1987 Chevy V10 steering wander

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Grit dog

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Strick said:
The caster can be adjusted as well but it is an extreme pain in the arse! You have the break the wheel end of the axle all the way down to the knuckle and install shims between the spindle and knuckle. I have replaced ball joints on 10 bolts and Dana 44's and have seen some of these shims in years past. I have not tried to source any of these shims but I believe that I have some stashed away somewhere. Maybe I'll find them in the kitchen junk drawer...

HS
Click to expand...
Camber you mean?
Generally not needed to ever adjust on a straight axle.
Toe and caster, assuming components are all good/tight/not too tight, are the 2 primary causes/solutions to twitchy or wandering steering.
Generally 5deg or greater positive caster is what’s required or recommended.
Toe, never toe out. Zero toe or slight toe in for stable steering.
 
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Grit dog said:
Camber you mean?
Generally not needed to ever adjust on a straight axle.
Toe and caster, assuming components are all good/tight/not too tight, are the 2 primary causes/solutions to twitchy or wandering steering.
Generally 5deg or greater positive caster is what’s required or recommended.
Toe, never toe out. Zero toe or slight toe in for stable steering.
Click to expand...

Grit dog said:
Camber you mean?
Generally not needed to ever adjust on a straight axle.
Toe and caster, assuming components are all good/tight/not too tight, are the 2 primary causes/solutions to twitchy or wandering steering.
Generally 5deg or greater positive caster is what’s required or recommended.
Toe, never toe out. Zero toe or slight toe in for stable steering.
Click to expand...
@idahovette beat you to it. I should have misspelled AXLE to get @SquareRoot involved too!
 
Grit dog

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Strick said:
@idahovette beat you to it. I should have misspelled AXLE to get @SquareRoot involved too!
Click to expand...
Oops my bad. Figured you knew, not being critical just clarifying for someone who may not know camber from caster or what they do to steering. Cheers!
 
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idahovette said:
The correct shims between the spindle and the knuckle for Camber. Is it loose or is it sticking from side to side and you have to correct constantly........To tight of Ball Joints can cause that.
Click to expand...
Had the alignment done and it still feels the same, maybe a bit better, when I did the ball joints the knuckle preload did feel tight. Maybe this is the issue ? Should I loosen the preload sleeves on the upper ball joints?
 
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Check the drag link is centered properly off the bump stops at both knuckles before you align.

Who knows if they will align the drag link before they try to align?

You would hope so.
 
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Cdog_96 said:
Had the alignment done and it still feels the same, maybe a bit better, when I did the ball joints the knuckle preload did feel tight. Maybe this is the issue ? Should I loosen the preload sleeves on the upper ball joints?
Click to expand...
Post up the before and afters of the alignment sheet.
 
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Ahhh! Just read you replaced the steering box,if it's too tight it will cause a problem. Anyway here's procedure for checking the ball joints.
 

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Cdog_96

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Ricko1966 said:
Ahhh! Just read you replaced the steering box,if it's too tight it will cause a problem. Anyway here's procedure for checking the ball joints.
Click to expand...
Can I do this with hub and rotor attached ? How do I adjust it if it is too tight?
 
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Cdog_96 said:
Can I do this with hub and rotor attached ? How do I adjust it if it is too tight?
Click to expand...
Yes hub and rotor still attached,but steering links disconnected to isolate so the only resistance you get is in the steering knuckle you are checking. Look at step 5 for how to adjust. Sorry so late to reply,been a busy day. Still want to see before and after on alignment sheet.
 
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Cdog_96

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Ricko1966 said:
Yes hub and rotor still attached,but steering links disconnected to isolate so the only resistance you get is in the steering knuckle you are checking. Look at step 5 for how to adjust. Sorry do late inbreply,been a busy day. Still want to see before and after on alignment sheet.
Click to expand...
Didn't get one, I think all they did was set the toe
 
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Cdog_96 said:
Didn't get one, I think all they did was set the toe
Click to expand...
You need to go back and talk to them. If casters wrong you are chasing your tail. Ask them to put it back on the rack,you watch them,get a printout. If they touch the alignment heads or raise or lower the bumper after they do the caster sweep.( left right turn on setup ) they are cheating to get numbers that fall in spec.
 
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Cdog_96

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Ricko1966 said:
You need to go back and talk to them. If casters wrong you are chasing your tail. Ask them to put it back on the rack,you watch them,get a printout. If they touch the alignment heads or raise or lower the bumper after they do the caster sweep.( left right turn on setup ) they are cheating to get numbers that fall in spec.
Click to expand...
I'll call them this week, gonna be tough to watch them with work schedule. As for using a fishing scale on ball joint preload, how exactly would I do that? Just hook the scale right onto the knuckle then pull?
 
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Any good alignment will include a print of before and after. If you went to a tire store you probably only got the toe set/checked.

Is your steering box centered? I have seen so called alignments done by removing the steering wheel and put back on so it looks straight.
 
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