dumfounded

I am trying to find the best way to wire my alt but i for got where any of the wires go i guess i taped them long ago ,truck sat.forma.while an now i am tryin to figure out what the 2 red wires that i cut off.from the starter go to ,I ran the one wire to starter from bat, but now.i have no power to any thing there.was one red wire that i left hooked.up to the small connection on solinoide, i just tryin to.clean.up the wires by maybe eliminateing some that i problly need, lol since i am here I also have.my electris fans maybe.2 is to many ,should i down size.an the electric fuel pump ,an the electric watet pump i have them all routeing to one.wire to the batt from a toggle switch from each one, i know as soon as click the fan on an go to click the other switches to on u can hear the fan go down in power reduced i know this is a.lonf question an might have to broke down into several questions but who else would understand.me. but square bodies lol

Welcome Juan.
A lot of knowledge here, you’re in the right place.
That said, you go a lot going on and likely some bad guidance or ideas along the way.
Starter wiring is easy. Someone will come along with a link to wiring diagrams or you can search this site. They are here.
Regarding the rest, it’s confusing why you’d be going with all electric components unless there’s a goal in mind (that literally doesn’t apply to 99.9% of old trucks unless you’re a drag racer and trying to squeeze out a few more hp).
For all that, do some reading on loads, wiring, amperage requirements. You’re setting up a system that’s drawing a lot of power and probably have undersized source and wiring based on your short description.
Also think about how simple a mechanical fuel pump, fan and power steering is. Compared to what you just described.

Now put all the wires back at the starter like you found them,2 of them were fusible links that provide all the power to the fuse box. Running all electrical loads to one source with a toggle switch is also a poor choice. As to wiring the alternator B+ goes to battery, terminal 1 goes to the the brown wire,that is the exciter wire,terminal 2 is voltage sensing wire which should go to the terminal block on the firewall,you could run it to battery + post it would be functional,but not as functional as factory. This is all from memory I will be double checking a couple of things,so check back later in case I need to edit. Okay,double checked,alternator wiring is correct.

Sorry, electric fuel pump get a 4 prong relay from the parts store hook terminal 30 to battery + , hook 87 to fuel pump. Hook terminal 85 to alternator exciter,hook 86 to ground. Now fuel pump will only run with the engine running. Same set up for fans but use a relay with a built in capacitor and hook 85 to a thermo switch.

Original setup on 85 attached

Link- to wiring diagrams

Grit dog said:

Welcome Juan.
A lot of knowledge here, you’re in the right place.
That said, you go a lot going on and likely some bad guidance or ideas along the way.
Starter wiring is easy. Someone will come along with a link to wiring diagrams or you can search this site. They are here.
Regarding the rest, it’s confusing why you’d be going with all electric components unless there’s a goal in mind (that literally doesn’t apply to 99.9% of old trucks unless you’re a drag racer and trying to squeeze out a few more hp).
For all that, do some reading on loads, wiring, amperage requirements. You’re setting up a system that’s drawing a lot of power and probably have undersized source and wiring based on your short description.
Also think about how simple a mechanical fuel pump, fan and power steering is. Compared to what you just described.

Click to expand...

now that i look back i was sure off some where i had het fer 25 yrs now beem through repos an left in fields neglected her but she still here , but i had gone ton65o holley an from there it always been hard to pump the gas up there so i figure i would try it it does help.my stompin on her with a few taps now then water pump went out i was well we. check it out , time i knew it i was in over my head expirmentin

Ricko1966 said:

Sorry, electric fuel pump get a 4 prong relay from the parts store hook terminal 30 to battery + hook 87 to fuel pump. Hook terminal 85 to alternator exciter,hook 86 to ground. Now fuel pump will only run with the engine running. Same set up for fans but use a relay with a built in capacitor and hook 85 to a thermo switch.

