lots of little things that rust out and there is no replacement parts. Especially in the back end stuff.

That one your looking at doesn't look bad in the front, doors look good and the running boards may have saved the rockers but the back end could be interesting.

Motors and transmission are easily replaceable. Rust sucks

I guess that's a no brainer, good thing you reminded me. when I go to see it later this week, I'll be specifically looking for rust on areas unique to the suburban that I can't replace, if she's rotten in those areas, I will probably pass. from the pictures I've seen though, it looks very clean underneath (except for both lower rear quarters) if that's any indication of the rest.

@Honest Bob Yeah, if I can haggle him to $1,000 or possibly $900, and I see no major indications that she hiding any major issues and not super rusty, I think it could be a very good first project vehicle. I'm setting a budget of around $4,000, (Not including vehicle cost) and when I go to look at it I plan to have a pen and paper and a creeper to roll underneath and I will mark down every issue or possible issue I see. I'll add up the costs to see if its worth it, and then make a decision to to walk away or not. On top of this, I know a local shop that has 3 non-running suburban's I could use for interior and exterior parts for as cheap as 500 bucks. Sound like a plan?

 

[Ricko1966]

If I could snag a half way decent burb body for a grand I wouldn't even be on here chatting with us I'd be driving to get it.

 

[Thesiger]

Hey, look on the bright side. Your south west, I'm in the rust belt, if they're hard for you to find, they're near impossible for me!

 

[rusted nuts]

Better sounding? I disagree completely. There's no better diesel sound than a 2-stroke Detroit, imho.

WHAT???? Can't hear that well,,, Used to drive DD.

 

[Ricko1966]

The cars came off the assembly line rusted out in Kansas. Speaking of which I ran across 2 real deal Impala SSs a 1965 and a 1967 they are so stripped and plenty of rust but real SS cars 1500.00 each IDK how firm he is. You would definitely have to have a beater 65,66 or 67 if any of you want to save one of them.

 

[Thesiger]

So cool. Even if you still have prominent rust there, I still think you guys have WAY better scrap and junk yards. If I want to see stuff similar to that I would have to drive near 200 miles, and I'd pay probably more like 5,000.

 

[Ricko1966]

So cool. Even if you still have prominent rust there, I still think you guys have WAY better scrap and junk yards. If I want to see stuff similar to that I would have to drive near 200 miles, and I'd pay probably more like 5,000.

I had to drive 200 miles to see those.Tiny mom and pop junkyard in the middle of no where.Those two and 2 early 70s cutlass were the only old cars.