10 bolt front

[roy c]

do they have a front excel posi ? like the posi rears have so when you apply gas the front tires grab where needed. with out doing that thumping you get when you cut the steering to tight on dry ground in 4 wheel drive ?
Thanks Roy

 

[crazy4offroad]

Not really, you're going to have driveline binding if you drive in 4 wheel anything on dry pavement or hard pack, and may even have something break. Always try to avoid driving in 4 wheel drive on pavement unless it is raining or snowing/ice.

 

[roy c]

thanks, On my 87 sub when i lock the front hubs do both front wheels lock sort of like a spool or do they spin independent of each other I remember last year pulling out
in the drive way 2+ feet of snow I could swear one tire was turning the other wasn't
Thanks Roy

 

[Driver4r]

When both hubs are locked, the carrier is still open, if its factory.

 

[roy c]

what do I need to make them both turn when I lock them on the hub?

 

[skysurfer]

What's your budget?

 

[roy c]

don't want to break the bank just want to know what it takes

 

[skysurfer]

You have a few choices, but none will work on pavement as C4O mentioned.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/...rtOrder=Ascending&keyword=differential locker

 

[crazy4offroad]

10 bolt diffs are a dime a dozen a nut like me would weld the spiders to the side gears and if you want no binding leave the driver hub unlocked. Be aware with both fronts pulling full time steering is greatly diminished (worse than what you have now). It is also very stressful on parts, you're likely to snap stub shafts, hubs, or even the carrier itself. I would just drop in a Powertrax No-Slip limited slip drop-in and stay away from lockers, spools or welding gears.

 

[77 K20]

I have an Eaton Truetrac in the front of mine. Still feels like an open differential, but will transfer power over to the tire with more traction. It has worked great for mud, snow, dirt, hill climbing. Wasn't too impressed for rock crawling- but don't do that often.

No clutches to wear out and no limited slip diff additive is needed.


$470 for my truck (4.10 gears, D44 front diff)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dtl-913a592/overview/


Application lookup chart:

http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@per/documents/content/ct_128302.pdf

 

[nataca]

When you lock the hubs you are just connecting the wheels to the axle(basically) the othe end of the axle is still in the carrier which most of the time trucks are going to have an open carrier up front. The locking hubs are only there to reduce the wear on parts not needed for 2wd

 

[usar17]

77 how is that on daily driving? I've always been afraid of random lockup. Keep buddy told my fronts should only ever be manual control locking to prevent random lock up if the hubs are locked. Does it limit your turning more then normal with locked hubs having that locking diff?

Ultimately front diff lock would be best in snow because you have the weight of the engine on the axle.

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