K5 K10 17x8 or 17x9 vision Cheyenne Aluminum rally wheels?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

TDoc

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2021
Posts
89
Reaction score
139
Location
Flagstaff, Arizona
First Name
Terrell
Truck Year
1979, 1986
Truck Model
K10, K5
Engine Size
400, 305
I have a 1979 K10 and a 1986 K5. I want to replace the wheels and tires on the K5. I'm going to go with a 17" wheel and 285/70/17 (33") tires. 17x8 0mm offset and 17x9 -12 offset are the same price. Both have the 108mm (4.25" center bore) So they will fit either truck. Which would you recommend? I'll probably run them without center caps or try and find a chevy or 4x4 sticker... Hubs stick through the fronts anyway. Not sure if i'm putting the new wheels on the K10 or K5...

17x8
17x9

You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
 
Last edited:

TDoc

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2021
Posts
89
Reaction score
139
Location
Flagstaff, Arizona
First Name
Terrell
Truck Year
1979, 1986
Truck Model
K10, K5
Engine Size
400, 305
You must be registered for see images attach


This guy put 18” on his truck. I’d have less rim and more tire but I have a 4x4.
 
Last edited:

Rustisbest

Super Access Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2021
Posts
254
Reaction score
725
Location
Athens, TN
First Name
Matt
Truck Year
1979
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
377

Grit dog

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Posts
7,278
Reaction score
12,912
Location
Auburn, Washington
First Name
Todd
Truck Year
1986, 1977
Truck Model
K20, C10
Engine Size
454, 350
Vision has the Cheyenne model. US Mags has a very similar alloy rally called Scottsdale. And the super expensive forged version of the Scottsdales as well.
I think you’re after the Cheyenne rims?
Regardless 8 or 9” will be fine with 285s. I’d prefer 8”. The real world difference is the 9” -12mm will stick out about 1” further if I did the basic head math correct. zero offset is basically stock stance I believe.

Regardless of which you choose, it will look awesome!
 

TDoc

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2021
Posts
89
Reaction score
139
Location
Flagstaff, Arizona
First Name
Terrell
Truck Year
1979, 1986
Truck Model
K10, K5
Engine Size
400, 305
Vision has the Cheyenne model. US Mags has a very similar alloy rally called Scottsdale. And the super expensive forged version of the Scottsdales as well.
I think you’re after the Cheyenne rims?
Regardless 8 or 9” will be fine with 285s. I’d prefer 8”. The real world difference is the 9” -12mm will stick out about 1” further if I did the basic head math correct. zero offset is basically stock stance I believe.

Regardless of which you choose, it will look awesome!

I wasn’t sure about them but seeing them on a truck with more tire I like them! I fixed thread title. The us mags Scottsdale only come in 20”+ sizes.

My k10 always wears the outer edge of the front tires more than the rest of the tire. Not terrible but noticeable. Toe is correct and alignment shop says that’s all they can adjust. I wonder if the 17x9 would help, hurt or no difference?
 

Grit dog

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Posts
7,278
Reaction score
12,912
Location
Auburn, Washington
First Name
Todd
Truck Year
1986, 1977
Truck Model
K20, C10
Engine Size
454, 350
I wasn’t sure about them but seeing them on a truck with more tire I like them! I fixed thread title. The us mags Scottsdale only come in 20”+ sizes.

My k10 always wears the outer edge of the front tires more than the rest of the tire. Not terrible but noticeable. Toe is correct and alignment shop says that’s all they can adjust. I wonder if the 17x9 would help, hurt or no difference?
Oh yeah they look awesome on trucks!
Regarding your tire wear, if your toe and camber is good, which it sounds like, then it’s quite likely the terrain you drive imo.
When we lived in the mountains and every day every vehicle was a commute on twisty winding roads and highways, the outsides always wore more than inside. And more front than rear tires (for obvious reasons). Heck with diligent rotations I could keep all 4 wearing the same then have them remounted outside in when the worst part was down 50% or so and get extra life out of them.
From your pics around Flagstaff I might presume you drive a lot of curvy highways and switchback roads.
 

TDoc

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2021
Posts
89
Reaction score
139
Location
Flagstaff, Arizona
First Name
Terrell
Truck Year
1979, 1986
Truck Model
K10, K5
Engine Size
400, 305

idahovette

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2016
Posts
7,443
Reaction score
16,350
Location
Weiser Idaho
First Name
Perry
Truck Year
1975-1979
Truck Model
K20-K10
Engine Size
350
Didn't get the whole post, BUT, your alignment shop is either lazy or they do NOT know how to align a 4wd Square Body! There are a couple of ways to make it right. Shims between the knuckle and the housing or offset bushings on the upper Ball Joints.......not cheap, but doable
 

carnutjw

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2024
Posts
25
Reaction score
110
Location
Evansville, IN, USA
First Name
John
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
R20 Suburban
Engine Size
454
You must be registered for see images attach


This guy put 20” on his truck. I’d have a lot less rim and more tire…
That video was the first time I saw those wheels. His are actually 18"x 9"-12mm offset w/285/60-18 tires. Perfect wheel/tire ratio to me.
 

