3 Port Fuel Tank selector valve

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77scottsdale1

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I have selector valve i took off my truck im not sure it works 100% but i wiil sell it at a reasonable price. shot me an offer.
 

smurfasaur

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What valve is it? If it’s a 6 port single wire one I am interested


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78C10BigTen

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Im intersted to if its the 3 port. Mine doesnt work.
 

77scottsdale1

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I will check this Sunday when I am back at my dads.
 

77scottsdale1

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That's what it is

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chengny

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im not sure i pulled it off my truck. i would assume it does considering it had both junk tanks with the truck but i dont know how i would test it.

It is just a solenoid actuated valve that defaults to the production tank when de-energized. Connect one wire supplying 12 volts to the solenoid and ground it by touching the bracket to the frame. The fuel meter (sender) wiring doesn't go through it.

If the valve is still operational, you should feel (and probably hear) the internal snap to the auxiliary port position when a proper voltage/ground are provided. If that test isn't conclusive...I suppose you could try to blow through it from both inlet ports. If you get air out of the discharge port from both inlets (and not at the same time) I'd say it's still good.

Most of the time it isn't necessary to go looking for trouble - trouble will generally find you.
 

HotRodPC

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As Jerry said, the valve just defaults to the primary production tank if it doesn't work. That being said, don't assume it works just because both tanks were there. Not trying to blow a sale for you, just saying test it as he's instructed. I'd hate to see you go through the trouble of having to give a refund and then someone out the cost of shipping if it's bad.

I'm also going to change the title to 3 port Fuel Tank Selector Valve.
 

78C10BigTen

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As Jerry said, the valve just defaults to the primary production tank if it doesn't work. That being said, don't assume it works just because both tanks were there. Not trying to blow a sale for you, just saying test it as he's instructed. I'd hate to see you go through the trouble of having to give a refund and then someone out the cost of shipping if it's bad.

I'm also going to change the title to 3 port Fuel Tank Selector Valve.
Mine has both tanks still and my selector dont work lol
 

HotRodPC

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As Jerry said, they're just a solenoid that get's energized with power.. Off and the valve pulls from the default tank. Powered or energizes the solenoid moves blocking the default port and opening the aux tank port.

Normally when they don't work it's because the solenoid seized. I do know a guy, and I watched him do it to his 77 C20, he took the valve off and cleaned it up. He had an extension cord with the end cut off it. With nothing to lose he said we was going to Zap it and see what happens. He clamped 1 wire of the extension cord to the body of the valve, plugged it into the wall at 110V, then dragged the other wire across the positive lead to the valve. I mean, just wiped at it quickly and that was that. We heard something and figured it was the valve toasting. Nope, it was the solenoid moving. Right after he did this zap with 110V, he put it on the barrery and hooked it up. Solenoid moved, disconnected, solenoid moved, squirted a little trans fluid in both intake ports and repeated a few times hooked to the battry, connect - disconnect - connect - disconnect. We could hear the solenoid moving freely. He reinstalled and problem was solved. Both tanks worked again for as long as he kept the truck.
 

77scottsdale1

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bad news... upon further examination, it looks like a port is clogged. Ill keep working to see if I can get it moving though.
 

78C10BigTen

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bad news... upon further examination, it looks like a port is clogged. Ill keep working to see if I can get it moving though.
If it does work and your price is right im interested in buying it.
 

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