350 ID Help

[Tricky991]

Anyone have a idea on how to get the date on the engine?

 

[chengny]

Casting date H216 = August 21st, 1986. Assuming the dipstick is on the RH (passengers) side. That's only the casting date - i.e. when the block was cast.

For more detailed information on the engine, try to get pull the engine ID code (engine suffix code).

All engines are stamped with an engine ID code, consisting of assembly plant code, production date and suffix code.

On an SBC, the ID/suffix code is stamped into a machined pad in front of the passenger side cylinder head.

Here:

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[Tricky991]

Ok got the number,

V0829FLL
CHS103904

 

[chengny]

Assembled at the Flint Michigan plant on August, 29th (and cast on August 21st - as above).

Engines with the suffix code ending in FLL were installed in two different vehicles, both of which were pickup trucks:

Code Year CID Vehicle HP RPO Carb Comments

FLL 85 350 Truck 160 LT-9 4-Brl 3/4 & 1 TON
FLL 87 350 Truck 170 L-05 TBI

Since we know that this particular block was cast (and assembled) during the month of August in 1986:

We can eliminate the 1985 truck and assume it was originally installed in a 1987 20/30 series pickup. It was equipped with TBI and rated at 170 HP.

 

[Tricky991]

Thanks for the help chengny! Really appreciate it

 

[chengny]

No problem. But I have to ask; why are you so interested in the history of the engine?

To be honest, I used to be the same way. It was like - I thought I needed to know all the details of a particular SBC's background because those details were somehow essential to properly rebuild it.

After doing a few; it became apparent that I was over-analyzing the process. IMHO, when buying parts to rebuild a 350 short block, there are only a few things that matter - none of which require a knowledge of the engine's background:

1. Rear main seal/crankshaft balance configuration (1 or 2 piece rear seal)

2. Cylinder bore (for correct piston/ring size)

3. Diameter of the crank journals (for correct main/rod bearing insert size)

 

[Skweegle89]

No problem. But I have to ask; why are you so interested in the history of the engine?

To be honest, I used to be the same way. It was like - I thought I needed to know all the details of a particular SBC's background because those details were somehow essential to properly rebuild it.

After doing a few; it became apparent that I was over-analyzing the process. IMHO, when buying parts to rebuild a 350 short block, there are only a few things that matter - none of which require a knowledge of the engine's background:

1. Rear main seal/crankshaft balance configuration (1 or 2 piece rear seal)

2. Cylinder bore (for correct piston/ring size)

3. Diameter of the crank journals (for correct main/rod bearing insert size)

I was the same way when I got my truck. Not for rebuild reasons, mainly because the Vin said it was a 305 truck and the PO didn't know anything about it. I was just intrigued and curious.


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[firebane]

No problem. But I have to ask; why are you so interested in the history of the engine?

To be honest, I used to be the same way. It was like - I thought I needed to know all the details of a particular SBC's background because those details were somehow essential to properly rebuild it.

After doing a few; it became apparent that I was over-analyzing the process. IMHO, when buying parts to rebuild a 350 short block, there are only a few things that matter - none of which require a knowledge of the engine's background:

1. Rear main seal/crankshaft balance configuration (1 or 2 piece rear seal)

2. Cylinder bore (for correct piston/ring size)

3. Diameter of the crank journals (for correct main/rod bearing insert size)

Pretty much. The only time the numbers truly mean anything is that if the engine is number matching to the vehicle.. which these days is becoming more and more rare.

 

[Tricky991]

No problem. But I have to ask; why are you so interested in the history of the engine?

To be honest, I used to be the same way. It was like - I thought I needed to know all the details of a particular SBC's background because those details were somehow essential to properly rebuild it.

After doing a few; it became apparent that I was over-analyzing the process. IMHO, when buying parts to rebuild a 350 short block, there are only a few things that matter - none of which require a knowledge of the engine's background:

1. Rear main seal/crankshaft balance configuration (1 or 2 piece rear seal)

2. Cylinder bore (for correct piston/ring size)

3. Diameter of the crank journals (for correct main/rod bearing insert size)

I was just curious really, Not really worried about it for parts. Just interested in it.

Pulled the pan it is a 4bolt main. Just needs tons of cleaning. Head gasket was bad on both side letting water into 2 cylinders. Some one thought stacking 4 spark plug non-foulers would help.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Pretty much. The only time the numbers truly mean anything is that if the engine is number matching to the vehicle.. which these days is becoming more and more rare.

I was curious with mine and found it was original to the truck. So that was cool. But yeah, I agree, parts is parts in a 350, only a few things to worry about as mentioned.

When I was 15 (1985), Pop helped me rebuild the engine in my '56, and all we knew was the engine came from a '76 k10. We took it apart, plastigauged the crank and rod caps, cut the ridge on the tops of the cylinders, measured the bore of the cylinders and lifters, hot tanked it, got new bearings, oil pump, honed the cylinders, put it all back together, and I ran the piss out of it 12 years. I calculated all the highway miles I put on it, and cruising around miles, and was an easy 194,000 miles. I took the heads off to have Pop re-work them in 1998, there was no ridge this time at the top of the cylinders. We reused everything in the engine except what I mentioned new above. Had to get rid of that engine along with my '56 in 1999 to take my ex to court. I miss that car.

 

[chengny]

Pulled the pan it is a 4 bolt main.

Hey, do me a favor, will you?

I have a 100 percent correct streak going on - regarding a method to identify a 4 bolt main block externally. When you have a free minute or two, could you look at the front of your block for me.

Right behind water pump on the passenger's side. Check whether there is a 1/8" pipe plug with a square head threaded into the block. My theory is; if you see one, its definitely a 4 bolt. Like in these images:

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No need to post an image - just a reply whether or not that plug is there. Any help would be appreciated.


BTW - this indicator has proven 100 % positive so far but there is a twist. Just because there is no pipe plug does not mean that the block is not cast/drilled for 4 bolt mains. I once bought a used engine that did not have the plug and assumed it was a 2 bolt. But when I pulled the pan, it turned out to be a 4 bolt.

But the opposite has not proven true - that is, I have never seen a 2 bolt main block with that pipe plug.

 

[Tricky991]

Pulled the pan it is a 4 bolt main.

Hey, do me a favor, will you?

I have a 100 percent correct streak going on - regarding a method to identify a 4 bolt main block externally. When you have a free minute or two, could you look at the front of your block for me.

Right behind water pump on the passenger's side. Check whether there is a 1/8" pipe plug with a square head threaded into the block. My theory is; if you see one, its definitely a 4 bolt.

No need to post an image - just a reply whether or not that plug is there. Any help would be appreciated.


BTW - this indicator has proven 100 % positive so far but there is a twist. Just because there is no pipe plug does not mean that the block is not cast/drilled for 4 bolt mains. I once bought a used engine that did not have the plug and assumed it was a 2 bolt. But when I pulled the pan, it turned out to be a 4 bolt.

But the opposite has not proven true - that is, I have never seen a 2 bolt main block with that pipe plug.

Yeah, the plug is there.

My old engine had the same exact plug, same spot. But it was a 305 with a 2 bolt main.

 

[chengny]

My old engine had the same exact plug, same spot. But it was a 305 with a 2 bolt main./I]

That's because a 2-bolt main 305 is the only kind of 305 there is.

My theory only works on 350's.

 

[Skweegle89]

I just checked my block and its a 2 bolt without the plug. That's a good observation. Be sure and let us know if it ever proves to not be true.


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[Boone83K10]

ah man, I don't have a plug. poo poo.