Grit dog

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Posts
7,278
Reaction score
12,912
Location
Auburn, Washington
First Name
Todd
Truck Year
1986, 1977
Truck Model
K20, C10
Engine Size
454, 350
Didn't get the whole post, BUT, your alignment shop is either lazy or they do NOT know how to align a 4wd Square Body! There are a couple of ways to make it right. Shims between the knuckle and the housing or offset bushings on the upper Ball Joints.......not cheap, but doable
IF it actually has positive camber causing the wear.
Fairly unlikely in a straight axle truck. Even if bad ball joints, that usually shows as neg camber but could be either in a dynamic situation (while cornering). But that’s a ball joint problem.
Given he alluded to seeing the same condition on both front tires, not likely it’s a bent axle or other cause of positive camber causing the tire wear.
Before jumping to conclusions about conditions the OP hasn’t described, given his location, driving habits and the terrain seem to be a more likely cause imo.
 

Grit dog

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Posts
7,278
Reaction score
12,912
Location
Auburn, Washington
First Name
Todd
Truck Year
1986, 1977
Truck Model
K20, C10
Engine Size
454, 350
Best price I could find: $634 shipped after $50 discount for spending over $500.
Seems like a great deal to me! Interesting how some/many wheel prices seem to have come down in the last year or so. Must be the Rona shortages are over and supply has caught up or maybe passed demand (in general).
For that price I’d totally have a set of those beauties for my 77c10. (If I hadn’t bought them Halibrands cheap.)
 

idahovette

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2016
Posts
7,443
Reaction score
16,350
Location
Weiser Idaho
First Name
Perry
Truck Year
1975-1979
Truck Model
K20-K10
Engine Size
350
IF it actually has positive camber causing the wear.
Fairly unlikely in a straight axle truck. Even if bad ball joints, that usually shows as neg camber but could be either in a dynamic situation (while cornering). But that’s a ball joint problem.
Given he alluded to seeing the same condition on both front tires, not likely it’s a bent axle or other cause of positive camber causing the tire wear.
Before jumping to conclusions about conditions the OP hasn’t described, given his location, driving habits and the terrain seem to be a more likely cause imo.
If it's an original, these K series rigs came from the factory with a LOT of positive Camber......like 1 to 1 1/2 degrees! A common gripe was "my tires are wearing" and ALWAYS on the outsides! These solid axles were also pretty damn stout, they didn't bend unless Colt Siever was driving them! I saw this weekly, if not daily, when I was the "Alignment Technician" a the the local Chev-Cad dealership from 1969 to 1980. It's true toe is the most severe wear angle when wrong, but the Camber will do it also if left alone!
 

TDoc

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2021
Posts
89
Reaction score
139
Location
Flagstaff, Arizona
First Name
Terrell
Truck Year
1979, 1986
Truck Model
K10, K5
Engine Size
400, 305
Ball joints are tight. They were replaced years ago and truck has very low miles put on it as it’s a smiles per miles Sunday driver.

When I did ball joints years ago, I was hopeful that would fix the positive camber issue, but no change. I have not noticed this problem on my 86K5 blazer. I guess they fixed the positive camber issue by then?

It’s not like I’m going through tires because of it you just notice the outside wear on the front where the rears are square. Of course, I rotate occasionally to even out the wear.
 
Last edited:

Grit dog

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Posts
7,278
Reaction score
12,912
Location
Auburn, Washington
First Name
Todd
Truck Year
1986, 1977
Truck Model
K20, C10
Engine Size
454, 350
If it's an original, these K series rigs came from the factory with a LOT of positive Camber......like 1 to 1 1/2 degrees! A common gripe was "my tires are wearing" and ALWAYS on the outsides! These solid axles were also pretty damn stout, they didn't bend unless Colt Siever was driving them! I saw this weekly, if not daily, when I was the "Alignment Technician" a the the local Chev-Cad dealership from 1969 to 1980. It's true toe is the most severe wear angle when wrong, but the Camber will do it also if left alone!
Fair enough. I don’t have near the experience you do. I’ve just never seen that in straight axle GM pickups, was around quite a few back in the day. Did have a new 88 Ram W350 that had that issue right from the factory though.

But to your point, if that’s the case, a 1 degree positive camber is about 1/2” out of plumb or square for the tire. Very visible and obvious to the naked eye.
But until the OP provides a response or more info, we won’t know.
 

TDoc

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2021
Posts
89
Reaction score
139
Location
Flagstaff, Arizona
First Name
Terrell
Truck Year
1979, 1986
Truck Model
K10, K5
Engine Size
400, 305
Seems like a great deal to me! Interesting how some/many wheel prices seem to have come down in the last year or so. Must be the Rona shortages are over and supply has caught up or maybe passed demand (in general).
For that price I’d totally have a set of those beauties for my 77c10. (If I hadn’t bought them Halibrands cheap.)

These are a new offering within the past year from what I can gather. The few wheels I can find used that have a center bore that the 4 inch front hubs will clear are either dirt cheap and immediately sold or 10 inch wide which I don’t want or rusty 15” rallies for $400+ firm.

So far they haven’t charged me tax, which would add nearly 8 to 10% to the total price.

I like the Mag slots, but they are a lot more expensive.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
44,660
Posts
964,126
Members
37,258
Latest member
jBlzBDrgn
Top