2bbl on a 454?

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jake wells

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ok when i mass the gas pedal it doesn't bog at all but it does give very light black smoke so it must dumb a lot of gas when you punch the gas.

to confirm what carb i have i pulled this number off of the base it says 1407 now i did adjust the fuel mixture needles on the front and i got it to idle better and it does smoke anymore when it idles.

i still have to replace the vacuum hoses and do a major ignition system tune up to make it run better.

we will see..........
 

Irishman999

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ok when i mass the gas pedal it doesn't bog at all but it does give very light black smoke so it must dumb a lot of gas when you punch the gas.

to confirm what carb i have i pulled this number off of the base it says 1407 now i did adjust the fuel mixture needles on the front and i got it to idle better and it does smoke anymore when it idles.

i still have to replace the vacuum hoses and do a major ignition system tune up to make it run better.

we will see..........

Kick ass Jake, let us know if it runs any better!
 

GothRod

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I vote keep the Edelbrock you got. Sounds like its working fine lol

Isn't it that the electric choke Edelbrocks are tuned more for economy and the mech choke ones are more for performance?

-John
 

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Play around with the rods and springs in that Edelbrock too. I have one on my 72 Ventura II and I tuned it in 2004 with lighter springs and longer rods and it runs so good, I haven't had to touch it in 6 years and it's driven everyday.
 

jake wells

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mine has man choke pump it twice pull the choke and it starts instantly! but it misses a little so it needs ignition work done.
 

crazy4offroad

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You can put smaller secondary jets in, and adjust the throw on the accellerator pump lever to trim out that last little bit of black smoke on WOT. A little black smoke is OK, rich mix when you're in it is preferred by performance builders. Better to be a little too rich than any bit lean. Carter-based Edelbrocks are the easiest to tune and maintain carbs I have ever seen.
 

Mr Clickerson

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I didnt like my Q-jet offroad, steep banks would dump the float bowl, load up and kill the engine. Sometimes that can be a really bad thing. I tried the bowl vent extended tube mod but still had drown-outs so went with the Edelbrock 600cfm 1406. Installed the offroad kit, tuned the primary needle-and seats, secondaries and accellerator pump and been running happy for many years. But this is on a 350, I've always heard 750 was for high-performance smallblocks and for bigblocks. I think Edelbrock also makes a vaccuum operated secondary carb.

The 750 cfm Quadra-Junk was the smallest they offered in the Chevys, IIRC, and they had that and an 850 for the big blocks.
 
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Jims86

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If it is bogging real bad, check to make sure that your vacuum advance is hooked up and in good running order.
As far as MPG, from the factory, all the carbs were tuned a bit fat, so we use to change the jets/metering rods a step or 2 down from factory. Got 19mpg out of a K-20 with a 454, 4spd trans.
I find that most people who change to 2 barrel from 4, usually get crappier mileage, because they have to bury there foot more to get the vehicle to perform properly, I.e; Merging onto the interstate where big rigs are travelling at 70mph.
 
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Irishman999

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If it is bogging real bad, check to make sure that your vacuum advance is hooked up and in good running order.
As far as MPG, from the factory, all the carbs were tuned a bit fat, so we use to change the jets/metering rods a step or 2 down from factory. Got 19mpg out of a K-20 with a 454, 4spd trans.
I find that most people who change to 2 barrel from 4, usually get crappier mileage, because they have to bury there foot more to get the vehicle to perform properly, I.e; Merging onto the interstate where big rigs are travelling at 70mph.

I need to try that with mine. I didnt know what i was doing when i rebuilt my quadrajet and removed the metering rod stopper. Any advice on how to know when im close to having them right?
 

jake wells

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well the major tune up went great it runs like raped ape now!MSD cap and rotor accel plugs and wires.
i also pulled the valve covers cleaned them out and touched up the valve adjustment.

i attacked the trans in it new modulator new gaskets and filter and synthetic trans fluid it shift and doesn't slip anymore also have new universal joints and carrier bearing.
I DON'T SKIMP ON MY TRUCKS :)

i pulled the cover on the rear axle cleaned the chocolate milk looking oil added new syn gear oil and added a new gasket.

UPDATE* well as today would not get exciting enough i thought i would work it good and hard. got the goose neck trailer out and pulled some rolled hay for my buddy 7 large round bales.

weighting around 19,000 pounds and it performed like a champ pulling up steep grades and it wouldn't grunt the only downfall the brakes are a little useless with that much weight THANK GOD FOR TRAILER BRAKES!

more to come guys

-Jake
 

Jims86

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I need to try that with mine. I didnt know what i was doing when i rebuilt my quadrajet and removed the metering rod stopper. Any advice on how to know when im close to having them right?

Well, you can do it by ear, kinda like timing, wait for the ping, and then go back to the next step up metering rod. kinda a bitch, but once you get it dialed in, you will love it.
Whats the elevation where you are, and do you go anywhere at sea level? If possible, you want to test and tune at the lowest elevation your truck may ever see.......you don`t want to lean her out too much. I would say don`t go any lower that 2 steps for now. You could also go a little hi-tech, and get the auto meter wide band o2 sensor kit, and fine tune that way....you would be in less danger of going to lean, if you can actually SEE whats going on. Its a really nice set up, and well worth the money. If I had any carbed rides right now, i would have one in all of them.
 
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Irishman999

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Well, you can do it by ear, kinda like timing, wait for the ping, and then go back to the next step up metering rod. kinda a bitch, but once you get it dialed in, you will love it.
Whats the elevation where you are, and do you go anywhere at sea level? If possible, you want to test and tune at the lowest elevation your truck may ever see.......you don`t want to lean her out too much. I would say don`t go any lower that 2 steps for now. You could also go a little hi-tech, and get the auto meter wide band o2 sensor kit, and fine tune that way....you would be in less danger of going to lean, if you can actually SEE whats going on. Its a really nice set up, and well worth the money. If I had any carbed rides right now, i would have one in all of them.

This O2 sensor kit sounds very cool, about how much are they and where can i find one? Can you tune the metering rods without taking the lid off? It looks like you can make a tool that fits down the hole.
 

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They vary, last time I bought one, was around $240 from summit. Well worth it, IMHO.
You should be able to change rods externally. If you have a carb with jets, you have to take them apart....its been a while since I have had a carburetor to mess with.
Holly also has a really nice carb out now, that has an adjustable metering block, so instead of swapping jets, you turn an adjustment screw, just like when adjusting the idle circut.
 

Irishman999

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I had no idea this existed. I was planning on setting it up on a emission machine but this seems simple. That gauge is next on my list.
 

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