What have you done to your square lately??

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legopnuematic

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Dart Swinger, Sierra 10, C10 Cheyenne, C10 Big Ten, Silverado 10, Ram 2500
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225/6, 350 c.i., 350 c.i., 5.9l Cummins
@Chris64 you did bypass/eliminate the resistor wire and give the HEI a good solid 12v right?

That’s something that is often overlooked doing an HEI upgrade, they will work being under volted for a while, but issues will arise at some point.
 

1976dully

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Eric
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C30
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5.3
Got 6 new tires for the '76. Painful, but they'll probably outlast me. Lol
Got the new offering from Cooper. Stronghold AT 10 plies
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WesN

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Edmonton Alberta Canada
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Wes
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C1500
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350
Installed a shifter by using 1” tubing bolted to seat frame so not to put holes in my new carpet. Extra long cable so it goes through firewall. Two bolts and undo cable and it can be removed leaving the cab stock. I race the truck in the NHRA Sportsman class so that is why the shifter, column shift with no safety stops for hitting neutral or reverse was a concern.
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Strick

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Harold
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Well, it is black now. Didnt come.out as good as I had hoped but better than it was. Hopefully nothing a whole lot more damn sanding can fix
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I worked on my '87 & it's not perfect but it's good! Considering it was almost 40 years old with mostly original paint, I've given the next owner a much better guide coat than what I started with.
Your ride looks great, put the adornments back on & go ride!

HS
 

brooksman9

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350 & 305
I did do the sanding/wet sanding today. Rubbing compound and polish next. This chit is for a much younger person. Following this guy's plan from the SPI forum (mostly)
 

Phillippio

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Tucson
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Greg
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1977
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C15
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Nice long weekend to put in a Edelbrock Performer intake and general top half clean up. I also replaced a leaking freeze plug. NOT Fun. Not hard, just very difficult to get to. I have to get the rest done since one failed.
She runs well. Timing set to 10 degrees BTDC. New tach will be here Wednesday to help set the carb.
Next in line is fuel tank replacement. The PO included a new tank and sending unit. It would be nice to know how much gas I have in the tank. I can get rid of the jug I have been carrying around for when I run out.
When warm she only has around 15 psi of oil pressure at idle, jumps to 30 by the time I hit 800 to 1k RPM. Then nudges higher with more RPMs.
 

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brooksman9

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Not horrible but I'm not going to win any Good Guys awards either. Kind of resembles the way they came from the factory. Only this front corner is polished so far.
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JamesSam

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VA
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Began stage 1 of several small stages of "cleaning up" the engine bay. Just a little bit this time.
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Lot of work left to go.
 

Chris64

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@Chris64 you did bypass/eliminate the resistor wire and give the HEI a good solid 12v right?

That’s something that is often overlooked doing an HEI upgrade, they will work being under volted for a while, but issues will arise at some point.
:oops: I sure did...err...tonight.

So that line going to the coil isn't 12v? TIL.
 

legopnuematic

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Dart Swinger, Sierra 10, C10 Cheyenne, C10 Big Ten, Silverado 10, Ram 2500
Engine Size
225/6, 350 c.i., 350 c.i., 5.9l Cummins
:oops: I sure did...err...tonight.

So that line going to the coil isn't 12v? TIL.
On a 1973-1974 (or 1975 with Electronic ignition delete, so points) they use a resistor wire that with key on drops the voltage to ~7-9 volts to keep the points from burning up. They also use the post on the starter to provide 12V to the coil to bypass the resistor wire when cranking.

Basically serves the same purpose as the ceramic ballast resistors found on Chryslers.

If you search the forum you should find some discussions on removing the resistance wire and feeding the HEI the 12v it wants.
 

Chris64

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On a 1973-1974 (or 1975 with Electronic ignition delete, so points) they use a resistor wire that with key on drops the voltage to ~7-9 volts to keep the points from burning up. They also use the post on the starter to provide 12V to the coil to bypass the resistor wire when cranking.

Basically serves the same purpose as the ceramic ballast resistors found on Chryslers.

If you search the forum you should find some discussions on removing the resistance wire and feeding the HEI the 12v it wants.
I tried to find a good thread on best practices to remove the resistor wire and replace it in the wire harness etc but I need a tach wire run anyway so I'll just run two new wires (one for Tach) and just cap the resistor wire to off in the wire loom. Thanks for warning me about that.
 

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