FitfoCustoms
Junior Member
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2018
- Posts
- 8
- Reaction score
- 7
- Location
- Mississippi
- First Name
- Gary
- Truck Year
- 1981
- Truck Model
- Blazer 2wd
- Engine Size
- 5.3
If any of you are thinking about putting a newer seat in your K5, this is how I made my bracket. If I get a lot of interest, I will show more pictures in detail.
Material needed is 1x2 inch square tubing. About 15ft is what I bought.
1/2 solid bar or rod stock. I had to buy 10 ft.
A small sheet of 3/16 plate. 12x24 should be plenty.
(2) 1/2" cable clamps.
Cut two sections of 1x2 to 49". These will be your front and back. Cut four sections of 1x2 to 20". Cut two 3/16 plates 5"x6"(REAR) and two 7"x6"(FRONT). Drill a 1/2" hole in each front 3/16 plate for mounting purposes. I cut my plate larger, drilled the hole, lined it up with the frame, and then trimmed to fit. Weld the front, sides, and back together for the frame. 49" is your width and all work will be within that 49". Cut (10) 1" pieces from the 1x2 tubing for spacers. I took a 4 ft section of the 1/2" rod and put through the front hook on both seats and put them on top of the frame. I centered the seats, front to back and side to side. Place to two center 1x2 sections(20") approx. 2" inboard of each inboard seat hook and weld. I put a spacer 1/2" from the hooks on the front side of the seats on both side of each hook. Look at picture with seats installed to see. Mark the spacers and remove the seats. Weld the spacers. Cut the rod to fit the space between the spacers and weld. Put the seat back on bracket so that you can see where to put the rear spacers. Put another section of rod in the rear hooks and snap it into place on the seats. Line the spacers to where the rod touches the bracket. Mark the spacers and weld into place. Weld the rod on top of the rear spacers. I drilled two 1/2" holes in each rear plate, right where my factory seat hook was. I bought two 1/2" cable clamps and secured the rear. The front of my bracket is flush with the front of the cargo floor. If you make your seat bracket like this, you can still use your factory side panels. I will be making my own side panels to mount subs into. I know these pictures are not everything that you need, I just decided to write this because I was bored at work. If anyone wants more detail, just let me know. Merrick's Garage has another bracket but IMO, it requires more drilling and puts your head into the hard top. The Yukon seats can be removed in a couple of seconds. The bracket takes about 5 minutes to completely remove. You could possibly make this with less or thinner material but I tried to make as stout and as low as I could. I will be taking some plastic tape and putting it around each section of rod where the seat hooks ride. This should stop any noise coming from the seat while riding. Note: this will give you a small amount of storage under the seats.
Material needed is 1x2 inch square tubing. About 15ft is what I bought.
1/2 solid bar or rod stock. I had to buy 10 ft.
A small sheet of 3/16 plate. 12x24 should be plenty.
(2) 1/2" cable clamps.
Cut two sections of 1x2 to 49". These will be your front and back. Cut four sections of 1x2 to 20". Cut two 3/16 plates 5"x6"(REAR) and two 7"x6"(FRONT). Drill a 1/2" hole in each front 3/16 plate for mounting purposes. I cut my plate larger, drilled the hole, lined it up with the frame, and then trimmed to fit. Weld the front, sides, and back together for the frame. 49" is your width and all work will be within that 49". Cut (10) 1" pieces from the 1x2 tubing for spacers. I took a 4 ft section of the 1/2" rod and put through the front hook on both seats and put them on top of the frame. I centered the seats, front to back and side to side. Place to two center 1x2 sections(20") approx. 2" inboard of each inboard seat hook and weld. I put a spacer 1/2" from the hooks on the front side of the seats on both side of each hook. Look at picture with seats installed to see. Mark the spacers and remove the seats. Weld the spacers. Cut the rod to fit the space between the spacers and weld. Put the seat back on bracket so that you can see where to put the rear spacers. Put another section of rod in the rear hooks and snap it into place on the seats. Line the spacers to where the rod touches the bracket. Mark the spacers and weld into place. Weld the rod on top of the rear spacers. I drilled two 1/2" holes in each rear plate, right where my factory seat hook was. I bought two 1/2" cable clamps and secured the rear. The front of my bracket is flush with the front of the cargo floor. If you make your seat bracket like this, you can still use your factory side panels. I will be making my own side panels to mount subs into. I know these pictures are not everything that you need, I just decided to write this because I was bored at work. If anyone wants more detail, just let me know. Merrick's Garage has another bracket but IMO, it requires more drilling and puts your head into the hard top. The Yukon seats can be removed in a couple of seconds. The bracket takes about 5 minutes to completely remove. You could possibly make this with less or thinner material but I tried to make as stout and as low as I could. I will be taking some plastic tape and putting it around each section of rod where the seat hooks ride. This should stop any noise coming from the seat while riding. Note: this will give you a small amount of storage under the seats.
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