Edit, problem #1 solved. i forgot a ground wire and when i hooked it up i have all my accessories. I still don't have power to starter though. my last question is, when should the small starter terminal (purple) be hot? during crank or ignition? i only have a large terminal with 1 wire coming...
also..... my blinker indicators come on (not flash) when i turn my wipers on. Also, my "brake" indicator light comes on when i turn key to "crank". is this normal or a WTF
I need steps on how to troubleshoot no power to the starter soleiod. bare with me because i do not have the best technical vocabulary when it comes to this stuff.
i have begun the process completely re-wiring my sbc with the original wiring harness, at this point in time all i want to do is get...
my exhaust rocker on cylinder one is receiving no oil when the oil pump is getting turned over. its a brand new crate motor, im assuming the oil passage is blocked. what's the best way to clean that passageway?
edit: i've tried plugging all other holes on drivers bank and running at 60 psi for...
So long story short, i tore apart my 1979 k10 dana 44 front axle that was stock as far as i knew. ordered ball joints U joints and bearings. i got my ball joints in, U joints in but ran into an issue with the spindles. My driver and passenger spindles where noticeably different. the new bearings...
i ended up finding a very helpful guy at advanced auto, apparently napa had me order driveshaft U joints not axle shaft. went through moog and vehicle fitment at advanced and seemed to work out fine.
Doing U joints on my 1979 Chevy k10 pickup with a Dana44 spicer axle. Axle shafts came out fine but after I installed new U joints the bearing caps would not fit through the knuckle. The actual CV housings will fit without the U joints in, but after instal the bearing caps stick out to far to go...
thats fair, por15 is a life saver that stuff works great. As long as the rocker and cab corners are still present, it will look 10x better than majority of squares in the midwest lol.
fixing the rust while its still fairly solid is probably a good idea, especially considering aftermarket patch panels are not always very accurate, its nice to have reference points from oem sheet metal.
I am doing the 203 to 205 swap on my 79, soon enough the front axle is going to be rebuilt and i know i will need t install a manual locking hub kit (currently has no hub locking mechanism). when i look it up, all i see is part time 203 kits that include the hubs. In this case will i just need a...
super super random question, im starting a build thread and wanted to make a little picture gallery sorta thing. i made it off of google slides and just wanted to know if it is accessible to you guys.
link here. and if that doesn't work maybe try pasting this into your search bar...
Finally got an update worth sharing!!
here is the frame right now a week or so after sandblasting.
we got a 4in rough country lift and bolted it up to make sure it fits right, and this is a few days after that. we just pulled the axles cab off and just working on seam sealing/finishing the...
this might have been talked about before, but it would be nice for some clear information on it.
first here are some specs:
Ive got a 79 k10, sb350 going to a th350 going to a np203 full time no slip yoke.
we are doing a np205 swap, we have the truck down to frame with no current drivetrain...
ok thank you, my seat did have lap belts that fed through and has the drivers side adjuster you are talking about.
and just to clarify you did buy a upholstery kit for a 1979?