1984 GMC 1/2 ton. Want to modify please help!

[74propu]

I have dome the frame swap already . 74 c10 on a Camaro sub frame with square tube back half PITA and still is today.

 

[HotRodPC]

My 84 C20's suspension isn't in bad shape, but not in the best either. I know the ball joints are a bit tired and probably the shocks too but it rides real nice. I'd say if you're looking for ride comfort, you've got some worn out suspension parts. I doubt you need to do any upgrading to the suspension, just replace what's bad. Upper and lower bushings and ball joints, shocks and any steering linkage. Squares just don't ride bad at all unless you've got a shortbed, then I can see it's a bit possible to have a stiff quick bounce on dips and such. But, that's the price those pay to have half a truck. I can't beleive people pay extra for less truck.

 

[MikeB]

Yeah, you're right. And ehh, minus the 540/572. I think the C10 on a '91-'96 9C1 Caprice frame is an interesting idea, but someone would need to blaze that trail first. Regardless of practicality, I think talk of any frame swap is an interesting topic. Even then, a lot of good stuff's been discussed.

I agree. Several years ago there was a guy in the Plano/Allen, TX area who put a 56 Chevy sedan on a 90s Caprice chassis. Unfortunately, the car had a rusty body that some guys think is cool. And I don't mean just patina.

 

[MikeB]

Squares just don't ride bad at all unless you've got a shortbed, then I can see it's a bit possible to have a stiff quick bounce on dips and such. But, that's the price those pay to have half a truck.

Absolutely true. My old 69 longbed C10 (that my son now owns) rides a lot nicer than my 82 C10 short bed. Some of that is probably due to the 69's rear trailing arm & coil spring suspension.

It is strange that short beds are worth more, but I do like the tighter turning radius, and the 6.5 ft bed is perfect for how I use the truck. Also, it fits into my garage! My 69 long bed would barely fit, but the only way a 73-87 long bed with 211" overall length would fit is with the front bumper up against the wall. Not the best setup for doing engine work! (And that 211" does not include a rear bumper.)

 

[Rohrs84GMC]

All of you guys are truly amazing. As I work through this I promise I will pull my weight in one way or another.
Okay so the only thing I was very wrong on is having free time. Damn I have no free time. I know 99% of the people on here feel the same but it absolutely sucks. Not to mention my girlfriend and my stuff in a garage just isn't working. That said I have not given up! I just plan on being very strategic and getting everything purchased and planned prior to diving too deep.

That said I went ahead and got a rebuild kit from Cliff's (they were really are awesome). I highly recommend reaching out if you aren't in a huge rush! In case there is a new guy like me out there here is the link http://cliffshighperformance.com/

I really appreciate the suggestions on motor swaps and as much as I'd love to I owe it to the current motor to show a little love. I'll probably end up doing a full rebuild once its out as I have never done one and would love to!

Next purchases and a couple questions:
Steering shaft - Was going to get an 88-96 XJ shaft but cannot find one online for very cheap and being in LA and working a ton I don't have time to run to a junk yard. Would I be the worst person in the world if I just forked up for the Borgeson Steering shaft? http://www.borgeson.com/xcart/product.php?productid=1445&cat=34&page=1
Bushings and ball joints (Any suggestions on a good place to purchase from?)

AGAIN THANK YOU GUYS FOR THE WARM WELCOME. I'M REALLY EXCITED TO BE HERE!!!

Here is the current situation

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[Rohrs84GMC]

Here's a couple other pics of her

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[Rohrs84GMC]

Those two items above go hand in hand, but remember it's a pickup truck built when people didn't buy them as smooth, quiet, luxurious daily drivers!

What kind of tires does the truck have? A load range D truck tire can be harsh and noisy. Use something like Cooper Cobras or BFG Radial T/As for a smoother ride.


Check the sticker inside the glovebox door to see if your truck has the optional HD suspension with stiffer springs. If it does, consider using standard duty C10 springs.

As mentioned elsewhere, it's always a good idea to replace all the suspension bushings. If yours are original they will be cracked, and worse case may even cause metal on metal contact.

And while the control arms are off the truck, you might as well replace the ball joints, unless you know they are reasonably new.

Use name brand suspension and steering parts like Moog! I can't overemphasis this.

Visually inspect the cab to frame mount bushings for cracks or deterioration.

Yes, definitely keep us updated.

• It's on some very old cracked BFG's That's probably a small part of the issue.

• I will check the sticker in the glove box when I have a chance and will post it here.

• As for the bushings any suggestions on where to purchase from?

• Will definitely replace ball joints while I'm in there.

• The cab and frame mounts bushing are definitely worn but I'm only one man! haha how hard would those be to swap out? I'm assuming not a one guy kind of easy?

 

[theblindchicken]

• It's on some very old cracked BFG's That's probably a small part of the issue.

• I will check the sticker in the glove box when I have a chance and will post it here.

• As for the bushings any suggestions on where to purchase from?

• Will definitely replace ball joints while I'm in there.

• The cab and frame mounts bushing are definitely worn but I'm only one man! haha how hard would those be to swap out? I'm assuming not a one guy kind of easy?

Body bushings arent too hard at all.

Spray them with penetrant for a day or two before, then loosen em all up with a breaker bar. Use a floor jack and a block of wood between the jack and the body.

Remove bolts on one side at a time. Lift it high enough to pull old bushing out and slip new one in. Do the other side, tighten em all up. And you're done.