Vbb199
B-rate Hillbilly Customs
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2018
- Posts
- 9,045
- Reaction score
- 15,339
- Location
- Salisbury NC
- First Name
- Vince
- Truck Year
- 89, 79
- Truck Model
- 89 Suburban R1500, 79 C10
- Engine Size
- 350, 502
They both work on the same principles, just different ways of doing it sometimes. I do commercial and industrial A/C as well. There are some things that are different though. I don't usually pull as deep of a vacuum on cars because of the rubber hoses. If they are new then you are fine, but as they get old you can cause them to leak by pulling a deep vacuum (which is measured in microns)
I do always recommend changing out the orifice for the above reason, but they are dirt cheap, so why go through everything else and wimp out on that. The accumulator/ receiver drier is also good to change because it helps keep moisture out of the system and since you don't pull down to a deep vacuum and use nitrogen to dry the system out you will always have moisture in the system.
For pressures, generally speaking I like to see around 30-40 PSI for the low side and the high side will also depend on your outside air temperature. If it is 100 degrees outside then you should be around 150 PSI. Also the low side will drop as the cab gets cooler too...
Here in Phx it isn't unusual to hit 118 degrees so my high side pressure may be around 210 PSI
Ok cool!!!!!
I'll get back with you on some numbers this evening.
It's 2.45pm here. So around 4:30 or so. I'll fire it up and hook the gauge up and give you a outside temperature and both sides pressure readings. Maybe that'll be able to give you some info to direct me.
I think you and @yevgenievich are onto something. Now that I know what I know from you guys, it only blows nice cold AC when I'm driving.
Idling the condition worsens.
My clutch fan is going out.
I failed to mention service engine soon comes on when running the AC after a bit as well.
But I'll post up results after a while.... Give this thread a watch if you will.. I'll get back with you.