1979 Getting Started

[Russell Jones]

Hey all,

I tried to use the search tool to see if i could find a thread similar to what im looking for but no dice...

I recently inherited a 1979 c10 shortbed with a 305 in it. I found some paper work hinting that the truck last ran in 2014 and i think it has been sitting since then.. I didn't even have keys for it when i got it lol. Anyways I changed out the ignition so id have a key for it, got some new wheels and tires for it so i can push it around the drive way if need be and bought a new battery...I tried turning it over and boom! she turns over with no problem, she didn't fire up but everything spins freely while turning over, Oil looks clean, and radiator still has coolant in it, carbs pretty clean looking..etc etc.


What do you guys suggest doing next? I didn't keep trying to start it so that would'nt damage anything, just wanted to see if it turned over really...What are the next steps i should do to help get this ole girl up and running on her own?

Thanks!

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Fresh gas and an oil and filter change. Then once it’s running hold the pedal to the floor until it blows and put a big boy engine in it . Lmao oil change and fresh gas for sure.

 

[Russell Jones]

Fresh gas and an oil and filter change. Then once it’s running hold the pedal to the floor until it blows and put a big boy engine in it . Lmao oil change and fresh gas for sure.

hahaha As long as you're willing to come over and help me swap it!

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

You need to check for spark, fuel, and air. Since it’s been sitting, you’ll need to go with fuel first because I’m willing to bet it has spark. Fresh gas and blow the lines clear of the crappy fuel. You’ll possibly need a new pump because stagnant ethanol will kill the diaphragm, a new filter, and possibly a carb rebuild due to ethanol chewing at the soft innards of the carb and gunking up in various places and impeding fuel flow. This is iffy at three years, but it becomes more of a definite four or more in my experience. If the tank or tanks had a lot of gas, the best thing to do is drop the tank and get all that crap out of there or at least siphon as much out as possible. Ethanol is hydrophilic so a rusty sending unit and a disgusting strainer sock and float from the aforementioned goo are a distinct possibility. Another good reason to drop the tanks if problems are found after your fuel system overhaul. After that’s squared away, I’d do oil and filter, as mentioned, before you even attempt to start it again. I use Delco filters, but NAPA, Wix, and STP among others are good filters. Just don’t use Fram. If it starts after that, great. It’d behoove of you to do an ignition tuneup: cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. I’d check spark quality after that to know it was okay to move on. Air, check for vacuum leaks and more vacuum leaks. Hope for a few, but expect a bunch. If some stuff’s been deleted, it’ll make your life easier, but some stuff will be there. Be mindful of your carb base gasket, EGR valve, PCV valve, and especially all the hoses. If you want to start planning a major delete of all the thermal vacuum switches, the EFE, and stuff like that, now would be a good time to take inventory. I’d keep the PCV and evap system on a carbed, non-ECM vehicle, but the rest can go for my taste. If it has a vacuum lockup circuit you’ll need that, and if it has cruise and A/C, you’ll need the check valve, the vacuum storage ball, and all the lines that go with that. Check everything very closely when you’re doing that because practically anything can leak. If it’s still got a Quadrajet, the filter will be inside the carb behind the flare fitting. Just unscrew the big nut and it’s spring loaded so be careful. When checking the base gasket for a vacuum leak, the best thing I’ve found is a small can of starting fluid sprayed around the base and seeing if the idle speed changes. Make sure and get a timing light to see if that’s where it’s supposed to be, too. I wouldn’t do more than 6* BTDC to start out with since it’s a 305. Phew, I typed that fast.

 

[Russell Jones]

You need to check for spark, fuel, and air. Since it’s been sitting, you’ll need to go with fuel first because I’m willing to bet it has spark. Fresh gas and blow the lines clear of the crappy fuel. You’ll possibly need a new pump because stagnant ethanol will kill the diaphragm, a new filter, and possibly....

That was amazing, let me get my note pad...lol thanks!

 

[Honky Kong jr]

That was amazing, let me get my note pad...lol thanks!

Jesse is good like that.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

hahaha As long as you're willing to come over and help me swap it!

To Baltimore hell no. Work tries to send me there, I tell them fire me. Lol, no really I do.

 

[Russell Jones]

To Baltimore hell no. Work tries to send me there, I tell them fire me. Lol, no really I do.

Its not THAT bad lol. Just stay out of the west side and you'll be safe.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Its not THAT bad lol. Just stay out of the west side and you'll be safe.

Not a fan of that area. What town are you in?

 

[Russell Jones]

Not a fan of that area. What town are you in?

I live in Halethorpe. I work for Baltimore City FD and am assigned to Truck 23 in Pigtown.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

That was amazing, let me get my note pad...lol thanks!

You're welcome! Another thing to be mindful of is fuel tank rust because of...you guessed it, ethanol. That's some gnarly stuff. Unless you daily or frequently drive a vehicle, you should steer away from it. If it's surface rust, you can rod the tank out if there's a good radiator shop near you. If it's gotten all the way through, it's probably best to get a new one. Once you knock all that out, or all of it you want to knock out, I'd then go to flush your cooling system, put fresh coolant in, and make sure it's cooling at the right temperature with no leaks. Prestone makes a garden hose flush kit that Walmart sells for three dollars. For operating temp, I'd suggest 195* so the heater will be toasty for winter, but 180* is fine, too. Hoses, water pump, radiator, and thermostat are the components there to be mindful of in terms of leaks and failure, old hoses and sticking thermostats, especially. I'd also flush your brake fluid sooner rather than later. Brake fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs water over time, which means rust for the lines. I'd make sure you have enough power steering fluid, but that's about it getting started. You can prep it until the cows come home, but it's more realistic to work out the bugs over time after the stuff that can majorly bite you in the ass has been cleared from your plate.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Jesse is good like that.

Thanks!

 

[Snoots]

hahaha As long as you're willing to come over and help me swap it!

You have no idea what kind of can-o-worms you just opened!

 

[Iowan]

Jesse is good like that.

Yeah he makes up for honky's crap!








(sorta)

 

[Honky Kong jr]

You have no idea what kind of can-o-worms you just opened!

Big block!!!!!!!!!!!