2000s hydroboost into a square

[F-64]

Mine was converted to Hydro-boost. I pulled the part numbers for an 1985 3/4 ton. I just grabbed the parts from Autozone (master cylinder,booster,hoses,power steering pump). I think many of those item were lifetime warranty as well.

You will have to source a brake pedal for Hydro-boost as the mounting hole for the booster on the pedal is closer to the fulcrum point. If I remember correctly, the difference is close to 1" between vacuum and Hydro-boost hole locations. A vacuum boost pedal won't give you as much leverage.

SirRobyn0 the reason from my upgrading to Hydro-boost was that no matter how hard I pressed on my R10 brake pedal I could not lock up the front wheels. I rolled through one intersection during a panic "stop". At that point I decided to change over to Hydro-boost. Locking the fronts is not a problem now.

The only thing that kinda sucks is the power steering has even more assist now.
This may be the next project:
https://www.heidts.com/part/adjustable-power-steering-valve-ps-101/


Running Hawk HP+ front pads, Willwood proportioning valve and Nicopp lines.

 

[Raybob9289]

i'm OEM HB and this is the best brake set up you can have! maybe gonna upgrade it whit the bigger recent one some day!

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Did you use the original high pressure hose??

 

[Craig 85]

Since someone posted on this old thread I’ll add some more info I’ve learned. Not sure if it will work on a Square Body though.

The original post was asking about putting on a GMT 800 series hydroboost. I’m part of a couple Suburban 2500 groups. Quite a few guys have switched over to a 2011 3500 diesel truck hydroboost unit. The only mod was having to slightly enlarge the hole on the shaft where it meets the brake pedal. The firewall mount is probably different than a Square Body.

The claim is much better pedal feel and firmer braking. I’m assuming this is the case because 2011 is when the chassis on the trucks were redesigned for heavier GVW.