I think I have a gremlin, I traced the wires going through the firewall into th cab, found the brown power wire on the block, checked it with the meter and it gave me 12volts, 30 seconds later I check it again, and theres no power.:banghead:
So I pulled out the harnes that goes down to the tranny, through the engine bay area. I have another connector(pinkish red) that was just hanging on the firewall, not connected to anything.WTF!
The rears are I good shape, new drums, new cylinders, springs, shoes, and they're adjusted properly. The only thing left is the proportioning valve that's not been replaced since 86.
I need to figure out where the power comes from that goes to the vacuum switch now. I checked all my fuses, and they are all good. This thing is really starting to piss me off, Just last night I had full power to one of the wires of the vac switch, all of a sudden I ain't got nothing.
If its not one thing, its another. So today I went and bought a toggle switch to bypass the vac switch, I go to hook it up, now there's no power going to it at all, when just yesterday my meter was reading 12volts on it. Upon further inspection while I was under the truck, I happened to pull...
I just want to see if it works, If it does, I'll order a vacuum switch from rockauto, to have it turn off and on automatically. If it doesn't I'll have to do some more troubleshooting. Just worried cause it hasn't been turned on in many years.
Ok, so I disconnected the plug(terminal) at the tcc vacuum switch, I put the key in the on position, put my voltage tester on it, and I have 12 volts on one of the wires. Can I temporarily bypass the vac switch with a toggle switch inside the cab to test it and see if the lockup is working? or...
I have replaced the original rubber hoses with Skyjacker extended braided brake lines up front only. And yes, both sides have a good unrestricted flow, actually all four corners have good flow.
Tie rods, drag link, and bearings are new, my ball joints are original, but they seem to be in good shape. My truck has been doing this pulling even before the lift an tires. Its not getting any worse, but its not getting better with new parts.
Anybody have details on whats involved to swap it out for a new one? I'm getting ready to convert from r12 to r134, and have basically replaced all other components(compressor, condenser, dryer) with new ones. The evaporator is the only original component in the system from 86.
Ok, so I have replaced both calipers, both brake lines, master cylinder, and still it pulls right. Its not bad if your slowing down easy, but don't drive it over 35mph and the try to stop hard, its down right scary. Proportioning valve maybe????
Don't try to center it at the wheel itself, it only goes on one way. Loosen the bolt on the jeep shaft where it connects to the gear box, and adjust it there. the splines will allow the shaft to be positioned anywhere. Rotate the shaft which in turn will rotate the wheel, straighten it out and...
:wtf2: How the f*&k did I miss this thread! I've been tinkering around with the tcc lock up wiring on my truck for over a month now trying to troubleshoot it. Oh well, Thanks for the correction HR. A while back I started a thread on the tcc vacuum switch, I ran a line to it from the manifold...
Adjust the linkage at the transmission, there's a bolt with a spring washer. Loosen it up and slide it towards the hood just a tad and tighten it back up, the try it. If that doesn't work, its your lock cylinder in you column.