Click to expand...

man .that sure does sound right to me way better i was afraid i was gona catch fire for over load so the exciter pin will be #2 an pin one goes to dumy light ,

Jgonick said:

Original setup on 85 attached

Link- to wiring diagrams

Click to expand...

i do apreciate.thar diagram. that give.s.me some thing to look at .to reasure myself, ok i havent had a chance to go an play wit her i cut the 2 thick wires goin down an were connect to my thick wire goin to batter the 3 thiner wire i left hooked on was my igntion wire i suppose i not sure but i just askin an the 2 i cut oof i believe would ha another conected goin over intake to the alt, an that brown one is goin to pin? i get my self confuse fairly easy i surpised i even got this far lol i think i read in another place they ran the hot to the batter from alt then they ran hot to the starter an so on , i jus .curious always tryin to learn .some thing new but tommaro might be nice for me ti hit my drive way an work on this i do aprciate all of ya input on this believe me i listen to every one of ya thank u . in adavance

Ricko1966 said:

Now put all the wires back at the starter like you found them,2 of them were fusible links that provide all the power to the fuse box. Running all electrical loads to one source with a toggle switch is also a poor choice. As to wiring the alternator B+ goes to battery, terminal 1 goes to the the brown wire,that is the exciter wire,terminal 2 is voltage sensing wire which should go to the terminal block on the firewall,you could run it to battery + post it would be functional,but not as functional as factory. This is all from memory I will be double checking a couple of things,so check back later in case I need to edit. Okay,double checked,alternator wiring is correct.

Click to expand...

lol that sums it up i wonder why i couldnt get any fire inside lol i was eliminatein all the wire what be best ti use to.cover wires plastic tube shield , i just thought of some thing maybe that there heat shrink tubein they sale all size an colors maybe slip it in , i seen ssome. pretty clean.engines that dont have any wire where did they put it but thank u for all your in put also it does make sense .what u sayin i jusr didnt have any at that time lol

Couple things to consider.
You’re good to recognize the danger of a hot wired fuel pump. The way Rick said to wire it will eliminate it running with engine not spinning.
Another thing to remember is you don’t want to pull any significant amperage off of existing original vehicle wiring.

Any new loads that you wire up run completely new wiring and fuses.

The original wiring in these trucks is barely suitable for the original equipment.

Christine1985 said:

man .that sure does sound right to me way better i was afraid i was gona catch fire for over load so the exciter pin will be #2 an pin one goes to dumy light ,

Click to expand...

No. Terminal one is exciter/dash light. Terminal 2 is voltage sensing. Correct way would be Terminal block on firewall 2nd choice would be battery positive post,3rd choice would be run it to B+ on the alternator.

You absolutely need to take some strain off the factory wiring. In my opinion, it was under engineered from the factory. You HAVE TO use some relays. Amazon will sell you 10 relays for like $30. Fans, fuel, water pumps should all be wired direct to a battery (with a fuse) activated by a relay. At last count, I think I am over 20 relays on my K10 (which came stock with none). I added a second fuse box too to keep everything consolidated and looking professional.

I used this one. Gave me the option of 6 switched circuits and 5 hot circuits. One wire to the factory fuse box to an ignition auxiliary terminal activated all the relays with the key. Wire the positive of this box to the battery. Plenty of options

Gebildet 12V Fuse Relay Box with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D3H2YG68/

Also, for safety you need to add something like this to your fuel pump. It gives you a five second prime but more importantly it looks for a tach signal so it only sets power to the pump when the motor is turning.


Without it, your pump is going to be pumping fuel during a stall or even worse a crash and you are going to be sitting in a pool of liquid death.

On post 4 I told how to wire a fuel pump using the alternator as signal,this eliminates pump running if engine isn't turning. Cost about 10.00 if you need a prime function I know 3 ways to accomplish that. We can cross that bridge,if and when needed. Not bagging on anyone,just clarifying for anyone that needs to wire an electric fuel pump

Welcome from the FL Panhandle!