1987 Blazer Front Suspension Upgrade, Springs, Bushings, Hangers, Steering Box/Shaft

[RanchWelder]

My 14-Bolt rear suspension included Leaves being swapped from 52-inch stock springs to 60-inch stock springs.

Added extra long perches, in case wanted to move the axle back further. (It will not be possible, more on that later).

The extra long 3-position perches allowed me to remain close to stock height, so long as removed the Overload Flat springs, from the stock GM 60-inch 99'Surburban spring pack.

This required using a replacement spring pack bolt, as the older one is now more than 1-ich longer than the pack. Planning to add a leaf, under the OEM rear stack, for added pack stability. The overload is important on a pickup truck, so get professional advice before eliminating it on your build.

If the Blazer ever had enough OVERLOAD, theoretically, the lack of overload flat spring, could cause the springs to crack at the center bolt location, from over bending in the reverse direction, without support... The added short bottom leaf should help out, if needed.

My rig is set up for a fifth wheel hitch, so keeping tongue weight reasonably should not be an issue. The sliders could also support a Goose Neck, if wanted.

Have never towed with any short wheel based vehicle, so keeping stock height for this modded Blazer, is especially important.

My tires are HD road style treads, not over wide mud-er tires. No 35's. The corporate 10-bolt uses GM six lug x 15-inch wheels.

The rear 14-Bolt uses 8-lug x 16-inch wheels. Tires are sized to match within 1/2-inch diameter, using good quality road, all-weather radial tires.

The bed always has 2 spares on board.

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Skyjacker SC125 Springs for the front end.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sja-c125

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Summit Racing matched the price from another web store!
Make sure you look around for the best price before you pull the trigger.

My Summit Order came directly from Summit, and the shipping was fast.

Ordering from them, I was able to confirm these springs did not already have OEM bushings pressed in.

This would have caused another step to remove them, before adding the Kevlar reinforced Urethane set up from ORD.

Pressing out OEM bushings is not for the weak of heart or weak of bench press.

It took 2 grown men, (one is nearly a giant man), and a 30 ton press to replace the bushings on the rear 60-inch springs. Buying springs without bushings is the way to go, if you choose the following non-stock bushings.

Summit made the purchase easy. They also sent me spare bushings from Skyjacker!

When my order came, parts I did not expect showed up with the springs. It's OK, will share them or save them as backups.

Skyjacker specify a 2-inch to 2-1/2-inch lift, however my truck has an added front Cow Catcher.

Easily 190 pounds of added weight way out in front of where the old bumper used to be. I made a deck so I can stand in front of the grill to work on the truck. This pushed out the catcher, so WHEN hitting an Elk, the bars have a ways to go before they ruin the grill and hood.

This rig is not designed for rock crawling, so adding length to the front spring pack was not required. The expected lift is around 1-1/2-inch max. We'll see.

In any event, the lift was intentionally avoided, so the truck tracks well with a fifth wheel hitch, when required.

The frame shackle bushings and front leaf spring bushings, were shot. The OEM Springs are 38 years old.

ORD sent me a set of replacement leaf spring frame mounts.
From This:

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To This:

https://www.offroaddesign.com/catal...-front-upper-shackle-hanger-kit/category/417/

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Here's where the frame required some grinder and cutting wheel work on those pesky Frame Rivets:

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My fender well had to be trimmed back a small amount so the 5-inch De Walt grinding diamond wheel could get to the frame rivets, from the outside.
Careful not to dig into the frame at a hard angle.

ORD's bushings required an additional 1/8-inch diameter to the frame holes.
I trimmed them towards the top of the existing holes, so the bolt holes aligned with the OEM rivet holes. Each rivet hole had to be drilled out for the grade 8 hardware.

The die grinder made locating the new upper mounts easy.
All but one hole required to use the new bushing mount as a drill guide.
That one extra ream did ruin the brand new cobalt bit, by chipping as it relocated the missed hole. I was able to complete the other side with the same bit, but would not recommend using the mount as a drill guide for any hole that doesn't match up.

My current Shocks are Monroe set with helper springs over the shock body.
They are designed and sized to replace the OUTER shocks and added extra support when the old leaf springs were worn out. ORD advised measuring the truck with new 4L80E and rebuilt engine, after the spring install, so the exact shock could be ordered for the INNER TALLER shock mount.

Good thing did not go wild and grind off the taller 4 shock towers when opted to eliminate 2 of the 4-shocks earlier. (Monroe and other professionals advise the 4-shock system is outdated due to advances in shock technologies.) YMMV

The new shocks get measured after all the engine and transmission install, so the exact ride height can be averaged for new taller shocks later. They will be using the inner OEM mounts, and no longer using the outer shock mounts.

