454 getting pulled from suburban.. new cam?

[txaggie]

Howdy all!

I’m building an 85 suburban and it has a 454 with about 90k miles. We are pulling the engine tomorrow and are going to do a complete reseal. I would like to add a cam to give it more power but am not sure what to go with. It will be a daily driver, th400 trans, b&m torque converter 1800-2200 stall, Edelbrock Rpm gap intake, Holley sniper, Long tube headers, x pipe 2.5” exhaust.

Any recommendations?

 

[Catbox]

Without knowing more, this one could be fun.

It has 218 degrees at .050 and that should be plenty for a heavy sub.
Stock seems to be right around 200 degrees and more strip style cams seem to come around at 230 degrees and up.

But please do research and call the cam company representative and talk with them.
Your head selection will also affect what you are planning to do with it.

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I am planning on replacing my Gen4 big block with a later Vortec Gen6 big block.
The later unit has smaller chambers in the heads and a roller cam.
I will putting something similar to a GM 502 cam into the 454.

The Gen6 and ZZ502 cam sounds pretty good to me in this clip from YouTube...

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[txaggie]

Thank you. I’m afraid of flat tappets because of so called quality issues. My buddy says go roller but they are more pricey.

 

[Ricko1966]

Thread 'K20 454 truck engine build' https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/k20-454-truck-engine-build.42213/
Good choice @Catbox
Break it in right,on light springs,run just the outers,let it work harden,then switch springs. Once they are hardened there isn't much danger any more but still keep spring pressure on the conservative side. Read pic 1 below.

 

[Catbox]

Thank you. I’m afraid of flat tappets because of so called quality issues. My buddy says go roller but they are more pricey.

We pulled a roller L-29 454 out of the junkyard on half price day.
That with its matching 4L80 two wheel drive transmission, driveshaft, and some other doo dads we were out the door at $450 or so.
Got lucky that day, but I have seen several of the L-29 Vortec engines in the yard since.

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Another good thing about the engine is that the heads have larger intake ports (235cc) than the stock peanut ports (200cc) do.
As well as smaller kidney bean chambers at 100cc versus the peanut ports at 119cc.

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Or....
You could find a set of the L-29 heads and have them redone.
Then install them onto your Gen4 short block and enjoy the nearly 1 point in compression bump from bolting them on.
The internet states that this alone is good for 40 horsepower.
These are the gaskets that we were told to use for doing just this as I have a set of just heads as well.

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Of course, do your research on the subject as there are loads of ways to make power with these.
YouTube has several videos on them as well.
Dick Hamm shows his buddy James building one of these up in three videos, here is the first one...

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[Wumbo]

I won't even build a flat tappet engine anymore. New lifters are just too risky.

 

[txaggie]

What about this kit?

Lunati 20110120K: BareBones Hydraulic Roller Retro-Fit Camshaft Complete Kit Chevy Big Block Non-Roller Lift: .570" /.570" - JEGS

Get the Best Performance with Lunati BareBones Hydraulic Roller Retro-Fit Camshaft Complete Kit Chevy Big Block Non-Roller Lift: .570" /.570" 20110120K parts at JEGS. Shop Now at the Guaranteed Lowest Price!

www.jegs.com

 

[txaggie]

Without knowing more, this one could be fun.

It has 218 degrees at .050 and that should be plenty for a heavy sub.
Stock seems to be right around 200 degrees and more strip style cams seem to come around at 230 degrees and up.

But please do research and call the cam company representative and talk with them.
Your head selection will also affect what you are planning to do with it.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

I am planning on replacing my Gen4 big block with a later Vortec Gen6 big block.
The later unit has smaller chambers in the heads and a roller cam.
I will putting something similar to a GM 502 cam into the 454.

The Gen6 and ZZ502 cam sounds pretty good to me in this clip from YouTube...

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Let me know what your thoughts are on the lunati kit below:

 

[bucket]

What about this kit?

Lunati 20110120K: BareBones Hydraulic Roller Retro-Fit Camshaft Complete Kit Chevy Big Block Non-Roller Lift: .570" /.570" - JEGS

Get the Best Performance with Lunati BareBones Hydraulic Roller Retro-Fit Camshaft Complete Kit Chevy Big Block Non-Roller Lift: .570" /.570" 20110120K parts at JEGS. Shop Now at the Guaranteed Lowest Price!

www.jegs.com

There's way more to it than just the cam. You are going to be limited in valve lift before the retainer contacts the seal, so you will have to measure for that. The recommended springs for any given cam may not clear your valve guides/seals or fit your retainers, so there is also that you need to figure out. You will also need to upgrade your pushrods to 3/8" which also means replacing the pushrodguide plates.

The 80's and 90's big blocks were designed with a valvetrain that is only adequate for the stock cam, with efficiency in mind.

 

[Ricko1966]

The big thing about retro rollers,is they weigh more than stock lifters so you have to upgrade everything.

 

[txaggie]

There's way more to it than just the cam. You are going to be limited in valve lift before the retainer contacts the seal, so you will have to measure for that. The recommended springs for any given cam may not clear your valve guides/seals or fit your retainers, so there is also that you need to figure out. You will also need to upgrade your pushrods to 3/8" which also means replacing the pushrodguide plates.

The 80's and 90's big blocks were designed with a valvetrain that is only adequate for the stock cam, with efficiency in mind.

Thanks. I’m not worried about new push rods, I’m just curious if this is pushing the limits of causing valve damage. Lunati edelbrock told me it would work… ‍

 

[txaggie]

I wonder if this setup would be better than the lunati?

Howards Camshaft & Lifter Kit CL120235-12; Retrofit Hyd Roller .510/.539 for BBC | eBay

For over 65 years Howards has provided winning valve train components for almost every racing venue there is. In 1998 Howards Cams moved to a new retooled facility in Oshkosh Wis. A complete redesign of cam profiles for the latest valve train upgrades to produce unbeatable power at an unbeatable...

www.ebay.com

 

[Craig Nedrow]

The last four engines I have built all had flat tappat cams. I have had zero problems I’ve used Crower and Iske that doesn’t mean that Comp, Howard and Lunati are no good. It’s absolutely how you put it together and how you break it in. Pay attention to installed height, measure each spring, shim to get the correct pressure, check valve stem and rocker contact. I will say The last cam I installed was in my 454 GEN four block. It was an engine pro nothing special. It was in there from the previous owner that I bought this rebuilt motor from I just paid attention to details. Made sure everything was right. I’ve been running the heck out of that motor for ages four years now, not one single problem.

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[BadBowtie]

Definitely add a bump in a new cam and be sure to go back with a true dual roller timing chain set- Ditch the factory timing set.

 

[Albrigap]

More messes have been made with cam changes than anything else.
Call the cam company, answer their questions and go by their recommendations to get what you want.
It won't work if you guess?
I have got some of the best mileage out of a big block over the small block.
454, 4 speed, 308 gears with 16" tires would get 18 mpg and run 130 mph.
454, 400 turbo in a 70 station wagon with 15" tires and 2.56 gears. Would easily run over 20 mpg.
Both of these were with stock cams.
Cams can get high priced and a lot of work so you want to do it right the first time.