1976 C30 dump - wheel cylinder

[jd4020]

I need to change out the rear wheel cylinder on my 76 C30 dump. It appears that the leaf springs are set wider on the dump truck than on a regular bed, so I can't really get to the back side of the backing plate easily. I was planning to just drop the whole rear end assembly, as I just replaced all the U Bolts, so they would come off easily. However, after thinking about it some, could I pull the axle and hub, and then remove the backing plate to provide access to remove the wheel cylinder? I'm not sure what would be more difficult, just removing the whole rear end or the backing plate. Since it's a dump bed, I have access to everything pretty easily, and have access to a loader to basically lift the frame& bed off of the rear, once I have unbolted it. It just seems like a lot of work, just to replace the wheel cylinder. The springs are right snug up to the back of the backing plate, so I'm going to need to do something, as there is no chance of getting a socket in there, even just a wrench is going to be tight.
Just looking for ideas from anyone who has tackled this before.

Thanks

 

[Girth]

No idea what year it is, came out of a round headlight square, (no telling though) but the DRW D70 thats in my shop mostly torn down...... ya gotta yank the axles and Hub/Drum assembly anyways, if you wanna get to the wheel cylinder. Your drums slide off, separate from the hub?

Oh, and welcome to the forum. lol Looks like your 1st post?

If yours came as a dump, or a cab and chassis truck, your axle was narrower than the same in a truck sold as a pickup. Could account for some of that distance to the spring pack?

 

[jd4020]

Thanks for the info and welcome. Yeah, I get that the axles and drum has to come off. Once those are off, can I pull the backing plate off as well? That would provide me better access to the bolts and brake line on the backside of the backing plate.

 

[Girth]

Thanks for the info and welcome. Yeah, I get that the axles and drum has to come off. Once those are off, can I pull the backing plate off as well? That would provide me better access to the bolts and brake line on the backside of the backing plate.

Should be able to. Every job is a broken bolt away from a weekend of pain though. lol I think they're studs, pressed through the axle housing? Haven't gotten there yet with my D70. Soaking those nuts and the bolt for the wheel cyl with the hope I don't swear as much later.

Have you had your hub off yet? I had to scrounge a special socket (dang... that I still haven't tested. I tapped the nut loose to get it off) for my hub nuts, since mine have a round notch in them. Depends on the setup on your specific axle though.

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[PrairieDrifter]

Don't quote me on it but I believe the cab and chassis rear ends all would have been the gm 14 bolt. I don't think there was a narrower Dana 70, there may have been though.

The cab and chassis rear end is narrower. The gm 14 bolt has bolt on backing plates. But you'll have to disconnect the lines from the hose first because you'll have to come out and over the spindles.

There was a wrench available for the bleeders. You'll have to get a cheap line wrench and bend it to what you need. I will also be tackling a cab and chassis rear end one of these days as well. I'd much rather have the wrench, if not then pull the backing plate, last resort is pulling the axle. Need to replace the Ubolts if you remove them.

 

[legopnuematic]

Should be as @PrairieDrifter stated, a 14b FF if it is a cab and chassis truck.

70s 3/4 and 1 ton SRW got a 14b FF, as did the 1 ton C&C trucks. Only 1 ton dually pickups got a Dana 70HD rear.