The front OEM leaf spring bolts were bent from the rotted bushings bottoming out.
They had to be sliced with the Diamond wheel.

ORD sent me quality grease-able bolts and new shackles:
(Had no idea Summit would include them).
ORD has designed improved bushings with Kevlar.
https://www.offroaddesign.com/hd-front-shackle-kit-for-67-91-gm-trucks.html

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I called them to order the exact set without the extra rear leaf lower bushings, winch come included in the kit above. You'll have to select exactly what springs used, so the bushings match. Choose your springs FIRST. Then order after speaking with ORD.

Make certain you order these parts carefully, so you do NOT end up with an un-used extra $40 bushing, due to overlapping parts seen in these pictures.

Next up is the leaking gear box:

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Found this seller on eBay had the best price and excellent customer support rating for a BRAND NEW, NOT Re-manufactured unit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/116197934107

$275, on sale from $325. Wanted to keep my old box, in case I can repair the seals and have a spare for the future. Never rebuilt one before. Figured tearing one down might be educational, at the very least?

Hopefully will learn what not to do during the replacement of the $20 seal kit.

The tighter turning unit from Borgeson was a bit out of my budget. Want one... oh well.

The steering shaft with the rag-joint had to go.
The forum had a suggestion to use the C3500 GM Style from a 1990's HD truck:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KQF6A2/

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Amazon had one on sale for $93.00 shipped, so the Doorman unit had the right price for the budget.

Had to add my own grade 8 x 3/8-inch x 1-1/4 bolt at the steering box joint.
The picture of the parts above, shows a bolt without the metal angle which works for the upper connection at the steering column. The hardware came with the metal angle brazed onto the upper bolt head, (not as pictured). You'll need a lower bolt to install this, because the rag joint bolt might not work.

It installed easy, no cutting required.
If you lift your rig more than 2-1/2-inches, you might want the Borgeson unit, so you can adjust for body or added spring lift, when cutting the insert shaft down.

You should cut the shaft down so the column does not force the steering column into your chest during a front end collision, when required. It is supposed to collapse, not be installed maxxed out in either direction.

Get professional advice, before you mod this column, if you are not sure.

My repair for the lower bearing included machining a Delrin bushing to the steering column. The plastic race and clip was replaced. The Delrin is 1/2 inch thick and allows several screws to hold everything together.

Next up is the drag link ends:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NZW4FU/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NZW4K0/

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These are in the cart and will be added next time to this thread.

The springs, hangers, box, shaft are all installed.

The TBI is getting over-bored next week.
Then the new built L31 SBC will go in.

It's raining and cold here. We had snow flurries this afternoon.

Will post more pics here, as the build goes.

 

[idahovette]

So....no top on this Blazer??

 

[RanchWelder]

Wheels are just off the ground, on jackstands.

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All the hubs, brakes and joints are new except the drag link ends.

The front sway bar adds stability to the cross member.
My frame was not cracked at the steering box mount.

Welded in the frame brace metal plates, so it would not crack, a few years ago.
https://www.offroaddesign.com/weld-on-frame-repair-kit-for-73-91-gm-trucks.html

Did NOT install the long bracket steering box brace for 2 reasons:
https://www.offroaddesign.com/bolt-in-steering-box-brace-for-73-91-gm-2wd-trucks.html

1) As stated my frame was not broken previously.

2) The front stabilizar does complete the front structure.
Removing the bar for 4-6 inch lift, would have allowed removal of the stabilizer. Without the stabilizer bar, the extra long steering box brace, (or even an upgraded cross member, might be in order)?

If I had the extra $$$, now would be the time to add the extra steering box brace.

It's not bent, it's just the camera angle...
Better pics after more is completed...

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Lot's of shims under those jack-stands, make it safe.
Borrowed a John Deere skid steer.
Used the bucket under the front end during the removal of the mounts.

With the front and on the ground and the jack unable to support, the front end gets very light on the stands. Especially while reaming, drilling and grinding the old mounts out.

No squishy.
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The stabilizer bar will require fabrication of a pair of steel Plates welded to drop 1 to 2-inch where the bushings used to reach the front end of the core support.

Something like this:
(Not my photo...)

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They get welded at an angle, related to the drop, depending on how the truck sits with everything installed.
Drop 2-inches and away from the axle 3/4-1 inch, is what is expected? We'll see.

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You can see where the fender well had to get a trim to fit the cutting wheel outside the frame.

We use old tractor inner tubes as fender well inner tire mud guards. Keeps the ice and snow off the, plugs, wires, heads and headers. They look ugly and work well.
Who cares, it's a Montana Mountain rig.

With the rivet heads ground off the outside, a small chisel was no problem removing the mounts from inside the frame.

