New guy needs help with butterflies

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LOENF4U

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What's up people ? I'm Jeff and new to the site, I own a 76 square body, used to be a stepside, now a fleet, i having some front end issues, i lowered it with 2.5 spindles, tubular arms, and 2" coils, i didnt like where it sat so i put in 3" coils, it now looks the way i can live with, but tires butterfly, and hate it, alignment did nothing? i found a kit for camber correction for use with tubular arms, its 8 concaved washers basically, but i only have lower tubular arms, so i dont know if will work ? any help is appreciated.
Also if i replace the pitman arm, would it fix all the play in the steering wheel? i have replaced all but the pitman arm, also the tilt wheel need relaced which is prob part of the problem? i did replace gear box. Thanks in advance. and glad i joined the group. HELLO ALL !
 

Strick

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Welcome to the site Jeff. Look around these threads & you should find some useful info from some knowledgeable folks.

HS
 

legopnuematic

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Welcome from Missouri.

@bluex and @TotalyHucked are two that come to mind that might have an answer regarding alignment with a lowered truck.

These trucks (2wd that is) have a pretty fair range of adjustment available. Caster, camber, and toe should be able to be dialed in by an alignment shop that knows how. Not just a ‘toe and go’ shop.

If the pitman arm has play then that can certainly cause play at the wheel. Your tilt column, rag joint and steering box could be contributing to it as well. Remember, that even if a part is new or remanufactured, that (unfortunately) does not mean it’s a good part.
 

bluex

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I'm not sure what you mean by the tires being "butterfly" but...

A competent alignment shop (ie not a national chain center) should be able to inspect an tell you exactly what is worn an needs replacement. You might have to search for one that will check/set more than just the toe. Once you find a good shop have them shoot for these specs:
Camber -.5*
Caster +5.0* or as close as possible. Once side will usually max out lower than the other. Have them dial the one back to match. They should be the same.
Toe 1/16" in. This is the only adjustment most chain shops are going to want to as all modern vehicles have very limited, if any other adjustments.

The washers you are referring to won't work on these trucks, the caster an camber are adjusted with shims on the upper a-arm. If you wind up with a large stack of shims an have trouble keeping them in place, Moog offers an offset upper shaft that can help reduce that shim stack. It really shouldn't be needed to get it to the specs mentioned above.
 

animal

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ali_c20

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Welcome from Austria. Post some pics, we want to see your truck.
 

Mr Clean

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84_c10_GMC

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Welcome! Let’s see some pictures of this butterfly! Errr I mean truck!
 

TotalyHucked

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Agreed with everything @bluex said. The biggest thing is finding an alignment shop that has someone that knows how to handle old vehicles. Most shops now have no idea how this style of front end works, so they just adjust the toe and send it out the door.

You say you have tubular control arms, whose are they? I assume you mean lowers? With a tubular LCA that’s designed to drop the truck, a drop spindle and a 3” drop spring, that thing must be dumped in the weeds. It’s highly unlikely it can be aligned as it sits now. Usually, you use *either* a drop LCA or a drop spindle, but not both. Throw some pictures up so we can see what you're working with.

Also as @bluex said, Moog offers offset shafts for the upper control arms. That's your only chance at getting it aligned close to spec. I have 2.5" spindles and cut springs for about 5-5.5" of drop in the front and can't quite get the camber in spec with all factory stuff. Had I known about the Moog offset upper shafts, I would've done that when I installed them. I get ~25-30k out of a set of front tires right now.
 

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