4wd ball joint replacement questions

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

hinkv10

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2012
Posts
221
Reaction score
9
Location
ct
First Name
craig
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
v10
Engine Size
350
I thought doing the ball joints of my truck wouldn't be too bad but as usual I've come across a couple unforeseen issues. I'll try to document it in case anyone else comes across this. I replaced the wheel bearings and races and turned the rotors when I bought the truck about a year ago. This is my first 4wd truck that I'm working on so its a bit of a learning curve. My truck is incapsulated with a weird thick mud that dries on to an almost powder coated finish. It laughs at a wire brush and cleaning it is a very slow process.

Anyways my spindle was rust welded to the knuckle. I spent 2 hours trying to separate the two but it laughed at my rubber mallet. It was rusted on the inner part so even after it started to move it didn't want to come out. I watched a you tube video in disbelief after it came off with a light tap. My spindle is shot.

1. where can I buy a new one? Rock auto didn't have anything listed for my 87, just a seal and bearing kit. Which I definitely need two of.

The axle housing if rusty but I think it shouldn't matter. Doesn't seem to be hurting anything and after some new spindle bearings and seals, should be fixed. But any advice is appreciated. I'm going to press out and in the new ball joints today and then take apart the other side. My ujoints should be here tomorrow and I'll tacket that on the front axles. Anything else you see that I should be doing when I'm in there? Thanks in advance
 

Attachments

  • jan 12,14 005.jpg
    jan 12,14 005.jpg
    91.1 KB · Views: 125
  • jan 12,14 006.jpg
    jan 12,14 006.jpg
    95.2 KB · Views: 127
  • jan 12,14 008.jpg
    jan 12,14 008.jpg
    81.2 KB · Views: 128
  • jan 12,14 011.jpg
    jan 12,14 011.jpg
    98.8 KB · Views: 135

hinkv10

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2012
Posts
221
Reaction score
9
Location
ct
First Name
craig
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
v10
Engine Size
350
here is the banged up spindle
 

Attachments

  • jan 12,14 015.jpg
    jan 12,14 015.jpg
    94.2 KB · Views: 127
  • jan 12,14 016.jpg
    jan 12,14 016.jpg
    92.7 KB · Views: 123

hirschdalechevy

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2011
Posts
726
Reaction score
517
Location
norcal
First Name
rich
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
k-30
Engine Size
454
You should be able to get a spindle at a wrecking yard. You need to be careful when you press out the top ball joint on the side with the steering arm , my press kit hit the steering arm a little bit so it would not sit flat on the ball joint so I had to dremal a little of the arm to get it in there. I have seen other people go for it anyway and break there adaptor so you may want to check that. Be careful when puting your axle's back in not to damage your seals in the diff. You wil need a small spindle nut socket for your top ball joint preload nut (under the top nut) and a inch lbs. torque wrench. Follow the insructions that come with the new joints , Torque the bottom nut first then the peload spindle nut and then the top nut etc...... I forget the torque spec's but they should be in the instructions. When you go back together with new packed bearings you need to go tight with the first spindle nut and then spin the rotor , then back it off a little but not to far to where you have play. Then put your lock ring in and then put the smack down on the outer nut. Check every thing else on and in the front end and you will be good to go.
 

hinkv10

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2012
Posts
221
Reaction score
9
Location
ct
First Name
craig
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
v10
Engine Size
350
I can't get the u shaped piece on top of the knuckle, steering arm? separated from the knuckle. I tried a small torch and it laughed at it. I also banged it pretty hard when it was still on the truck. You can't get the spacer on the press over the top ball joint without removing it so that will be another pita.

The pass side spindle is just as frozen on and you can get behind it to get it broken free. I'm 99% percent sure I'm going to destroy that side as well when I put the 2x4 away and just start wacking it with the sledge. I'll post in the wanted section to see if anyone has a pair. Thanks
 

hirschdalechevy

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2011
Posts
726
Reaction score
517
Location
norcal
First Name
rich
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
k-30
Engine Size
454
The steering arm has locking cones that can be a bitch , you have to hit downward on the arm to get them free , not upward. I also soak them in pb blaster before I even try.
 

hinkv10

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2012
Posts
221
Reaction score
9
Location
ct
First Name
craig
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
v10
Engine Size
350
The steering arm has locking cones that can be a bitch , you have to hit downward on the arm to get them free , not upward. I also soak them in pb blaster before I even try.

Thanks, I've given up trying to separate them. I'll take it into work and see if I can use the press to pop out/in the ball joints. I hopefully also got a line of some spindles locally. It was almost cheaper to buy a whole parts truck that just the spindles.
 

hinkv10

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2012
Posts
221
Reaction score
9
Location
ct
First Name
craig
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
v10
Engine Size
350
Here is a tip. While the ball joint press from Autozone is workable it is a bit of a pain in the ass. The drivers side knuckle with the steering arm is blocking where the cup would go to get the top ball joint out. I brought it to work where they have a press and in 5 minutes had it out. Putting the joint in won't be a problem because the cup will go on the bottom.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,075
Posts
948,853
Members
36,145
Latest member
my82blazer
Top