It was a lost easier to do all this with the engine and transmission out, no doubt.

Here's the new Husky U-Bolts from RockAuto:

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You can see the old shocks might work after all?
We'll see. They are less than 2600 miles since new.
If I can keep them for 2-3 years before spending the money for inner long shocks, that's a win.

Found some polymer covers for the threads on AZ.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B59P8ZC6/
The U-bolts will likely get cut down after the truck gets an alignment.

If you are coming to Montana for Spring Bear Season, you'll want to pack your tire chains and long john's, along with your shorts and t-shirts, this time of year.

It was 70 degrees last week and those pics with the white stuff on the ground are from today.

 

[RanchWelder]

Here's a pic of the rear end and springs, without transmission or drive line in the way:

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Here's the underside of the fifth wheel X-Plate.
It was designed for a ball and socket deck mount, as the central connections shows.

We welded stock to the frame, beefed up the frame rails and bolted the X-Plate slider track assembly to the welded rear deck risers, and the double wide U-Channel towards the front.

The welded u-channel and 1/4 inch plates (on each side of the outer axle bends, at the frame), really beef up the 1/2 ton, where it counts.

The 1/4 plates are raised above the top of the frame, (just under the deck height). They become integrated with the square tubing we set above the frame, for the rear X-Brace mounts.

No welding was done across the top web of the frame.
The u-channel are welded to the plates and along the outer side of the frame. The plates had 1 bolt match up.

We drilled 1 inch holes in a 5 star pattern and welded to the side of the frame inside the small holes. No cross rib welding was done across any section of the OEM frame.

The side plates create a structure to front and rear mounts.

The top rib of the frame was drilled for 4 bolts only where the frame was reinforced and gusseted.

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Would love to box the frame.
Getting to the wiring and fuel lines would require a lot of extra money to re-rout, at this point.
Brake lines are all inside there too.
Fuel filter...

The side plates should help out a lot. We'll see?

If you look close, you can see the extra long perches welded to the rear axle, with new hardware.

The spring pack looks like it could use 1 more lower leaf.
The man from D&S Spring said he'll make a set, if the camper load requires it. No idea what the tongue weight is, for a 22 ft fifth wheel on a short bed. We'll see?

All my cash for the 5th wheel camper went into the engine, suspension and transmission rebuild, after the move. At this point, the fifth wheel mod will be experimental and not required for the camper which originally was planned.

The Lord has blessed me with a place to sleep, work, rebuild, mod and restore.

There's another suspension thread with more pics of the rear mounts, if you search my sig or scroll down the list to last Oct/Nov. suspension forum.

Hope this helps out anyone looking for suspension mods options.

This is not a restoration truck.
It is meant to work, handle well off-road with optional trailer capacity when required.

In the mean time, the cap is still in place.
Working out a plan to add a head ache bar over the cab roof and chop the cap down to 14 inches.
The rear glass would move back over a short wall behind the front seats.

Chop down the fiber glass, or save it and remove it when needed?
(No garage space to lift it off and store it, is my issue for this option).

Open bed, Soft Topper with a roll bar behind the driver's head rest and/or over the topper, as a light bar?

We'll see.

 

[RanchWelder]

Suggestions on a shade tree alignment process would be apreciated.
The rear 14-Bolt is narrower than the front, same as the Corporate 10-Bolt it replaced.
Not by much, but enough the front cannot be easily squared using a straight 4x4 timber.
Who knows if the frame is bent after 38 years.

Camber cannot be adjusted.
Prefer to "toe out" the front wheels, for cornering stability and tread to raod angle under compression in a corner.

This mod uses the inner tire treads up faster and handles significantly better "Riding On Rails".
Except you cannot do that with a GM Corporate 10-Bolt hub. No adjustment.
When you corner, you had better slow down, because you are rolling over the outer edge of the tire, no matter what. You wear out the outer front tires in hard cornering.

The castings from The General, just tend to toe inwards, unless you bend the tubes with a smoke wrench, cut and weld the axle to castings yourself or jumping them off a cliff.

The rear end was measured center to center sideways.
The spring perches welded at angle to drive line.
The U-Joint angle's were caluculated using 2 different u-joint angle calculator apps for the iPhone.
Rear axle drive line angle is set to achieve 4500 rpm at both u-joints, or more. Less than 2% deviation at both ends.

What have you ladies and gentlemen done to Square up and align your 4WD suspension upgrades?

What works and what does not work?

 

[1lejohn]

Nice write up and pics. I need to replace my front springs front hangers. The bolt hole is egg shaped from the previous worn-out bushings. Did you replace those or just the front back hangers. It looks like a pain in the azz to cut all the rivets. I have the ORD FUSH brackets. I figured I would order the others and do them at the same time.