1985 K-10 knock sensor

[Kirk T]

Yesterday I removed what I thought was my oil pressure sending unit but it turns out I removed the knock sensor as I got a face full of water for my efforts. My question is should the end of the sensor where the wire connects be able to completely rotate? It is plastic ant the wire connection end and easily swivels in my hand. Is it supposed to do that?

My second question does my truck just have the one knock sensor or is there another one hiding somewhere?

Thank you very much

 

[Dave 84]

Well hell I didn't think an 85 had a knock sensor can you take a picture and post it?

Secondly the plastic is supposed to be crimped on by the body of the sensor and should not rotate test the sensor to make sure it can read ac current a lab scope would be best or mabey a good meter!

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Or tap the block near the sensor and see if the idle changes. Some 4.3s have two knock sensors, one on each side, but you should only have the one. Oh and 81+ trucks with ESC have knock sensors.

 

[chengny]

Yesterday I removed what I thought was my oil pressure sending unit but it turns out I removed the knock sensor as I got a face full of water for my efforts. My question is should the end of the sensor where the wire connects be able to completely rotate? It is plastic ant the wire connection end and easily swivels in my hand. Is it supposed to do that?




Thank you very much

In 1985 the LE9 (5.0) engine came equipped with an ESC system - it was the only one that had it.

My question is should the end of the sensor where the wire connects be able to completely rotate?

The knock sensor in an engine is used to send signals to the engine-control computer if this action is detected, preventing a detonation from happening. In a sense, the knock sensor is a microphone placed in the engine to listen to any unusual noises that the engine makes.

The shell/housing is primarily there to provide protection to the actual sensor - also a way to screw it in.

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I would run the truck as normal and if there is no decrease in performance, I would keep on running it. If it runs sucky, get a new one. I think they are under $20.

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There is only one knock sensor.

 

[Dave 84]

Yes that type should be able to turn if your talking about the pigtail part

 

[73c20jim]

could it be a block heater

 

[Kirk T]

Yes I'll take a picture and post it but it looks just like a greasy version of what chengny showed. I went ahead and got another one coming anyway. and a new pigtail. That brings up another similar question. I also bought a new temp sensor and pigtail. However the new connection has 2 wires but I only have a single dark green wire that connected to the old sending unit (it has gauges) so now which wire goes to the sender and what to do with the other wire

 

[chengny]

Yes I'll take a picture and post it but it looks just like a greasy version of what chengny showed. I went ahead and got another one coming anyway. and a new pigtail. That brings up another similar question. I also bought a new temp sensor and pigtail. However the new connection has 2 wires but I only have a single dark green wire that connected to the old sending unit (it has gauges) so now which wire goes to the sender and what to do with the other wire

Don't even try to use that coolant temp sensor. Coolant sensors with two leads are used to provide coolant temperature to the ECM. It won't drive your dash temp gauge.